Smoky Engine

[ossie1971]

Hi
I know this topic has been done over and over but I'd appreciate some direct advice. I have a '96 3.0 diesel surf (Gen 3?) and, other than the thick black smoke under load, I love it. It starts first time every time and pulls really well. I get a smallish puff of black / dark grey smoke on start up but heavy acceleration looks like the aftermath of Hiroshima!

I am pretty much clueless when it comes to engines but want to try getting my hands dirty. I understand my first point should be to block off the EGR valve, I've looked at a few guides online but can't accurately identify what I should be cable tying - is there an idiot proof guide anywhere; something along the lines of pull off this pipe, bend it over etc..

Assuming either it's already been done (truck has been modified with lift kit, larger wheels etc. so it's entirely possible it's already done) or it doesn't improve things, what would be the next things to check? It was serviced just before I bought it and had new oil, oil filter and air filter.

If all else fails, any recommendations for trustworthy and reliable mechanics with a good knowledge of the surf in the Herts / North London area?

Thanks

[captain_chaos]

Does sound like EGR valve hasn't been banked off. Sorry but not sure how to do that on the 3ltr. However you need to look for something like this I guess http://toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/egr.htm

[Dobbslc]

I've recently done the egr valve on my 3rd gen.
I did it with two plates that a brought off a member here ages ago, I replaced the cylinder head and did it at the time so it was easy.
I think you can do it just by sealing off the vacuum pipe that opens it but if the valve is partially stuck open with soot it won't help.
Best to get some blanks and then block the pipe off.
I now get a small amount of back smoke out the exhaust on acceleration but that is what the egr is ment to stop so I'm not sure your problem will be fixed by this.
I'd rather the shite goes out the back than block up my intake manifold ' and it was quite full of soot (I reckon 20% reduction in internal diameter)

Just be glad you dont also own a Vauxhall Zafira! Jeez the grief I've had with that ###### things egr!!!

,

[ossie1971]

Thought I'd update this, mainly as I need some more advice!

I tried the ball bearing trick with the EGR with no improvement at all so I did a little googling for diesel specialists in Hertfordshire and came up with AutoLube in Letchworth. After a chat with the guys there I popped up on saturday and had the engine TerraCleaned.

Whilst it hasn't made too much of a difference to either the smokiness under acceleration or my emissions - still an MOT fail at 3.8 - it has made a huge difference to the performance of the engine, it feels much smoother with more pull.

The post treatment wash up from the mechanic concluded that I most likely had at least one dodgy diesel injector causing some over fuelling, it's booked in next weekend again so they can remove and send them away for inspection with a view to replacing any dodgy ones.

So my questions;
Is it better to replace all 4 in one go.
Is replacement a relatively straight forward job for a non mechanic - I have access to a reasonable set of spanners / sockets
Cost - garage reckon anywhere up to a couple of hundred per injector, is there anywhere you guys can recommend to get a set at a more palatable price, if so are there any specific brands / models I need for a 3.0 KZN

Thanks

[tashtego]

That's way too expensive, try DieselBob or similar companies which will refurbish your existing injectors for a lot less.
Cheers

[tashtego]

http://www.dieselbob.co.uk/injectors.aspx

Maybe send them an mail.

Cheers

[ossie1971]

http://www.dieselbob.co.uk/injectors.aspx

Maybe send them an mail.

Cheers

Brilliant, thanks. Will send an email now

[Dobbslc]

You can get refurbished injectors off eBay for much less than that.
£200 an injector is taking the ####!
It is possible to change them yourself but you need to dismantle a fair bit to reach them.
Intake manifold, air ducts, glowplug busbar I think, then the diesel pipes on the injectors themselves. Use new crush washers and seats.
Warm the engine first so the injectors come out easily and keep everything very very clean.

It's not rocket science but you need a decent set of tools and some knowhow.
Hell to save £800 it's worth having a go at anything.

[ossie1971]

Thanks all; to update I've had new injectors delivered from diesel bob and fitted by a local garage and it has only made a small improvement - still not enough to get it through it's MOT (which is due in 3 weeks!)

The EGR valve has now been blanked, the air filter checked ( I have a snorkel fitted and wanted to check that it wasn't restricting airflow)

All with little or no improvement to the smokiness. Any other things I need to check?

[Dobbslc]

Did you check if the egr was stuck open?
If it was then fixing it so it actually does re-circulate the exhaust gas might help in this case as the point of one of these things is to reduce emissions out the back of the car.
Other than that if it's black smoke and not blue it must be over fueling somehow.

[ossie1971]

Thanks, not sure if they've checked to see if it's stuck open.

The garage have just called me and said that, despite spending over 5 hours (for which they are not going to charge me ) checking, they have been unable to diagnose the issue as their equipment is aimed at diagnosing issues with newer engines.

So any recommendations for a hilux engine specialist? MOT is due in three weeks and currently won't pass so I'm happy to take it some distance to get it sorted

[BUSHWHACKER]

One of the correction resistors has gone bad would be my diagnosis.....

http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthrea...hlight=galooph

[ossie1971]

One of the correction resistors has gone bad would be my diagnosis.....

http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthrea...hlight=galooph

Interesting, is there a diagnostic tool that can be plugged in that would identify this is the cause? A quick google shows a new pump is around the £300 mark

[BUSHWHACKER]

£300?? I think you'll find thats the price of a secondhand fuel pump.

A multimeter is all you need to check the values of the correction resistors as shown in the link above.