LN130 Top end rebuild.

[chaz]

Hi everybody,
I am about to replace the head with a built up unit,which is the later uprated type. i have had no overheating issues, the camshaft is badly worn and chucked out a shim. oil pressure is ok and the cam seemed well lubricated.What i would like to know is it a straight swap as the book tells me that i need the right thickness of head gasket, (there are three) or is this when you do a bottom end rebuild as well? Any advice would be most welcome before i attack the beast.
This is my first post so i hope it is okay?
Chaz.

[stormforce]

Hi Chaz and welcome.
give Barry a shout at www.roughtrax4x4.com and have a chat with him.He will tell you the best gasket to get

[MattF]

Isn't just using the thickest of the three the failsafe if unsure method?

[chaz]

LN top-end rebuild

Thanks guys,
I will give barry a call if i get into a problem with the head gasket thickness. When i use to do mechanics in my younger years i seem to re-call the head gaskets were stamped so i wonder if this would give me a clue?. Anyway merrily stripping the beast down and finding this forum a huge help on info.
Thanks
Chaz.

[NiftyNev]

You will need to measure piston protrusion above the block and average out the measurement. Then use -

Piston protrusion above block -

0.68 - 0.77 Gasket B
0.77 - 0.87 Gasket D
0.88 - 0.97 Gasket F

Gasket thickness

1.40 - 1.50mm (B)
1.50 - 1.60mm (D)
1.60 - 1.70mm (F)

If nothing is being done to the head or block then it's ok to use the same thickness gasket that is already on there.


The gaskets have a cut-out mark, or "B", "D", or "F" on them for identification.

Nev

[chaz]

Ln top end rebuild

Cheers Nifty Nev,
That is exactly what i need, trust me to get the full gasket set first. Still i have a one in three chance of being right. "do i feel lucky"?
Chaz.

[chaz]

LN 130 top-end rebuild

Spent all weekend replacing the head, some bits are a doddle,hardest bit for me was the injection pipes at the pump,and the egr?pipe from exhaust to inlet which even when you undoe will not allow the manifold to pull off. so i just took the top two studs out,and slid it out, did the same on the exhaust manifold which remained in situ.Problems! dropped small spanner down oil return (idiot) got it out with teliscopic magnet phew!. Next tried turning it over with the socket after fitting cambelt, jammed at top dead centre, another panic, i forgot i had left it in gear with the handbrake on(idiot AGAIN) finally got to that magic moment, no fuel, forgot to connect pump electrical connector. Now turning over fine but still no start but plenty of white smoke, three out of four glow plugs naff. Ordered four new ones so she should fire up. Anyone know a good way to get the airlock out of the head prior to firing up, i was going to remove the thermostat for the start up and replace it afterwards. I did think of installing a bleed screw to the thermostat housing, basicly drilling a hole tap and die a thread and fitting a bleed bolt.
Or am i just crazy.

[GRASSMAN]

Hi Chaz,

That's not a bad idea, to bleed out the air.
noticed the timing marks on the fuel pump
are out put that right or you will have probs.

Hope this helps.

Gman.

[chaz]

LN 130 top-end rebuild

Thanks Gman,
That's a keen eye you have, thanks for the spot.The pump just would not set at top dead so i had to hold it in place while my son fitted the belt, timed to perfection now.Just waiting for the glow plugs to arrive and hopefully back surfing better than ever.

[chaz]

LN 130 top-end rebuild

Thanks to you guys and this brilliant forum.
SHE LIVES AGAIN. Runs sweet, all gauges normal, bled air via the temprature sensor with no problems.Next job driveshaft gater.