3rd gen cambelt change "How to" with pic's.

[KERRSURF]

Where did you get the bits from? I'm guessing Toyota dealer.

Is there any problems with getting these or is it just standard for the 3 litre engine?

Any idea on part numbers?

Roughtrax sell all the bits you need.

[KERRSURF]

I use a thick cable tie to hold the belt in position while I fit the idler, makes it easy. Pull pin on tensioner to push idler against belt and cut the cable tie.

Use a good sized broad cable tie so the new belt is not damaged and be careful hot to nick the belt cutting the tie.

Keep the tensioner pin, comes in handy if you ever need to remove the belt again. Just squeeze the tensioner in a vice and replace the pin.
If the tensioner has any play (if you can get it to move without a vice) then it needs replaced.

[Shalershasker]

Excellent write up Si, should be a sticky.

[Dobbslc]

This is a great help nice one Si.
I have just done my belt and all went well.
One thing I will say just to make it a bit clearer is that the crank pulley bolt is NOT one of the ones the timing belt runs on. Sounds obvious but I had to look twice for the right bolt to turn.
Also if you use a Toyota belt with the white lines on it they will line up when it's first installed but after a couple of engine revolutions it will start to "drift" around the pulley. This is ok and is because the two pulleys are different sizes, this is to stop the belt running on the same part of the pulley all the time and limits wear to the belt. Just make sure the notches all still line up.
Dobbs

[Mrs Thrifty]

is it fairly similar for a 2.4 LN130? can you leave the other belts and fan on? Thrifty is being sent out in the cold soon, im sure you can kep him out there a while

[si tate]

is it fairly similar for a 2.4 LN130? can you leave the other belts and fan on? Thrifty is being sent out in the cold soon, im sure you can kep him out there a while

I'm pretty sure the 2.4 is more difficult, mine takes half an hour, yours takes about half a day.

[wishbone]

Also if you use a Toyota belt with the white lines on it they will line up when it's first installed but after a couple of engine revolutions it will start to "drift" around the pulley. This is ok and is because the two pulleys are different sizes, this is to stop the belt running on the same part of the pulley all the time and limits wear to the belt. Just make sure the notches all still line up.
Dobbs

The pulleys are different sizes because the camshaft needs to turn at half the speed of the crank. Nothing to do with belt wear at all.

[Dobbslc]

It is also to reduce belt wear, it stops the same point on the belts & pulleys running together. I read this in a tech reveiw years ago.
I'm not sure how it's done but the 3.0 surf engine seems to have a seperate drive to the pump then onto the cam itself. They could have reduced the cam speed down in another way other than different size pulleys but they do this so you get a constant wear pattern around the belt.

[dazandcaz]

is it fairly similar for a 2.4 LN130? can you leave the other belts and fan on? Thrifty is being sent out in the cold soon, im sure you can kep him out there a while

The 2.4 is a right old pain by comparison. I did mine in the summer and changed the old rotten rad at the same time, this had the added bonus of giving me more room aswell. I also had to make a "tool" to hold the crank pulley while unbolting the crank bolt and if the pulley is being difficult he may need an harmonic puller.

[TonyN]

It is also to reduce belt wear, it stops the same point on the belts & pulleys running together. I read this in a tech reveiw years ago.
I'm not sure how it's done but the 3.0 surf engine seems to have a seperate drive to the pump then onto the cam itself. They could have reduced the cam speed down in another way other than different size pulleys but they do this so you get a constant wear pattern around the belt.

Errr, cam and pump pulleys are the same, or the timing wouldn't be right!

The line only works the first revolution cos of physics...

[Sylux]

Old thread (they all are, here)...but does this tutorial count for the 2nd gens, too?

I've a 3L TD (1KZTE) and I'm encouraged to have a go on the "far easier 3L" as I've just been quoted 2 hours labour and a parts price that's more expensive than the genuine Toyota kit. £215 all in when Roughtrax do the genuine kit for £100 and I could fit. Or ask another garage.

[muddle]

Yep

[Sylux]

Cool. Pics could do with some arrows as they're all very similar

Is the text above or below the pics?

[will.b]

How to with pictures

See post no. 11

[Sylux]

See post no. 11

Awesome! Pretty damn detailed

Just been quoted a great £58 for a garage to do it.

I'd have to buy a torque wrench if I was going to do it...and they're not far off that. Still...I do need one. Hmmm.