Bearing between inner and outer wheel bearing?

[Sylux]

Guys, I'm about to order some stuff from RT to do the front discs, pads and bearings.

I figured I may as well do the bearings while I'm in there.

I've watched a few vids and read a load of stuff just to make sure I'm on the right tracks.

But I noticed in one of the vids there was a bearing removed (and replaced) that sat between the inner and outer wheels bearing (goes in from the front, before the outer bearing). But it's not on RT. Or at least I can't see it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8k5ubdk123o 6:25 taking out...9:20 popping it in.

I also don't see it on any exploded diagrams of the assembly (manuals etc).

What's people's thoughts on this?

Thanks

[NiftyNev]

There's only two bearings. Bearings consist of a cup and cone for each. He removes one cup only by the looks of it. You need to remove both (one from inner and one from outer of hub) and install the two new ones. Also looks like the cup has turned in the hub which is why it puts a few dimples in the hub to make the new cup a tighter fit. Always use the correct tool for the cup installation or a brass drift to avoid damage to the cups.

http://www.rbcbearings.com/tapered/t...components.jpg

Nev.

[Sylux]

Awesome, Nev

I was thinking it looked more like a ring.

Wonder why they're not included in the kit if they're important.

[NiftyNev]

Awesome, Nev

I was thinking it looked more like a ring.

Wonder why they're not included in the kit if they're important.

It is a ring, tapered on the inside. See the link I posted to a pic of this and the bearing? They are included with new bearings.

Nev.

[Sylux]

Agh...they're included? Awesome.

Yeah...I saw the pic, thanks. Just like other bearings I've used (inc tiny ones).

The vid just threw me when talking about them as "bearings".

I need to source the correct size tool for popping them in correctly, now.

Cheers

[NiftyNev]

I need to source the correct size tool for popping them in correctly, now.

A bit of brass rod about 1/2" diameter and about 6" to 8" long will do. Just work your way around it a bit at a time in a cross pattern until seated. Old ones can be knocked out with a steel punch. Just be sure to install them the right way round (narrow edge to outside) or you will not get them back out.

Nev.

[Sylux]

Thanks mate

I've just realised the images of the bearings (on RT) clearly show the cup!

*slaps his own face*

[Sylux]

Another q if I may.

RT have a 54mm box socket that is deeper than all the others I can find.

They say this is for the deeper Toyota hub nuts.

Fair enough...but I see no way of using it to torque up the nut. It's used using a bar.

Does anyone know of a deep nut that can be used with a 1/2" wrench etc?

Does anyone know if I definitely need the deep one as there are plenty on eBay that can be used with a torque wrench?

[andyverran]

Hi Sy,

You don't strictly need to torque a bearing up, tighten it while rotating the hub until you feel resistance in turning the hub, then back it of a fraction. They used to teach 1/8th of a turn, but I've always done much less as they bed in a bit anyway.

[Sylux]

I was looking into that way. Happy to do that if it's considered fine. Presumably doing away with the need for a spring scale too.

Starting to think I may as well replace dampers while I'm in doing the brakes and bearings. Adds to the cost, though

[Sylux]

Just bought:

02 Front Wheel Bearing Kit
01 54mm Hub Nut Spanner/Socket
02 Gasket front main hub
01 Front Disc & Pad Kit LN/KZN130 & 4Runner
02 Rancho RS5000 Front 2" Extended Shock

A nice chunk of stuff to get for the big jobs.

I'll buy the rear stuff soon and do it all in one weekend...fingers crossed.

[Albannach]

When I re-fit bearings, I tend to use the old shell, thin edge inwards, as a drift to fit the new one. The old shell can then be knocked back out leaving the new one in place.

I'd also be inclined to advise an amateur to fit, tighten, bed (however you want to say it), the bearing as per the manufacturers instructions; so you'll need a 54mm socket to do the job properly.

With experience, it's possible to fit the bearing properly (or as near to properly to not matter) but it's not sopmething that can be taught in a post and therefore I'd not advise it.

[Sylux]

Thanks for that

As above I did get the socket. I was just worried about torquing it up.

The only other tool I didn't have was a brass drift (which I now have on the way) but your idea is an excellent one. I'll not regret having a drift in the tool box, though.

That video really threw me calling it a bearing. I was thinking it was a ring but allowed it to fool me. Still, it's good that I questioned it.

Although I've not done a hub bearing in a long time (yeeeears)...I used to sell small, high speed ones (bearings) and I've fitted larger ones in big equatorial mounts. Different beast, yes, but I'm comfortable with doing the job. Looks like one for the OCDs amongst us.

Won't hurt to have a mechanic check the work afterwards, though.

Thanks to all of you for your help. Each one offering very good advice.

[NiftyNev]

I'd also be inclined to advise an amateur to fit, tighten, bed (however you want to say it), the bearing as per the manufacturers instructions; so you'll need a 54mm socket to do the job properly.

With experience, it's possible to fit the bearing properly (or as near to properly to not matter) but it's not sopmething that can be taught in a post and therefore I'd not advise it.

True. Tapered bearings need that feel which comes from experience. The other thing I will mention is packing the bearings. This needs to be done properly and also do not fill the hub with grease. If you do that the bearings will overheat.

Google videos for packing tapered bearings.

Nev.

[Sylux]

Ah...that much I can already do