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  • 4wd Problem (possibly transfer box)

    Firstly hi all, new to the forum.

    The truck is a '94 surf 3.0td manual. And the problem is I have no power going to the front wheels. Spent hours looking on here for possible problems and solutions so have narrowed it down a bit so here goes...

    When shifting into 4wd, both high and low, the light does not come on and drive does not engage. I read on here that bypassing the VSV going to the front axle to make it permanently engaged is one way to test the front, doing so and jacking the front passenger side shows it is in fact engaging so the problem is not there.

    While doing so, while the shifter is in both 4H and 4L, the front prop rotates, as these do not have a centre diff surly this should not happen? So my guess is the transfer box is not engaging. The 4wd is used often but not in the past few weeks so I am thinking the selector has possibly got stuck? And if so how do I inspect it and repair?

    Hope someone can help

  • #2
    Today I pulled the inspection plate off the transfer box locking pin and was a big gunky and stiff (pictured below) so was in need of an oil change and can now move as it should. And pushing it into position makes the light on the dash come on.

    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...2&l=d604cfb628

    but while doing so I shifted it into 4wd to check the bottom cog rotates, and it doesnt. I'm sure it should, and I can force it to turn, so I am guessing the solenoid it possibly burnt out rather than seized? That or its an electrical problem, if so which wires do I need to test in the plug and is there a way of testing the solenoid manually? At least now I know where the problem is and I can manually put it in 4wd if I need to.

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    • #3
      That looks like white grease to my eyes....I assume its meant to be oil? in which case, water in there making an emulsion?

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      • #4
        Ye its a browny cream so water mixing with the oil, the breather pipe on top of the transfer case had come off, just need to figure out what is preventing the solenoid from working

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        • #5
          Sounds like you have it under control.

          Hope you post what you find.

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          • #6
            only thing I'm unsure of is how to test the solenoid, ie which wires make it work if I give it 12v and wiring diagrams cook my head, so hoping someone who knows will see this. And trying to find a replacement most breakers will only sell the whole transfer box which seems an unneeded expense and effort with it being only like 4 bolts to get it off rather than the hundreds to get the t'case off

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Tombombvw View Post
              only thing I'm unsure of is how to test the solenoid, ie which wires make it work if I give it 12v and wiring diagrams cook my head, so hoping someone who knows will see this. And trying to find a replacement most breakers will only sell the whole transfer box which seems an unneeded expense and effort with it being only like 4 bolts to get it off rather than the hundreds to get the t'case off
              I'm the same with electricery....someone knowledgeable will be along shortly I'm sure...

              In defense of breakers, having been breaking mine up, selling some little bits isn't very cost effective (time and effort) and can render bigger more expensive parts unsellable, so I get where they're at with that.
              Last edited by andyverran; 1 July 2013, 21:06.

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              • #8
                testing

                I have been dealing with a similar problem only mine has been engaging but not returning.
                The way I tested that is by unplugging the connector and connecting 12V to the bottom two pins in the connector. I looks like a 6 pin connector but there are only 5 pins in there. It is the two by themselves that I used.

                I reversed the polarity to get it to go the other way.

                Test the same pins on the socket to see if there is 12V with the power on and 4WD selected. Take note of where you are starting from so that you can reassemble it in the same relative position to the spur gear as you started from.(This may be the problem I am dealing with at the moment).

                You can take the whole assembly off by removing the three 14mm bolts that hold it on. Unclip both electrical connectors and the rubber vent pipe. Probably no need if the motor is working ok.

                Your rod in the photo is in the disengaged position, when you get the whole assembly off you can try pushing the rod in and out. That is only grease you can see because there is no separate oil supply to those gears.

                On the other side of that assembly is a plate held on by 3 10mm bolts. Underneath it is a large disc that is wiped by 3 contacts attached to the removed plate.
                Make sure that there is no crud in there.

                Keep posting, between the two of us we may be able to sort these things out.

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                • #9
                  Ok brilliant just what I wanted to hear! Will pull it apart again and have a look and report back.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Tombombvw View Post
                    Ok brilliant just what I wanted to hear! Will pull it apart again and have a look and report back.
                    Gawd I hate it when people dont report back!

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