3rd gen cambelt change "How to" with pic's.

[si tate]

Tools you will need;

1x10mm socket with short extention arm.
1x10mm hex socket or 10mm Alan key.
1x22mm socket.
1x torque wrench
1x cambelt kit from roughtrax "optional"

NOTE: It is good practice to replace both pulley & tentioner when changing the cambelt.

First of all make sure the truck is in neutral & the hand brake is on.

Remove the 4 10mm bolts & 2 clips from the cam cover.

Using the 22mm socket turn the crank clockwise until you line the notch on the cam with the notch on the casting "TDC" & same goes for the crank & fuel pump notches.

NOTE: Never turn the engine using the cam sprocket or fuel pump.
If while turning the crank you encounter resistance, leave for 20 seconds while pressure releases & turn again.
Once you are happy that they are lined up you can then remove The tentioner "2x10mm bolts" & the belt will slide off with ease.


Now you can remove the idler pulley using the 10mm hex socket.


Fit the new tentioner & tighten to 7.8ft-lb or 9Nm but "DO NOT" pull the pin. Fit the new idler pulley & tighten to 25ft-lb or 34Nm.


Now slide the belt over the cam, idler pulley & fuel pump.


Push back on idler to take up the slack on the belt & double check all noches are in line. Once happy you can pull pin on tentioner.

One Final thing to do before putting cover on is to turn the belt 2 full revolutions "using the crank" to make sure all is in line & marks are still correct.

Start engine & have a quick look to make sure belt is running in line, once happy, switch off engine & replace cover.

JOB DONE.

IF I HAVE MISSED ANYTHING OR NEED TO EDIT ANY OF THE ABOVE PLEASE FEEL FREE TO MENTION IT AS THE BELT IS IMPORTANT AND I WOULDN'T WANT ANYBODY TO DAMAGE AN ENGINE DUE TO MY WRITE UP.

Thanks si.

[Hawaii]

Si

excellent write up - I've always been wary of doing the cambelt as getting it wrong can be a bit of a nightmare and I've always had mine done at local garage (charge 1 hour labour)

If it is this easy when mine is due again, I'll certainly be having a go myself

how long did the job take you

hawaii

[TonyN]

Using the 19mm socket turn the crank clockwise until you line the 2 White
marks on the cam pulley & the 2 White marks on the crank pulley with the White marks on the engine.

Just a quicky Si, the white marks are something someones painted on there last belt change, always align the pullys with the notches on the pulleys and block. Never trust someone's elses previous marks, use them to double check if you want, but thats all.

Apart from that. Good stuff.

Easy isn't it.

[si tate]

Just a quicky Si, the white marks are something someones painted on there last belt change, always align the pullys with the notches on the pulleys and block. Never trust someone's elses previous marks, use them to double check if you want, but thats all.

Apart from that. Good stuff.

Easy isn't it.

Thanks for the heads up mate & yes it's a piece of pi$$.

[si tate]

Si

excellent write up - I've always been wary of doing the cambelt as getting it wrong can be a bit of a nightmare and I've always had mine done at local garage (charge 1 hour labour)

If it is this easy when mine is due again, I'll certainly be having a go myself

how long did the job take you

hawaii

Hi alan, took me about an hour but now I've done one I recon about half an hour.
If you change yours give me a shout & I'll bob over, your not that far from me.


Still need to see you anyway.

[IanB2]

I did not realize you could leave the fan and everything else in place to do this, thanks for the writeup!

[si tate]

I did not realize you could leave the fan and everything else in place to do this, thanks for the writeup!

Is actually easier & quicker to change the cambelt than the other 3 belts.

[IanB2]

Is actually easier & quicker to change the cambelt than the other 3 belts.

It was early when I responded earlier, I just realized you don't have to touch the accesory belts, even better!

[si tate]

It was early when I responded earlier, I just realized you don't have to touch the accesory belts, even better!

I can pop over & do it for you if you fancy paying the air fare.

[IanB2]

I can pop over & do it for you if you fancy paying the air fare.

LOL! Appreciate the offer, but I doubt that will be necessary!

[will.b]

Sorry to be picky, but

If you did not use a 22mm socket, then you did not turn the crankshaft, but probably the fuel pump bolt instead. You were lucky not to shear anything. When I changed mine, I put the tensioner back on first, then the belt slipped on easily, then replace the idler wheel, simples
If using a belt with the white lines on, then it is even easier to double check the correct tension and placement of the belt with the marks on the fuel pump and camshaft.

Just found this on Internet, priceless!!
http://www.dieseltoyz.com/timing%20belt%20how%20to.html

[si tate]

If you did not use a 22mm socket, then you did not turn the crankshaft, but probably the fuel pump bolt instead. You were lucky not to shear anything. When I changed mine, I put the tensioner back on first, then the belt slipped on easily, then replace the idler wheel, simples
If using a belt with the white lines on, then it is even easier to double check the correct tension and placement of the belt with the marks on the fuel pump and camshaft.

Hi will, it was defiantly the crank I was turning & I thought it was a 19mm socket, im sure your right & im wrong so will go & edit.
Anyway I must agree that replacing the tentioner first is the better way to do it so I'll edit that bit as well.

Thanks si.

[Sir Plug]

Just for info, the 4.2 Landcruiser (diesel) is done the same way......just more room.

[Ambobeer]

Where did you get the bits from? I'm guessing Toyota dealer.

Is there any problems with getting these or is it just standard for the 3 litre engine?

Any idea on part numbers?

[will.b]

Read first post

As above