32" rubber, what does it take?

[clys]

Tried searching for the same topic, but no luck on this one. Will a 2.5" suspension lift be enough to fit 32" muds on 15" steelies?

If so, what are you guys doing to correct the camber induced on the front wheels during a suspension lift? Is there an adjustable camber bolt kit out there to correct the front camber?

Again, thanks a lot for any advice

[TonyN]

The front camber setting is on cams, you can still get it reasonable set with 1 1/2" or so of front lift on the torsion bars, any more than that some work, some don't.

The only correct way of keeping the camber right for bigger lifts is new lower wishbone/diff mounts that you get as part of a 4" lift.

Or make your own lower wishbones

I'd get the 32's, then lift it/cut inner arches to suit. It shouldn't take to much on standard wheels, bigger offsets need more clearancing on the bulkhead, usually achieved by cutting inner bit of mudflap, and then appying a BFH to the bulkhead seam.

[clys]

So are you saying 32" tires will fit with no lift? Or was you comment under the assumption of a 2.5" suspension lift?

[TonyN]

nah, you'll need a little, a small lift would probably do, ie, 1 1/2" or 2" body lift or 1 1/2" torsion bar lift.

You can't say yes or no, so much depends on wheel offset, actual size of tyre (different brands are different sizes, 32" is just a 'class' size, you find they vary lots between brands and tread type.)

I was saying the best way is to just get them, then fettle it to make them fit.

Where are you getitng 2.5" lift from, its not a normal size. 2" (its rarely that big, more like 1 1/2" if you want decent aligment) or 4" suspension lift, or 1- 1/2, 2, or 3" body lift.

[clys]

nah, you'll need a little, a small lift would probably do, ie, 1 1/2" or 2" body lift or 1 1/2" torsion bar lift.

You can't say yes or no, so much depends on wheel offset, actual size of tyre (different brands are different sizes, 32" is just a 'class' size, you find they vary lots between brands and tread type.)

I was saying the best way is to just get them, then fettle it to make them fit.

Where are you getitng 2.5" lift from, its not a normal size. 2" (its rarely that big, more like 1 1/2" if you want decent aligment) or 4" suspension lift, or 1- 1/2, 2, or 3" body lift.

Really I'm planning on running 305/70R16's on steelies with a lower offset to widen the stance and alleviate rubbing. I'm going off the OME website for the 2.5" lift.

Is there another company you'd suggest for a lift to fit the aforementioned tires Tony?

[TonyN]

We don't see much OME stuff over here, but the stuff i deal with is TJM who do a 40mm lift, or Procomp who do a 2" or 4" lift.

The trouble is due to front CV angles and short drive shafts and wishbones, anything more than 2" of lift on the front isn't very nice.

the Procomp (and others, lots of Yank lift systems, but all much the same) 4" lift relocates the whole front diff 4" lower, so all the alignment stuff is factory spec.

Getting 2.5" out of the front leaving the diff where it is tricky for tracking and wearing the steering stuff. Be insterested if OME are doing anything other than uprated T/bars and telling you to wind the front up that far.

I'd be looking at jacking the front up 1 1/2" or so, and 1" or 1-1/2 body lift if more needed.

You can lift the back more, to clear the rear bumper offroad with uprated springs and/or coil spacers. The limit on the back is the short radius arms, it tends to pull the axle forward, and the prop can rub on the fuel tank if you're not careful. The 4" lifts relocate all the radius arm mounts so the axle is in the right place.

but you're only getting 32's, you only really need 4 shocks and rear coils if the front torsion bars are in good nick. Unless you've got a winch and heavy bumper, or big heavy tyres and wheels thicker uprated torsion bars are often a little stiff for good flex offroad.

[clys]

We don't see much OME stuff over here, but the stuff i deal with is TJM who do a 40mm lift, or Procomp who do a 2" or 4" lift.

The trouble is due to front CV angles and short drive shafts and wishbones, anything more than 2" of lift on the front isn't very nice.

the Procomp (and others, lots of Yank lift systems, but all much the same) 4" lift relocates the whole front diff 4" lower, so all the alignment stuff is factory spec.

Getting 2.5" out of the front leaving the diff where it is tricky for tracking and wearing the steering stuff. Be insterested if OME are doing anything other than uprated T/bars and telling you to wind the front up that far.

I'd be looking at jacking the front up 1 1/2" or so, and 1" or 1-1/2 body lift if more needed.

You can lift the back more, to clear the rear bumper offroad with uprated springs and/or coil spacers. The limit on the back is the short radius arms, it tends to pull the axle forward, and the prop can rub on the fuel tank if you're not careful. The 4" lifts relocate all the radius arm mounts so the axle is in the right place.

but you're only getting 32's, you only really need 4 shocks and rear coils if the front torsion bars are in good nick. Unless you've got a winch and heavy bumper, or big heavy tyres and wheels thicker uprated torsion bars are often a little stiff for good flex offroad.

Thanks for the great advice Tony. The Hilux will be my daily driver, seeing primarily highways, but I still want a 32" tire (305/70R16 specifically) because I do occasionally venture into some thick mud and creeks.

The OME kit is actually only a 2" lift and includes:
-Front and rear shocks
-Rear coil springs
-Front torsion bars
-Front steering stabilizer

For $752 USD

or all the above without torsion bars for $574


Again, good road manners are a must as it will be a daily driver ON road.

Let me know what you think!

[stormforce]

To be honest i can't see thepoint of using the uprated torsion bars with a 2" lift unless there is a problem with the standard ones on the truck.I had the standard t/bars on my old 2nd gen and had 3-4" of suspension lift and the truck was well and truely abused on and off road.
IMO forget the t/bars

[TonyN]

Yea, thats what i was getting at, get them later if you find the front is bouncy or unpredicable after winding the T/bars up. Have only needed them once or twice on 'small' lifts like this.

They are quite expensive, spend the money on something else..

[clys]

Yea, thats what i was getting at, get them later if you find the front is bouncy or unpredicable after winding the T/bars up. Have only needed them once or twice on 'small' lifts like this.

They are quite expensive, spend the money on something else..

Thanks for the advice guys. So the general consensus is to go with the 2" suspension lift without torsion bars? Think that will be enough to stuff the 305/70R16's?

[TonyN]

Thanks for the advice guys. So the general consensus is to go with the 2" suspension lift without torsion bars? Think that will be enough to stuff the 305/70R16's?

If they are 32"ish x 10 or 11" then probably, I can't compare metric to imperial tyre sizes in my head!

Like I said at the start, it isn't an exact science, but assuming you have standardish offset wheels, a 2" lift should be ok, with maybe some minor rubbing on full stuff, but you can cut the mudflap and wheel arch liner, and the trim the bumper extensions if they do. You can also eek out a little more on the torsion bars, and even back the steering stops out a little to, if the rubbing bothers you.

Get em' on, try it, apply hammer. Job done.

[clys]

If they are 32"ish x 10 or 11" then probably, I can't compare metric to imperial tyre sizes in my head!

Like I said at the start, it isn't an exact science, but assuming you have standardish offset wheels, a 2" lift should be ok, with maybe some minor rubbing on full stuff, but you can cut the mudflap and wheel arch liner, and the trim the bumper extensions if they do. You can also eek out a little more on the torsion bars, and even back the steering stops out a little to, if the rubbing bothers you.

Get em' on, try it, apply hammer. Job done.

I will be importing a mint example, and will not be hammering anything haha, I'll trim the flaps if need be though.

a 305/70R16 translates into a 32.8" tall tire that is 12" wide, does that offer any help to fitment?

I think I'll do the 2" OME lift, with stock torsion bars, and just crank the front up a bit if it rubs bad. Should the rears fit no problem?

[TonyN]

Ah see, you changed the rules now...a 32" class tyre will generally be slightly smaller in reality, and only 11" wide, if your tyres are actually measuring 32.8 x 12" then you're in 33" tyre sized territory. 33x12.5 tyres need at least 4" of suspension lift, and I had to add 1 1/2" body as well to stop mine rubbing. But they are on big offset wheels.

I think you just need to bite the bullet and get them, or find someone who is running exactly the same wheel and tyre combo and see what they had to do to get them to fit. Or stick with 31's or 32's and 2" of lift for a little extra clearance and to look cooler.

There's not much more I can offer without repeating myself.

Good luck.

I will be importing a mint example, and will not be hammering anything haha, I'll trim the flaps if need be though.

a 305/70R16 translates into a 32.8" tall tire that is 12" wide, does that offer any help to fitment?

I think I'll do the 2" OME lift, with stock torsion bars, and just crank the front up a bit if it rubs bad. Should the rears fit no problem?

[clys]

Ah see, you changed the rules now...a 32" class tyre will generally be slightly smaller in reality, and only 11" wide, if your tyres are actually measuring 32.8 x 12" then you're in 33" tyre sized territory. 33x12.5 tyres need at least 4" of suspension lift, and I had to add 1 1/2" body as well to stop mine rubbing. But they are on big offset wheels.

I think you just need to bite the bullet and get them, or find someone who is running exactly the same wheel and tyre combo and see what they had to do to get them to fit. Or stick with 31's or 32's and 2" of lift for a little extra clearance and to look cooler.

There's not much more I can offer without repeating myself.

Good luck.

I agree, thanks Tony. Sledge is running that exact tire size on his KZN185 and said he's only got a 2" body lift?

[Wolfracer]

If I was writing a full reply, I would copy TonyN's text and paste it here. He is textbook, but I haven't experienced any rubbing he talks about...

I run 32x11.50r15's on mitsubishi rims. I have RT+ plus 2 springs and 2" coil spacers. Standard shocks have a little travel left and are fine for moderate off roading. Front springs are wound up to nearly max and I get "some" bounce. at slow speeds this is more noticeable, but can sit at legal speed limits and all is fine, just depends where you drive.
Needed wheel spacers to fit the 32's without rubbing, again all depends on your own offset.
My truck is nice and level, doesn't need anything else unless I want to do some SERIOUS off roading...

Fit em and mod to suit, tis the only way, there are too many variations for it to be an exact science. My 32's are only marginally bigger in height than the original 275/65/r16's!