any more 4" lifts?

[blakarm]

new boy. first post. woohoo.
just got meself 3.0 ssrx ltd. decided on 4" suspenders lift , with 33's.
Q; anybods do a cheaper kit than la st's? £1000!!!!!

p.s. i'll go for it if enough peeps say its worth it.

[KERRSURF]

thats a lot of money.

2" Body lift kit from Surfenstien around £90
LC springs from Milner off road £50
Procomp +2" or +3" around £40 per shock for rear
Warn manual hubs (saves the CV boots because of increased driveshaft angle) £150
Wind up the torsion bars (free)

Now wheels and tires are your choice, Silverline amongst others can do a decent wheel/tire package for around £580 like this, 15x10 black modulars with 33.12.5x15 mastercraft courser MT's


or you could use your own wheels and get tires from Camskill.

15" tires are cheaper than 16" and a bit more choice available.

[blakarm]

i was wanting to avoid lifting the body, with the associated auto shift probs and shifting radiator etc. plus i'd like the extra clearance the suspension lift alone would give me. (i can live with the reduced stability)
wheels, would ya believe, black modular is what i had i mind from day one, with 33 mud's of course.
fitting the kit.. no prob. got a mate with a garage builds rally cross cars. (got a thing about getting under the big bugger with the wheels off!)
it's just the cost of la's kit that chokes me. surely somebody else does one?

[sledge]

i was wanting to avoid lifting the body, with the associated auto shift probs and shifting radiator etc. plus i'd like the extra clearance the suspension lift alone would give me. (i can live with the reduced stability)
wheels, would ya believe, black modular is what i had i mind from day one, with 33 mud's of course.
fitting the kit.. no prob. got a mate with a garage builds rally cross cars. (got a thing about getting under the big bugger with the wheels off!)
it's just the cost of la's kit that chokes me. surely somebody else does one?

i've got a 2" body lift and a 2" sus lift. have not had any prob's with the auto lever and the rad did not need lifting.



http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=11&cid=165 do lift kits and i think some of the forum members to body kits

[yoshie]

i was wanting to avoid lifting the body, with the associated auto shift probs and shifting radiator etc. plus i'd like the extra clearance the suspension lift alone would give me. (i can live with the reduced stability)
wheels, would ya believe, black modular is what i had i mind from day one, with 33 mud's of course.
fitting the kit.. no prob. got a mate with a garage builds rally cross cars. (got a thing about getting under the big bugger with the wheels off!)
it's just the cost of la's kit that chokes me. surely somebody else does one?

What auto shift probs ? at worst some have to shave the 4x4 shift opening a few mm. I didn't have to.
3.0 does not need Rad moving only 2.4 and it simple task.
What extra clearance? 4" clearance is 4"

Here 2" body lift 3" suspension lift
£300 plus cost of manual hubs £150


A slide show of these great trucks at play

[blakarm]

sure i read somewhere on here that there could be problems with the shifter?
know i didnt imagine it. and definitely something about moving radiator. but is this only a problem on 2.4, and not 3?
if you lot have had no promblem with either, (and i have no reason to doubt you), then why are these things said elsewhere?
2" suspension lift raises EVERYTHING 2" (obviously) and 2" body lift, lifts body away from chassis. again, obvious. giving a total ground clearance of 2" extra.
4" suspension lift raises everything 4" giving a total of 4" extra clearance (as far as fuel tank etc is concerned.
or i'm really stupid and missed something somewhere?
can somebody straighten all this out for me?

[europa88]

sure i read somewhere on here that there could be problems with the shifter?
know i didnt imagine it. and definitely something about moving radiator. but is this only a problem on 2.4, and not 3?
if you lot have had no promblem with either, (and i have no reason to doubt you), then why are these things said elsewhere?
2" suspension lift raises EVERYTHING 2" (obviously) and 2" body lift, lifts body away from chassis. again, obvious. giving a total ground clearance of 2" extra.
4" suspension lift raises everything 4" giving a total of 4" extra clearance (as far as fuel tank etc is concerned.
or i'm really stupid and missed something somewhere?
can somebody straighten all this out for me?

2" suspension lift and 1.5" body lift. No shifter probs but I did have to adjust throttle and kick down cables as kick down wasn't working properly.Apparentley 2" lift can sometimes cause shifter probs but not always. Also dropped rad down by 1.5" so hoses lined up better too! Engine sits lower when body lift done on KZN130.

Btw, Lifts are really to allow you to fit larger diameter tyres without rubbing, thats where the ground clearance comes from.

[RodLeach]

sure i read somewhere on here that there could be problems with the shifter?
know i didnt imagine it. and definitely something about moving radiator. but is this only a problem on 2.4, and not 3?
if you lot have had no promblem with either, (and i have no reason to doubt you), then why are these things said elsewhere?
2" suspension lift raises EVERYTHING 2" (obviously) and 2" body lift, lifts body away from chassis. again, obvious. giving a total ground clearance of 2" extra.
4" suspension lift raises everything 4" giving a total of 4" extra clearance (as far as fuel tank etc is concerned.
or i'm really stupid and missed something somewhere?
can somebody straighten all this out for me?

Spot on pretty much mate!

The type of Kit La supertrux sell is a procomp stage 2 kit. Which is a bracket lift. It keeps stock angles on cv boots an wishbones aswell as trail arms etc.

It really is one of the only 'proper' lift kits.

On my truck ive fitted a 1.5" ball joint spacer which gives front lift. on top of that the torsion bars have been wound to give approx. 1.5" again.... so thats 3" on the front.

back was taken care of by some 2" spring spacers an some +2" lift springs.

That would be enough to get 33"s under the arches with some minimal trimming to mud flaps etc.

I had a 1.5" body lift on mine an went for larger tyres.




If your sticking to 33's then wind the torsion bars, get ball joint spacers, 2" spring spacers an +2" springs.

on top you'll want braided brake lines to avoid anything going tight an some manual hubs or your truck will eat cv boots!

hope that helps

[KERRSURF]

As stated above the only way to give the diffs extra ground clearance is bigger tires. the reason for doing suspension lift and body lift is to allow for clearance for these bigger tires and to give improved articulation.

[blakarm]

Btw, Lifts are really to allow you to fit larger diameter tyres without rubbing, thats where the ground clearance comes from.

yes, but... bigger suspension lift allows for bigger tyres for ground clearance (diff wise), with added clearance for fueltank etc.

what i'm trying to say is, body lift allows larger tyres, therefore, lifts everything by amount of extra tyre diameter.

suspension lift raises everything, bar diff, then tyres give extra diff clearance on top of that, yes?

[RodLeach]

As stated above the only way to give the diffs extra ground clearance is bigger tires. the reason for doing suspension lift and body lift is to allow for clearance for these bigger tires and to give improved articulation.

I think the guy was saying that with a full suspension lift the belly of the truck will be higher off the ground too...

[blakarm]

ahh! somebody gets my point. if i get the LA kit, think of all the money i'll save on cv boots.

[KERRSURF]

I think the guy was saying that with a full suspension lift the belly of the truck will be higher off the ground too...

That point wasn't lost on me.

[KERRSURF]

ahh! somebody gets my point. thats what i was after all along. but its going to cost me! if i get the LA kit, think of all the money i'll save on cv boots.

Looks like it will cost you plenty.

have fun.

[Apache]

Haven't read it all, but the only way to lift the lowest parts of the truck (diffs) are bigger wheels or portal axles. Yes Rod, the belly of the truck will be higher, the diffs will STILL get stuck on the high bit between ruts just the same as it will on a standard truck.

A large sus lift will give you more sus travel, except on the front where you're limited by wishbone length. 2" sus 2" body compared to 4" sus differences are largely academic. Both will perform about the same.

£1000 is flippin way expensive for 4", but 4" sus is hard to do properly on the Surf so probably involves a lot of moneys worth of bits. Personally, if I had £1000 with no other things to spend it on, I might go the way of dropped trailing arm mounts etc etc, but as I haven't, the cheap way offers better bang for the buck.

PS, a cheaper way to save CV boots is manual hubs.