Hub Nut

[Guest]

Does anyone know off the top of their head what size the Hib nut on a 2nd Gen Surf is, need to go and buy a socket and don't want to get the wrong one.

Cheers

[NiftyNev]

Does anyone know off the top of their head what size the Hib nut on a 2nd Gen Surf is, need to go and buy a socket and don't want to get the wrong one.

Cheers

54 mm.Get a normal socket.I got an impact socket and had to get OD machined to fit inside hub.

Neville

[Guest]

54 mm.Get a normal socket.I got an impact socket and had to get OD machined to fit inside hub.

Neville

Thanks Neville.

It only really needs a standard socket anyway I think cos you only have to tighten it to 18lb/ft which even Halfords sockets should cope with.

Cheers

[fasteddie]

Thats presuming it comes off!!

[Guest]

Thats presuming it comes off!!

Hopefully, apart from that it's a big hammer and a lot of hope!!!.



Cheers

[NiftyNev]

Thanks Neville.

It only really needs a standard socket anyway I think cos you only have to tighten it to 18lb/ft which even Halfords sockets should cope with.

Cheers

Standard is fine.I only got impact socket because I could not get a standard one in 54mm at the time.****** expensive too and extra to have machined.

Are you doing bearings? If so 18lb/ft is ok for first nut and about 34lb/ft for lock nut.43lb/ft to preload and seat new bearings then turn hub back and forward three turns,slacken and set to 18lb/ft

Neville

[Guest]

Standard is fine.I only got impact socket because I could not get a standard one in 54mm at the time.****** expensive too and extra to have machined.

Are you doing bearings? If so 18lb/ft is ok for first nut and about 34lb/ft for lock nut.43lb/ft to preload and seat new bearings then turn hub back and forward three turns,slacken and set to 18lb/ft

Neville

Yeah it's actually Koi's front wheel bearings on his Surf but I'm going to provide the tools as I've a few more decent car bits places in Hemel. Also I'm going to want to strip and clean and regrease mine in the not too distant future.

Thanks for the sequence, the Max Ellery manual is a bit light on inof (like none) for the non manual locking hub Surf.

Cheers

[Elvz]

It's quite difficult to find the right socket for the front hub nuts. The best one is the Snap on ANS1900B which costs a very reasonable £18.00 but is ¾" Sq Drive so you also need an adaptor.

[Guest]

It's quite difficult to find the right socket for the front hub nuts. The best one is the Snap on ANS1900B which costs a very reasonable £18.00 but is ¾" Sq Drive so you also need an adaptor.

Thanks Elvz. Think I found a supplier, Taylor's Tools in Kings Langley.

Cheers

[TonyN]

Yeah, the snap on socket was the cheapest I could find that was deep enough to reach the nuts.

Personally, I tighten the wheel bearings by doing then up till you can just move the washer behind them with a screwdriver, put it down the side of the washer and twist to try and move the washer. When you can just move it without excessive effort, they are good to go. stake the inner washer, then do the outer nut up reasonably tight, stake it with another lug of the lock washer, and go and play.

Never seen a Toy that hasn't had the nuts done up with a screwdriver and hammer, so I usually use the same digs to save finding the socket.

Try to use a new lug on the locking washer, or buy a new one.

Officially, you put a Spring Balence (for weighing fish) on a wheel bolt to measure the drag from the bearing seal, then add this to the tighening figure and do the nut up pulling on the scales till the scales read this measurement.

[laser_jock99]

The correct size as others have stated is 54mm- I bought an Elora one for around £25 to tighten up my wheel bearings.

However- you can do the job without this expensive tool as Tony suggests. Because only minimal force is required to achieve the correct torque on the hub nut- you could do the "adjustment" with a hammer and center punch. In most cases the movement of the nut required is 1/2 a turn or so. If you do invest in the tool it's also handy for CV boot changes etc.

Another handy tool required for the job is custom ground small punch (I used an old screwdriver) to pop out the cone washers. It's a bit of puzzle when you first attemp this job, but get the idea. The nuts holding down the cone washers must be correctly torqued. Don't miss read the torque wrench like I did and shear two studs off- DOH!

Nevillef

[Koi]

The correct size as others have stated is 54mm- I bought an Elora one for around £25 to tighten up my wheel bearings.

However- you can do the job without this expensive tool as Tony suggests. Because only minimal force is required to achieve the correct torque on the hub nut- you could do the "adjustment" with a hammer and center punch. In most cases the movement of the nut required is 1/2 a turn or so. If you do invest in the tool it's also handy for CV boot changes etc.

Another handy tool required for the job is custom ground small punch (I used an old screwdriver) to pop out the cone washers. It's a bit of puzzle when you first attemp this job, but get the idea. The nuts holding down the cone washers must be correctly torqued. Don't miss read the torque wrench like I did and shear two studs off- DOH!

Nevillef

Cone washers came out fine, just kept tapping round the hub and they all popped out. Just need to make sure you don't loose them as they popped off with some zest.

[NiftyNev]

Yeah, the snap on socket was the cheapest I could find that was deep enough to reach the nuts.

Personally, I tighten the wheel bearings by doing then up till you can just move the washer behind them with a screwdriver, put it down the side of the washer and twist to try and move the washer. When you can just move it without excessive effort, they are good to go. stake the inner washer, then do the outer nut up reasonably tight, stake it with another lug of the lock washer, and go and play.

Never seen a Toy that hasn't had the nuts done up with a screwdriver and hammer, so I usually use the same digs to save finding the socket.

Try to use a new lug on the locking washer, or buy a new one.

Officially, you put a Spring Balence (for weighing fish) on a wheel bolt to measure the drag from the bearing seal, then add this to the tighening figure and do the nut up pulling on the scales till the scales read this measurement.

Hi Tony

Any way that works is the right way to do it.The above info for torque settings is from a Gregorys Manual.Even using a spring scale the manual states if correct reading cannot be achieved then slacken or tighten nuts until it is right.I still use a socket but not a torque wrench.I just adjust till it feels right.Have done a lot of bearings and it works for me.Just had to do them again today because of broken wheel studs.

Neville

[NiftyNev]

This is how I remove cone washers -

1 - Slacken dome nuts 2 - Screw a 8mm high tensile bolt (40 - 50mm) into each of the two threaded holes in flange until they are exerting pressure on the cone washers 3 - Slacken off the bolts and tap around flange close to dome washers with a brass drift and they usually pop out.Repeat steps 2 - 4 if needed.

Removing dome nuts and using the brass drift on end of studs also works.

Neville

[TonyN]

This is how I removed the cone washers....

1st time...


2nd and after times, see Nev's post above.