ATF trans cooler fitted - high temp showing with new gauges

[tweak'e]

A few degrees in an already marginal system under stress. Thats more than enough to account for a good many dead 1KN wouldn't you think?

absolutely. tho its not just the temp rise its the fact that its the cold water side of the engine. so in effect the trans cooler is removing some of the cooling ability of the water.
same thing with the oil cooler.

[Lewd Lux Lover]

It would have made more sense to make the cooler bigger and put it at the top of the rad maybe?. Its easy to put it at the bottom but as you say, you are putting energy back into a system at the point is 'should' be unloaded.

From what I can gather the ATF can run really warm in these boxes and thats going to affect the coolant temp. If the warning comes on at 110? 120? then you could easily be passing 100c ATF through the cold side of your rad for extended times in all kinds of situations.

This spells disaster if any part of your cooling system is struggling. Fan, rad, stat....so many stages that all have to be working right all the time to cope with the ATF bleed...
I think with the addition of an thermostatically controlled oil valve in the chain you can prevent over cooling of the ATF and retain a good circulation.

I am looking forward to seeing what temps we log when its all back together.

[shokenore]

My ATF cooler is external and separate to the rad, which it bypasses totally.
The inbuilt atf cooler has been flushed of atf fluid and is filled with coolant(in prep for a further mod)
My coolant temps run between 82-89' dropping to 87 when the aux fan cuts in.

A long slow drag up Dauntsey Banks and the coolant was at 87.
Booting the throttle at low speed gives the reassuring roar from the viscous fan.

[Lewd Lux Lover]

I dont have an electric AUX fan... just the viscous.

[shokenore]

I dont have an electric AUX fan... just the viscous.

Really ?

[Lewd Lux Lover]

yep. viscous fan with shroud, then rad then aircon rad then grill....

no aux. I dont know how its different but it seems there are a number of things different about the late model intercooler surfs...

Mind you thats not to say it shouldn't have one!!! and I dont know about it

[scubadog86]

Hot no issue with over heating ATF when driving on the motorway it doesn't even register on the gauge as it starts at 50c but once I do town driving or stop start it will rise and so far peaked at 75c then back on the open road will drop all the way down again, I'm just worried it's to cool

[shokenore]

If the box changes up/down ok then you will probably be ok.
The fact the oil gets warm in traffic ie changing up and down will help to reduce any condensation

The low oil temp when at speed is of no real issue.


However you are better having the oil and the coolant cooled separately especially if you are concerned with high coolant temperatures.

Ideally a separate thermostat controlled oil cooler is the best way to go.

[scubadog86]

Cheers fella

[Bogus]

If the box changes up/down ok then you will probably be ok.
The fact the oil gets warm in traffic ie changing up and down will help to reduce any condensation

The low oil temp when at speed is of no real issue.


However you are better having the oil and the coolant cooled separately especially if you are concerned with high coolant temperatures.

Ideally a separate thermostat controlled oil cooler is the best way to go.

Thats what I have and frankly im not sure it will make any odds, When your on the open road in lock up all the cooling is going on in the pan, your stat will stay shut and nothing goes through your add on cooler, If you had no stat and ATF was still going to the cooler I have a feeling the temp will not change much,

[shokenore]

I have the separate oil cooler set up on mine.

I monitored my temps today on a 30+ mile journey.
A mix of town and then motorway outbound and then the return leg was all country roads with a few hills thrown in.
What I have noticed is the coolant temperature is maintaining between an average of around 87-89 on the outbound with the highest temp seen whilst stationary at the end of the motorway slip road.
My coolant temps seem more constant without the prolonged high(er) temperatures than before the oil cooler was fitted.
I have also noticed that when the Aux fan does cut in, it does run for what seems a lot less than before the oil cooler was fitted.
Of course a lot of the above is anecdotal , as I have no actual figures for the before/after.

[Lewd Lux Lover]

Most of the time that is all we can ever ask for.

A bit less fan time and more stable ATF temps can only mean good things.

Do you know if you can take a reading from the OE temp sender? I wouldn't mind two gauages. One from the outward oil and one in the sump.

[shokenore]

I would use separate ones.
You can get something like this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gadgetpooluk..._bxgy_kh_img_y

As a cheap temporary way of seeing what temps you are running

bit of blu tak and stick 'em on the centre console feed the cable through a gap and voila cable tie for the outlet pipe sensor and duck tape for the sump sensor

A more permanent pod for them can be made by shaping a rattle can lid.....


I have a similar sized digital readout that I have mounted in the dash trim just above the central air vents, although mine is 12 v powered.
Time/ volts and temps in one handy unit.

[Lewd Lux Lover]

I wouldn't use that kinda kit to be honest. Its a bit ghetto fix for my liking. Ok if you just want to know what somethings doing just once but not all the time. Dont get me wrong, great for a cheap budget but not very accurate or responsive.
The gauges and sendors I am currently fitting are from Auber. The sender is being tapped into the sump.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=357

two of these and four senders.. boost, water temp, ATF temp and EGT.

What I mean is this..
The OE sender sends out a signal. Can this not be spliced into to give a reading to a gauge? It gets a good reading from the out going oil, do I not just need to know what resistence signal it sends out and get a matching gauge? Using the OE sender like this I could have two ATF temp readings from different areas on one screen with only one sender having to be installed.

I know its overkill but can it be done? Is the OEsender not just a K type?

[shokenore]

I did say cheap and temporary


However

Splicing into the oem sensors will effect their readings and may cause other issues with regards to the ecu's

If you are going for multiple inputs then I would use bluetooth sensors and and an app.


They have the accuracy required, its not like you are monitoring the cooling of radioactive rods it is only a diesel engine after all.