ATF / Gearbox oil cooler - FITTED!

[dirtydog]

Got round to fitting my oil cooler today - well chuffed with the results. Took a while including cleaning out all the salisbury mud from the rad and ditching the air con rad for the time being but all seems well

Its a good fit

@TonyN - its the pipe on the right mate and it missed the bucket by a mile!

[TonyN]

Good going mate, sorry couldn't get round to see you today, as I had a ton of jobs to do so went straight home from Keef's place.

[dirtydog]

Good going mate, sorry couldn't get round to see you today, as I had a ton of jobs to do so went straight home from Keef's place.

No worries mate - another time

[Chillitt]

what oil cooler did you use? i will have do this very soon...

[slim]

Got round to fitting my oil cooler today - well chuffed with the results. Took a while including cleaning out all the salisbury mud from the rad and ditching the air con rad for the time being but all seems well

Its a good fit

@TonyN - its the pipe on the right mate and it missed the bucket by a mile!

that looks complicated????????

[dirtydog]

what oil cooler did you use? i will have do this very soon...

its from a 1999 Range Rover V8 (i guess the 4.2). Fits a treat! Give a shout if you need a hand

[Chillitt]

cheers,i;ll probably need all the help i can get!

[Hilux]

Cooler

Hi Tim hope you dont mind me asking what problems did you have to put a cooler on, as we have a Surf that comes in for servicing and he says when towing a trailer with 12 canoes on after about 20mins driving all the fluid get pumped out of the front seal on the gearbox. But on driving normal or even at 70mph with no trailer no problems.

[dirtydog]

Hi Tim hope you dont mind me asking what problems did you have to put a cooler on, as we have a Surf that comes in for servicing and he says when towing a trailer with 12 canoes on after about 20mins driving all the fluid get pumped out of the front seal on the gearbox. But on driving normal or even at 70mph with no trailer no problems.

Only just seen the post - no problems really to speak of but on a long hill at high revs the temp still can go up, i think the rad is still blocked but no probs recently.

[mud skipper]

Only just seen the post - no problems really to speak of but on a long hill at high revs the temp still can go up, i think the rad is still blocked but no probs recently.

tim did you fit that in line ? and are you running a standard stat
im off with caravan tomorrow and im going to try it with out a stat if it fails then its a cooler on order..
john

[dirtydog]

tim did you fit that in line ? and are you running a standard stat
im off with caravan tomorrow and im going to try it with out a stat if it fails then its a cooler on order..
john

yes inline before the rad and i Havent touched the stat...

see Codlords site www.showmesome.info/hilux for a better write up

[TonyN]

tim did you fit that in line ? and are you running a standard stat
im off with caravan tomorrow and im going to try it with out a stat if it fails then its a cooler on order..
john

Do not run without a stat unless its an emergency, the stat regulates water flow through the rad, if you take it out, coolant flows to quick through the rad and doen't get get cooled properly, and the truck will overheat, especially at high revs when the pump is running fast.

A tranny cooler is usually the answer to high engine temps when towing, as when the tranny is working hard, the hot oil can reheat the coolant as it leaves the rad, so it re-enters the engine already hot, and just get hotter in the motor.

We did away with Jez's in-rad tranny cooler recently, fitted a manual rad and a B&M tranny cooler, and the engine runs about 10 deg cooler now when giving it stick or towing according to the temp I fitted for him after changing the head.

I'd either run a smaller aux cooler before the in-rad one, like I fitted for Predictable Bob'ss 3rd gen to lower temps a little before it enters the rad for peice of mind, or bypass the the rad completely and fit a dedicated stand alone cooler like the B&M Supercooler if your having serious trouble.

[mud skipper]

Do not run without a stat unless its an emergency, the stat regulates water flow through the rad, if you take it out, coolant flows to quick through the rad and doen't get get cooled properly, and the truck will overheat, especially at high revs when the pump is running fast.

A tranny cooler is usually the answer to high engine temps when towing, as when the tranny is working hard, the hot oil can reheat the coolant as it leaves the rad, so it re-enters the engine already hot, and just get hotter in the motor.

We did away with Jez's in-rad tranny cooler recently, fitted a manual rad and a B&M tranny cooler, and the engine runs about 10 deg cooler now when giving it stick or towing according to the temp I fitted for him after changing the head.

I'd either run a smaller aux cooler before the in-rad one, like I fitted for Predictable Bob'ss 3rd gen to lower temps a little before it enters the rad for peice of mind, or bypass the the rad completely and fit a dedicated stand alone cooler like the B&M Supercooler if your having serious trouble.

thanks tony.when everyone talks of over heating what kind of temp gauge needle postion are we talking mine goes to the end of the safe zone as there is no numerical indicator on the gauge i dont know if this is hot or not on my works vanthe gauge goes from 70' to 110'but runs between 80' to 95' depending,do u class overheating as well in the red
talking to people 89/90 reg surfs dont over heat are there heads different?
cheers john

[Jezware]

thanks tony.when everyone talks of over heating what kind of temp gauge needle postion are we talking mine goes to the end of the safe zone as there is no numerical indicator on the gauge i dont know if this is hot or not on my works vanthe gauge goes from 70' to 110'but runs between 80' to 95' depending,do u class overheating as well in the red
talking to people 89/90 reg surfs dont over heat are there heads different?
cheers john

I have a second temp guage which Tony fitted when replacing my head, it shows just how cr*p the standard guage is. The Toyota guage will sit at half way from 70' to 110' after 110' it will climb up quite quickly towards the red. I would have thought that anything over 110' is pushing it a bit. My car generally sits at 90' most the time, and will max out at 100' if really giving it some stick up hills.

I'd guess that the red line on the Toyota guage is gonna be close to 120', which is definately head cracking temps.

[TonyN]

thanks tony.when everyone talks of over heating what kind of temp gauge needle postion are we talking mine goes to the end of the safe zone as there is no numerical indicator on the gauge i dont know if this is hot or not on my works vanthe gauge goes from 70' to 110'but runs between 80' to 95' depending,do u class overheating as well in the red
talking to people 89/90 reg surfs dont over heat are there heads different?
cheers john

With a 2.4, anywhere near the red would scare me! We've had Linda's 3.0 just shy of the red a few times towing silly heavy trailers up hill, and its still OK, generally, I would expect car manuafureres to build a bit of leeway into the red zone on a guage, to cover themselves, but the 2.4's are different because of the head design.

PS, My old 89 had a cracked head when we bought it.

Jez, know what time your coming yet? Just gotta fit all the pulleys and belts.