Lower balljoint removal

[corsetts]

Flushed with my success at replacing both upper balljoints last week, I sauntered down to the local nuts and bolts specialist and pre-armed myself with the HT nuts and bolts to replace the lower balljoint.
Which, aren't of course needed on the lower one

Anyway, I remove the castlelated nut and vigorously set about the joint with the balljoint splitter and hammer.

Nothing

Ok, consult the manual. Turns out there's a warning. A larage warning written in bold instructing me to support the lower arm with a jack which must remain in place throughout.
Doesn't tell you why though. So, I assume its because the joint will violently fly apart once the balljoint is split. So, I support it and set about the balljoint with the splitter again and.......

Nothing.

Ok, this time I very gingerly release the smaller retaining nuts on top of the joint hoping that the lower arm will drop and enable me to get something else in to split the joint. Like a homemade bomb or the works Fiesta van but........

Nothing.

So, why does the arm need supporting? what will happen if I don't?

Do I need a larger balljonit splitter (mine is the tuning fork type and it tapers to about 20mm or so at a guess,) is it just not wide enough to split it or am I missing something?

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers

Chris

[davemaxx]

if you tighten or hammer the splitter in as much as you can and then hold a heavy hammer against the back of the joint housing, where the tapered shaft goes through, (but leave the castlated nut on the last few threads) then give the outher side of it a good wack with anouther heavy hammer, the housing will flex and the joint will pop out with a real bang.

can't remember why you need to support it, if the whole front end is jacked up. unless there on about the lower wishbone swinging down if you've disconnected the shock absorber, there is a detailed thread somewhere on hear because i followed it myself.

[bowella]

I have never replaced a lower balljoint on a Surf but I would hazzard a guess that you need to support the lower arm to avoid it heading downwards at great speed due to the tension on it from the torsion bar suddenly unwinding.
I may be totally wrong but that would be my take on it.
Hope this helps.
Regards, John.

[NiftyNev]

Torsion bar will not suddenly unwind. It's movement is restricted by the upper bump stop. Actually you want the lower arm to drop so you can remove the ball joint tapered shaft. If doing the lower place a block between upper arm and upper bump stop before jacking up. This will hold the upper arm in position and prevent torsion bar pushing down.

Nev

[corsetts]

Thanks for the replies fellas

Actually I gave up in the end and had to take it to the garage.

At one point they had it jacked up on the thread, 1 guy standing on the end of a huge crowbar whilst another beat it with a club hammer and it still wouldn't shift so I don't feel too bad about not being able to do it.

In the end, they repalced the nut a few turns and beat it from underneath whilst applying the crowbar and it finally gave in.

FWIW, there were no consquences from not supporting the arm, as said above. They jacked the hub to give enough clearance to get the balljoint out. I'm still none the wiser as to why that warning was in the manual, you'd never remove the joint with a jack under the lower arm.


Cheers

Chris