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Surf 3rd gen front outer CV boot replacement

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  • Surf 3rd gen front outer CV boot replacement

    I just had my lower front passenger side ball joint collapse as I was backing out of parking space. There was a big bang and the car collapsed on to the tyre , lucky I was going about 1mph. I managed to replace the joint OK but noticed the CV boot was ripped open somehow, I ordered a replacement.
    I have removed the wheel and had expected it to be the same as a 2nd gen shaft , easy to remove. But this looks a lot more complicated, how easy is it to change? ?
    When I removed my old 2gen shaft I just jacked up the suspension till the shaft was level ,undone the 6 bolts to the dif box , removed the hub cap and the shaft retainer , then the whole shaft just pulled out from the back with a little wobbling about. This looks totally different there is no 6 bolts and it's out. Or is it easier than it looks!!!
    Das

  • #2
    Originally posted by heavyd1 View Post
    I just had my lower front passenger side ball joint collapse as I was backing out of parking space. There was a big bang and the car collapsed on to the tyre , lucky I was going about 1mph. I managed to replace the joint OK but noticed the CV boot was ripped open somehow, I ordered a replacement.
    I have removed the wheel and had expected it to be the same as a 2nd gen shaft , easy to remove. But this looks a lot more complicated, how easy is it to change? ?
    When I removed my old 2gen shaft I just jacked up the suspension till the shaft was level ,undone the 6 bolts to the dif box , removed the hub cap and the shaft retainer , then the whole shaft just pulled out from the back with a little wobbling about. This looks totally different there is no 6 bolts and it's out. Or is it easier than it looks!!!
    Das
    Lower ball joint failure is a dangerous weak-point on the 3rd Gen Surfs.

    I hope you replaced it with a genuine Toyota part, and did both sides. Ball joint failure could be fatal at speed. Also, replace the 8 bolts which hold them on, use threadlock and torque them up correctly.

    OK, to remove the driveshafts...

    Take a chisel and get the grease cap off the hub, undo the lock nut (35 mm, but I used my 36mm socket and it worked fine).

    Loosen the castle nut on the track rod end, back it off until it sits just above the stud, then hammer the track rod end out of the yoke on the ball joint.

    Undo the lower ball joint from the lower wishbone. Make sure all the tension has been taken out of the front strut.

    The steering knuckle spindle should now be free to move around.

    Now, with a crowbar, pry on the inner CV joint to get it out of the diff. This takes a bit of force but should not be too difficult. There are three flats on the inner CV joint which you can tap on with a drift, turning the CV joint to work it out of the diff.

    Once this is out, you should be able to move the spindle out and back and get the driveshaft out. If not, you'll need to undo the castle nut on the upper balljoint and hammer that out of the upper wishbone. But I don't think this is necessary.

    Good luck!
    http://eurasiaoverland.com/

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info , I have replaced the cv boot and the other sides lower ball joint , also purchased all 4 arb links and tie rod ends . I don't think they were genuine parts so I guess I'll be replacing them both again very soon.
      Cheers Daz

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