+2" Torsion bars vs. Cranked Originals?

[lord_flashart]

OK, so how do the +2" bars work? Are they actually longer and therefore give a greater lift with the bars wound to the same point as the originals or are they stronger so you can crank them in the same way as you would the standard ones just with less chance of snapping them?

As I don't do much off roading and even then it's pretty tame as it's also a family vehicle I was thinking of just cranking the front and then adding +2" spring tothe back and leaving everything else stock.

Would I be able to fit 33" tires with a 2" lift (so I can improve the MPG on long journeys mainly at the moment) and am I likely to top out the shocks and smash them to pieces? 2 very respectable and well talked about online shops say I can get away without new shocks but I thought I'd ask the experts and not let their names out in case they are wrong!


Cheers,

Ray.

[GRASSMAN]

Nah then Flash,

As per my other post, I adjusted the standard T bars, but
only by about 1 1/2" and not had any probs at all, +2"+20% at
the rear, no probs with topping out with the standard shocks, 33's,
I think, may require a body lift, (not sure here), but I've no doubt
someone will let us know sooner than later,
Hope this helps.

Gman.

[Scorpion]

33" tyres will require a body lift. I have a 2" suspension lift + 2" body lift + 20% stronger springs + torsion bars wound up and the tyres still rub on the inner arches on full lock!

I'd also like to point out that putting bigger tyres on will not improve your mpg, in fact it will make it slightly worse!

[dannyboy77]

Ray i have 2" suspension lift front and back and new shocks the on road handling is much better if thats what your after. the torsion bars are thicker therefore takes more load to twist and that gives you the suspension lift. i dont know if cranking them??

[lord_flashart]

Hi, thanks for the replies, I don't really have the £££s to spend on a full kit and wondered if I could get away without or whether I'd be missing out on something special!

As for the tyres, I guess the unsprung weight + increased gearing to the floor due to the tyre diameter would outweight any top end benefit unless I was doing 100 miles a day so I may up the tyre size in future if I have some cash to chuck about when these wear out but for the moment I guess I'll leave it.


Thanks anyway,


Ray.

[poppy986]

Cheapest way would be to fit uprated springs on the rear + 2"
a set of +2" pro comps dampers all round and just crank up
the torsion bars a bit ,get a set of aggresive 31's .
I believe that to go on to 33's you will need a 2" body lift as well
which all starts to get the wallet out a lot more ?
http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=139&vid=376
http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=139&vid=388


Chris

[an1mal_69]

I bought uprated 'ironman' bars from the states last yr, worked out ok then due to the exchange rate, not so now. Anyways, cranking the std bars a little is OK, but you change the properties of the spring, essentially by increasing the pre-load.

Uprated springs on the back are spot on, dont be tempted with the Land Cruiser ones, I tried these first, and the ride was awful, off road was worse with the rear crashing over the terrain. Surf uprated rear..great.

Bodylift, did this myself for around £25, took me 4-5hrs. Easy if your methodical, bit more work if its a 2.4 as i think you need the rad brackets, not so on the 3.0, well i didnt anyways.

[lord_flashart]

Yeah, I was thinking of the body lift but I thought there were steering and gearshift problems with a body lift? IE, steering not reachong and the gearshift being lower down and adding 2" to the length of it making the travel of the gear stick absolutely miles?

Apparently there are gear shift parts you can change to keep it the same height but then that's a lot of work I guess?

[an1mal_69]

yours isnt a manual is it..?? The lift posed no probs in the auto with regard to shifting gear.

now you mention it however, my steering was tight when id lifted the body, but no issue either, just undo the bolt in the UJ under the hood to release the tension, then tightened back up.