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  • #16
    Mark, loosen the bolts down one side (not forgetting the front one!) then support the weight of one side of the body on stands, then do that side one block at a time. You should be able to lift it so the blocks will slide out without lifting the body excessively.

    Metallurgy isn't my field. Open question - what grade of bolt would you use here? A quality HT presumably?

    Also, get bolts with unthreaded length suitable for the length of the spacer so they're a nice snug fit in the spacer.

    Thinking out loud, would a better spacer design not be steel threaded from each end and a bolt threaded into the spacer from each end - perhaps even two bolts at each end? That would be a far more rigid setup than the typical 'both through' types you see, though not as easy to fit.
    Last edited by Apache; 13 April 2010, 10:08.
    Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Apache View Post
      Mark, loosen the bolts down one side (not forgetting the front one!) then support the weight of one side of the body on stands, then do that side one block at a time. You should be able to lift it so the blocks will slide out without lifting the body excessively.

      Metallurgy isn't my field. Open question - what grade of bolt would you use here? A quality HT presumably?

      Also, get bolts with unthreaded length suitable for the length of the spacer so they're a nice snug fit in the spacer.

      Thinking out loud, would a better spacer design not be steel threaded from each end and a bolt threaded into the spacer from each end - perhaps even two bolts at each end? That would be a far more rigid setup than the typical 'both through' types you see, though not as easy to fit.
      I really am open to all suggestion here. I bought the truck because all the fiddly stuff had been done, although it would appear that a few things still need sorting out........
      I am basically open to any advice from people who have done the 4" lift, with regards what are the best bolts to use and the best way of doing it.

      I will open a separate thread i think???

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      • #18
        Mark, can you please take a new pic (after you cleaned it) from the same angle, of the mounting in the first post. At the moment we're not comparing the same mountings.
        Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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        • #19
          Do the blocks have steel tubes inside them. If not then you will never stop them moving around because they will flex and compress. I don't have a body lift but all the Aussie guys recommend blocks with tubes inside even for 50mm lift.

          Nev

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          • #20
            Originally posted by NiftyNev View Post
            I don't have a body lift but all the Aussie guys recommend blocks with tubes inside even for 50mm lift.

            Nev
            Really? That sounds like asking for trouble to me Nev. The softer material will compress as you say - then the load is supported by a tube in the middle which can wobble around, which will lead to the bolt head / washer causing fatigue in the mount points on the body and chassis. It seems obvious to me that the taller you go, the more important an absolutely rigid, and large area load spread from the lift blocks is.

            I'd be interested in the logic behind it nonetheless.
            Last edited by Apache; 13 April 2010, 16:47.
            Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Apache View Post
              It seems obvious to me that the taller you go, the more important an absolutely rigid, and large area load spread from the lift blocks is.
              I agree but....... how would you have a ridgid mount from a block of soft material?

              Nev

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              • #22
                To be honest, this is not the start i wanted, for life with my new truck. Its not a huge problem, but i just want it to be right.
                Does anyone know any good specialist near the Chester area that might be able to run an expert eye over it and remidy problems discussed?

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                • #23
                  If it was my truck, I would sell the 4" blocks and reduce the bodylift to 2", sell the wheel arch extensions, and swap the 35" tyres for 33"s.
                  Could probably all be done without being out of pocket too.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
                    If it was my truck, I would sell the 4" blocks and reduce the bodylift to 2", sell the wheel arch extensions, and swap the 35" tyres for 33"s.
                    Could probably all be done without being out of pocket too.
                    I feel technically minded enough that i could do a drop to 2", but with regards what kit to use...... There seems to be lots of different opinion on what is the best kit to use. I obviously want something safe which isn't going to be the Pain in the Ar5e that the current one is!

                    It will pain me to sell the 35", but again, the rubbing is not something i would tollerate for too long, so would prob sell all 4, along with the alloys and buy some nice 33" with alloys.

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