homemade body lift kits

[RodLeach]

Im interesting in making my own body lift kit either 2" or 3".

What material would be best suited to making the blocks?

Cheers guys!


EDIT: Ok polyethylene

[The Lovely Boyo]

Agreed.

I woudn't go bigger than 2'' - you get into all sorts of mods needed to cope with 3'' body lift.

I've also wondered about the twisting moment that the bolts would be subjected to under very heavy breaking. As you go higher this force would increase considerably.

[surfenstein]

ive got a home made 3" lift kit and it seems to be fine at the moment.ive used black nylon material with an o/d of 60mm and upgraded the bolt size from 10mm to 12mm.

[marky]

ive got a home made 3" lift kit and it seems to be fine at the moment.ive used black nylon material with an o/d of 60mm and upgraded the bolt size from 10mm to 12mm.

Rolled up TIGHTS

[POPEYE]

Rolled up TIGHTS

Some of your old one no doubt,

[RodLeach]

hmm good points made by all! I was just thinking having a total of 5" lift would give it that more "agressive" stance!

How much more involved is it getting that extra inch from the body??

Mark did you find any problems with the gear selector with the 3" lift?

Ive read the fuel tube thing! will need checking incase its not long enough!

4crawler comes to serious money with shipping added and i dont want to disturb jotto while hes recovering so my only real option is sort one out myself

Would a pile of blu-tak suffice for lift material?

[POPEYE]

OK, from wot i know you'll need to cut and extend the steering shaft between the clamp bolts under the dash and the next one down, cut out some of the bulkhead where it passes through, cut and extend the shift levers
and cut out some metal from around the hi/low lever, replace the fuel filler tubes with longer ones, raise the bumper and lower the rad, any more than 2" i would replae the mount bolts with 12mm which means fileing out the bonded washers in the mounts and the spacers within the mounts, reposition the handbreak mounting (under the truck ) Vatch bent it a bit to take the "dogleg" out and give it a more straighter pull, there's enought "slack" in the break lines but keep an eye on everything (inc wireing harness) as your jacking it up, remove all the rubber dirt shields that fix between the inner wing and chassi in the engine bay, (i forgot them and $hit meself when one pinged off, I dare say someone will add summat i've forgotten

[RodLeach]

eek! I think i'll stick with 2" ! having to file out the mount holes to go up to a M12 seems like a lot of hardwork for an extra inch! At least it is for me! Alas im not as skilled as some *cough* MARK *cough*

[stormforce]

eek! I think i'll stick with 2" ! having to file out the mount holes to go up to a M12 seems like a lot of hardwork for an extra inch! At least it is for me! Alas im not as skilled as some *cough* MARK *cough*

just drill em out to 12mm its quicker and that extra inch makes all the difference so i've been told

[coolsv650]

OK, from wot i know you'll need to cut and extend the steering shaft between the clamp bolts under the dash and the next one down, cut out some of the bulkhead where it passes through, cut and extend the shift levers
and cut out some metal from around the hi/low lever, replace the fuel filler tubes with longer ones, raise the bumper and lower the rad, any more than 2" i would replae the mount bolts with 12mm which means fileing out the bonded washers in the mounts and the spacers within the mounts, reposition the handbreak mounting (under the truck ) Vatch bent it a bit to take the "dogleg" out and give it a more straighter pull, there's enought "slack" in the break lines but keep an eye on everything (inc wireing harness) as your jacking it up, remove all the rubber dirt shields that fix between the inner wing and chassi in the engine bay, (i forgot them and $hit meself when one pinged off, I dare say someone will add summat i've forgotten

A firend of mine had a 3" body lift, he also had to extend the rubber hose between the air cleaner and turbo. He complained that the autobox lever never showed the correct gear

[RodLeach]

just drill em out to 12mm its quicker and that extra inch makes all the difference so i've been told

Is there an easier way to achieve the extra inch via suspension? As i mentioned earlier (when they arrive) the rear will have coil spacers and tweaked on front via torsion bars!

[stormforce]

Is there an easier way to achieve the extra inch via suspension? As i mentioned earlier (when they arrive) the rear will have coil spacers and tweaked on front via torsion bars!

on the rear the only other way is to go for the bigger springs or bigger spacers.You will only be able to crank the front by 1.5" to prevent excesive wear on the cv's but you could over come that by getting diff spacers then you can crank the front a bit more.The other alternative on the front end will be to get ball joint spacers and then you could crank the torsion bars a bit more but i think you would still require the diff spacers tho to lift the front more that 1.5"

[Supertrux]

OK, from wot i know you'll need to cut and extend the steering shaft between the clamp bolts under the dash and the next one down, cut out some of the bulkhead where it passes through, cut and extend the shift levers
and cut out some metal from around the hi/low lever, replace the fuel filler tubes with longer ones, raise the bumper and lower the rad, any more than 2" i would replae the mount bolts with 12mm which means fileing out the bonded washers in the mounts and the spacers within the mounts, reposition the handbreak mounting (under the truck ) Vatch bent it a bit to take the "dogleg" out and give it a more straighter pull, there's enought "slack" in the break lines but keep an eye on everything (inc wireing harness) as your jacking it up, remove all the rubber dirt shields that fix between the inner wing and chassi in the engine bay, (i forgot them and $hit meself when one pinged off, I dare say someone will add summat i've forgotten

You can get a bolt in extension for the steering shaft on ebay Item number: 200084565248

[The Lovely Boyo]

Go for the 1.5'' body lift = really easy and cheap

LC springs, bj spacers, new shocks etc = 2 - 3'' suspension lift = fairly easy but not so cheap

To get the extra inch you are looking for fit 33'' tyres.

Also - and instant optical illusion lift is to remove your side steps (p1sses off your woman and your mother but looks great)

You may have noticed that big body lifts get complicated.

Ask TonyN whats on the front of the bullet - his suspension lift is the correct way to do it (not just cranking the bars)

[RodLeach]

Go for the 1.5'' body lift = really easy and cheap

LC springs, bj spacers, new shocks etc = 2 - 3'' suspension lift = fairly easy but not so cheap

To get the extra inch you are looking for fit 33'' tyres.

Also - and instant optical illusion lift is to remove your side steps (p1sses off your woman and your mother but looks great)

You may have noticed that big body lifts get complicated.

Ask TonyN whats on the front of the bullet - his suspension lift is the correct way to do it (not just cranking the bars)

Ive already ordered some coil spacers off 4crawler and planning on tweaking the bars to make it level, Ive found 1m of the plastic rod i need for £19.00 so im probably going to fab up my own 2" lift!

Ive already got my steps off looks so much better without them!
As soon as the coil spacers n body lift are installed im ordering 285/75r16 Kumho MT834's!

Ive already got a rooflight pod ordered! Should look amazing after the next few weeks work is finished!!