has anyone ever changed the front outer cv boots if so how long does it take and is it a hard job mine have both split and it has a dam mot this month.
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Try here :
http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...hp?t=62&page=2
or search "Replacing CV Boots"
There's always a Payback .... Ya won't never ever see it Comin !!!!Buncefield Burner
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did mine last week. its no problem with a bit of time. i'm not a mechanic. however, i have bought a proper 2.5 tonne trolley jack, 3 tonne axel stands etc, which are pretty much a pre-requisite when working on a 2 tonne lump.
I found the circlips impossible to do up on the small end of the boot, used cable ties there.
you might find the 6 bolts on the inner boot joint hard to undo. we used an extension bar on the spanner and slow boot pressure - they went 'bang' as they undid.
the write up linked to above was all the info we used to complete the job.
one last thing - its really REALLY important to get the axel horizontal, so you might have to wind the torsion bars down a bit as we did. they are controlled by a 21mm bolt half way along the chassis, about where the doors meet.
alow about 3 hours or so,. and expect to get very greasy!!!!If you're gonna be a bear... be a Grizzly.
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you dont need any big spanners, they are 14mm max I think, just need a bit of bar to extend them, not too long, about 8-10 inch max.
best to have two of you doing it, just to make things easier. We also put the steering lock on to lock the wheels in place on full lock, as that gave us that bit of extra room to manouver the bulky bits out of the hole.If you're gonna be a bear... be a Grizzly.
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A full cv boot change will take around 30 mins with practice, first time though just take your time, better to get it right and not break anything or hurt yourself.
Unbolting the bottom of the shock allows a lot more room to move driveshaft and removing a drive flange bolt makes is a doddle to get the tri-bearing cup away from the drive flange. The bolts in the flange are splined to prevent them turning but can be tapped out with a long bar and hammer and the correct size socket, use the nut to prevent the threads being damaged.
Another wee tip, once truck is safely jacked and propped you can use a spanner against the crossmember and a friend turning the road wheel to get the driveflange nuts loose, not much effort required and less chance of breaking something.Last edited by KERRSURF; 13 October 2008, 23:15.Alan
yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."
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Originally posted by KERRSURF View PostAnother wee tip, once truck is safely jacked and propped you can use a spanner against the crossmember and a friend turning the road wheel to get the driveflange nuts loose, not much effort required and less chance of breaking something.Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's
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Originally posted by Albannach View PostMy my! A nice wee mechanics tip there Alan... Remember to set the socket/spanner correctly first. If things are really bad, you can use extended bars on the whel nuts for uber purchase!Alan
yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."
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