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  • brakes failed

    driving home from work today in the snow and ice in my 91 2.4 surf when i was coming to the end of a very icy back road i applied the brakes to slow down when suddenly the pedal dropped halfway and i was not slowing so applied more and the pedal went to the floor,it was at this point that the rear of the car decided to slide out.so i am sliding sideways towards a main road on ice with no brakes fortunately no cars where parked at the end of the road and the car slid to a stop on the line so i nursed the car home and had a look in fading light to see if i could see fluid anywhere and it looks like the drivers side rear is a bit wet but wont know for sure until i look in the morning(no more snow please)i am presuming that a metal pipe has burst as i dont think there are any rubber hoses on the rear.i see theres a compensator valve thing anyone know if that would fail dramatically also if i need a new metal pipe will i have to buy it from toyota as i have never had to buy one before,really need to get the car back on the road before snow arrives again too much xmas shopping still to do so any help and advice would be appreciated guys

  • #2
    one of my brake pipes sprung a leak this time last year.
    Top up fluid and have a look under the veh while somone pumps the pedal you should hear and see it squirting out from underneath somewhere.
    Say not always what you know, but always know what you say.

    My 4x4
    My choice
    Back off

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    • #3
      Under the driver's side, rear seat base is an inspection plate, remove this plate and check the brake lines where they're clipped to the chassis behind the fuel tank. They have been known to corrode and split in that area.

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      • #4
        My surf's brakes failed yesterday morning. Got it into the garage this morning and it's the brake lines where they go behind the fuel tank.

        My local garage are happy to fix it, but can't do it today as they're already too busy!

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        • #5
          ok i have had a look which was not easy had to drop the spare wheel and use a mirror to see the split pipe and its bad news as its almost impossible to get to and it runs from the compensator valve at the rear along the inside of the chassis then doglegs around a bit and comes back out along the chassis before dissapearing under the fuel tank and on to the brake servo,i presume this is one length or are there any joints between servo and rear valve.looks like i have to drop the fuel tank and somehow try to get to the bit that has split as it is where it sits on inside of chassis which bends round but both pipes look corroded at that point so would prob be better to change both(what a pain and its ###### snowing again)i wonder how much a garage would charge to do the pipes anyone had theres replaced.
          chastilian sell copper pipe by the length they put connectors on and you bend it yourself anyone used this before.

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          • #6
            I suggested you do this.........
            Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
            Under the driver's side, rear seat base is an inspection plate, remove this plate and check the brake lines where they're clipped to the chassis behind the fuel tank.


            And you did this.......?????

            [QUOTE=davidy2980;681995]ok i have had a look which was not easy had to drop the spare wheel and use a mirror to see the split pipe and its bad .............................. ....................QUOTE]

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            • #7
              Which suggests the OP shouldn't attempt the repair himself.

              Less than £100, for both pipes, in a garage.
              Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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              • #8
                Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
                Under the driver's side, rear seat base is an inspection plate, remove this plate and check the brake lines where they're clipped to the chassis behind the fuel tank. They have been known to corrode and split in that area.
                Yep! This is where mine went and it was a PITA to bend and clip it back along the chassis , unless you've got a lift of course.
                As stated, let a garage do it

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                • #9
                  hi guys i did remove the inspection plate like vince said(by the way love what you do with the lexsurfs they are a work of art and every surf should have your touch)and the pipes are corroded but that is not where they have split if you follow pipes along to the rear they curve in and around then out towards the rear wheel where the bend round inside of chassis(where the split is)then towards back of car to rear of wheel arch before bending back in again and going off to the rear valve compensator.but just looking at the state of them through the inspection plate tells me they both need doing so i have got a length of the copper pipe and will be attempting it tommorow,i only got one at the moment incase i got the length wrong hopefully i wont have to remove the fuel tank to feed the pipes through but if i do is there any movement in the filler neck because i could put it on a jack and lower the front a bit or move it towards the prop as i only need to get to the inside of the chassis.already a PITA had to drive to shop to get bits in a front wheel drive dodge in the snow and it was just slipping and spinning everywhere so need my 4x4 back on the road

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by davidy2980 View Post
                    hi guys i did remove the inspection plate like vince said(by the way love what you do with the lexsurfs they are a work of art and every surf should have your touch)and the pipes are corroded but that is not where they have split if you follow pipes along to the rear they curve in and around then out towards the rear wheel where the bend round inside of chassis(where the split is)then towards back of car to rear of wheel arch before bending back in again and going off to the rear valve compensator.but just looking at the state of them through the inspection plate tells me they both need doing so i have got a length of the copper pipe and will be attempting it tommorow,i only got one at the moment incase i got the length wrong hopefully i wont have to remove the fuel tank to feed the pipes through but if i do is there any movement in the filler neck because i could put it on a jack and lower the front a bit or move it towards the prop as i only need to get to the inside of the chassis.already a PITA had to drive to shop to get bits in a front wheel drive dodge in the snow and it was just slipping and spinning everywhere so need my 4x4 back on the road
                    I tried 4 times, but I honestly have no idea what that said...
                    Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Can't you just cut it off where you can get at it and re-route it along the chasis up out the way then just rejoin the two ends.............
                      Say not always what you know, but always know what you say.

                      My 4x4
                      My choice
                      Back off

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Koi View Post
                        Can't you just cut it off where you can get at it and re-route it along the chasis up out the way then just rejoin the two ends.............
                        same , just re route it along the chassis rails making sure u have some nice brackets that wont let it rub against the metal, done this on 2 surfs before
                        JAP4X4PART ¬ THE BIGGEST SURF BREAKER IN THE UK ¬

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Albannach View Post
                          Which suggests the OP shouldn't attempt the repair himself.

                          Less than £100, for both pipes, in a garage.

                          Which garage did it for that price???

                          Got mine fixed - 10 feet of brake pipe, £29.38, brake fluid, £4.69, 4 hpurs of labour and VAT and it came to a whopping £292.57

                          Oh well, at least I have a working Surf again should the snow return.....

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                          • #14
                            You've been done big style there, had mine done two years back and mot'd to boot, £120, dropped it at 8.30, picked up at 12 and I wasn't first in line either. H

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                            • #15
                              Wow! Thats a hellish high labour charge for 4 hours!! Thats £65 an hour!!
                              Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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