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How to Replace a Fuel Pump - LN130 '92

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  • How to Replace a Fuel Pump - LN130 '92

    Fuel Pump replacement on a '92 2.4 EFI LN130

    Denso 300 series pump from Toyota £220 inc VAT, as suggested on Aussie forums. The 300/A suggested by the Toyota parts desk is £1200 PLUS VAT.
    Tools used so far: 10mm 12mm and 17mm sockets (inc deep ones to get in a few places) and 10 and 12 mm spanners, plus pliers for the hose connectors.

    UPDATE: the 300 pump seems to werk very well in my particular vehicle.

    going to replace cam belt too, and also fuel filter primer head.

    The process:
    1) Remove cam belt cover.... hmmm..... first remove 3/4s of the engine!
    1.1) Remove the air intake pipe, air filter and housing
    1.2) Remove Right Side battery
    1.3) remove fan shroud
    1.4) try to remove fan
    1.4.1) file down $$$$ nut made of soft metal holding fan in place
    1.5) remove fan
    1.6) remove air con compressor and bracket to get to one of the cam cover bolts cunningly hidden behind the tensioner wheel bracket (WHY???)
    1.6.1) remove other battery in order to get to the air con bolts
    1.7) remove all water pipes anywhere near the cover
    1.8) remove all the belts
    1.9) scratch head and wonder how to remove the bottom cqam shaft pulley wheels in order to actually remove the cover. I think theres a 10 or 12 mm bolt in there, but I have yet to investigate.
    1.10) call it a day and have a beer.

    so far its taken me 3 hours to get all that out, so its gonna be a slow one this. Thought it would be useful to do the write-up here for others to see. Will take some photos tomoz.

    Advice required please:
    • Should I be in park or in gear with handbreak on when doing the cam belt?
    • How do I get those pulley wheels off?
    • Do I need any specialist tools to complete this job
    • Should I ditch the air con bits including the condenser, since it doesnt hold pressure anyway?
    • Should I just quietly brush all the bits under a carpet, hide the surf in the hedge, and go out and buy a new 3 litre?
    • WILL THE WIFE NOTICE??
    Last edited by legendgamesmaster; 31 July 2007, 10:10. Reason: update
    If you're gonna be a bear... be a Grizzly.

  • #2
    http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsit...timingbelt.pdf

    http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/fuelpump.htm

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by legendgamesmaster
      [*]Should I be in park or in gear with handbreak on when doing the cam belt?
      [*]Do I need any specialist tools to complete this job
      [*]Should I ditch the air con bits including the condenser, since it doesnt hold pressure anyway?
      1/ Dosn't make any difference with an Auto, if you have a manual, you won't be able to turn the crank if its in gear

      2/ Make/buy a proper hub puller for the crank pulley, using a normal 2 or 3 leg puller that goes over the end can break the glue holding the pulley together.

      3/ You need part of the bracket to hold the alt in place. But you can cut off the tensioner bit to let you get to the cambelt cover bolts in future. And losing the pump and air-con rad is a big help for access in the engine bay as well.
      4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

      Comment


      • #4
        hi vince, should have made it clear i've read those ta mate. just after any personal info on the subject to complement the oz stuff. TonyN has of course provided said detail.
        cheers all , in a very manly way of course, grrr.
        If you're gonna be a bear... be a Grizzly.

        Comment


        • #5
          a little more info?

          Originally posted by TonyN
          2/ Make/buy a proper hub puller for the crank pulley, using a normal 2 or 3 leg puller that goes over the end can break the glue holding the pulley together.
          Sorry to be a but i'm stuck.
          1) whats a 'proper' hub puller? is there a link to an image / description anywhere?
          2) To remove them what do I do? Do i need to undo anything else first or just pull em off? I am guessing that they are held in place with a nut / bolt in the centre of the shaft that protrudes from the middle? Ive removed the outer most pulley as it was held in by a few small screws, so Ive got that far at least! (to remind you, its a 2.4 '92 by the way)

          I will, of course, appreciate the reply.

          Andy
          If you're gonna be a bear... be a Grizzly.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by legendgamesmaster
            Sorry to be a but i'm stuck.
            1) whats a 'proper' hub puller? is there a link to an image / description anywhere?
            2) To remove them what do I do? Do i need to undo anything else first or just pull em off? I am guessing that they are held in place with a nut / bolt in the centre of the shaft that protrudes from the middle? Ive removed the outer most pulley as it was held in by a few small screws, so Ive got that far at least! (to remind you, its a 2.4 '92 by the way)

            I will, of course, appreciate the reply.

            Andy

            This type of pulley extractor.......

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by legendgamesmaster
              Fuel Pump replacement on a '92 2.4 EFI LN130
              [*]Should I be in park or in gear with handbreak on when doing the cam belt?[*]How do I get those pulley wheels off?[*]Do I need any specialist tools to complete this job[*]Should I ditch the air con bits including the condenser, since it doesnt hold pressure anyway?[*]Should I just quietly brush all the bits under a carpet, hide the surf in the hedge, and go out and buy a new 3 litre?[*]WILL THE WIFE NOTICE?? [/LIST]
              TonyN has covered 1-4

              5) Yes, why not
              6) Probably, but do you care?

              hope you have much better luck than I did, what a complete git to do
              Bring me the head of a treehugger

              Comment


              • #8
                She Lives!!!!

                Update of Fuel Pump Replacement.

                Well, the new cheaper option pump is back in, the new rad is in, topped up the ATF, burped the cooling.

                She fired up first time without a problem.

                Idled her for 20 mins whilst burping the cooling

                went for a run, SMOOOOOOOOOOOTH. The pump comes filled with some light oil, so this burnt off smelling really nasty, but when the Veggie Fuel came through, sweeeeeeeeeet!

                So Far, the 300 series pump seems to work really well. The truck is running way better than before, got great response, not sluggish any more.

                I can safely echo Pumb Bobs statement that changing the fuel pump is a Cucking Funt of a job though! But a great feeling of satisfaction.

                Managed to replace the rusty front bumper too, and removed the air con since it was not working and leaking gas from god-knows-where. All in all, a good result.
                If you're gonna be a bear... be a Grizzly.

                Comment


                • #9
                  sounds good at a fraction of the price
                  Tim
                  Break It,Fix It,Repeat,Break It,Fix It,Repeat

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Where is the other bolt located for the fuel pump on the 2.4l diesel engine i have pulled plastic cover off where cam belt is but canot find the other bolt to fuel pump can any 1 help?

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