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  • lower suspension ball joint

    How do i tighten the nut (n) in the pic, i have taken the pin out but the nut needs tightening as there is about a 1.5mm gap between it and the bit it should tighten on to. Whenever i turn it the whole thread turns, is there a way of stopping the thread turning that i can't see or am i being thick. This was the only thing it failed it's MOT on today not even any advisories, so gotta get this sorted in 10 days for a free partial retest

    Any help much appreciated, TIA Nero
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  • #2
    If its spinning on the taper you may have to give the upper bit a $$$$ with a hammer to lock the taper, or take it off and clean the taper so its free off oil.

    Try removing the nut and cleaning the thread, the nut shouldn't be tight on the thread.
    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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    • #3
      The choices so far then is try it with the weight of the truck sitting on it instead of jacked up, or hit it with a hammer,

      Tony i'm not quite sure what you mean mate, whichever way i turn the nut the whole thread just turns with it so I can't take it off or tighten it up. I can't see any way to lock it, but what's the bolt in the side of the joint do? (the one near the top of the pic next to where it says 433500(RH)?
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      • #4
        Originally posted by nero279
        The choices so far then is try it with the weight of the truck sitting on it instead of jacked up, or hit it with a hammer,

        Tony i'm not quite sure what you mean mate, whichever way i turn the nut the whole thread just turns with it so I can't take it off or tighten it up. I can't see any way to lock it, but what's the bolt in the side of the joint do? (the one near the top of the pic next to where it says 433500(RH)?

        Thats for fitting a grease nipple.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER
          Thats for fitting a grease nipple.
          I'll wait until i got the damn nut tightened before i chuck grease at it, i can't see it helping to keep it still
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          • #6
            Originally posted by nero279
            I'll wait until i got the damn nut tightened before i chuck grease at it, i can't see it helping to keep it still


            The weight of the truck on the wheel will hold it, the downside is it's more difficult to get at the nuts on the balljoint, but still achievable.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER
              The weight of the truck on the wheel will hold it, the downside is it's more difficult to get at the nuts on the balljoint, but still achievable.
              I'll give it a go and see what happens, then i can ring Mr. MOT man and ask for a green certificate instead of a red one
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              • #8
                Maybe the taper on the ball joint or in the control arm is worn from being loose for a long time. I'd be getting a new ball joint just in case there is damage to the old one and checking the fit to the control arm. A cold chisel will soon take care of the old nut.

                Nev

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                • #9
                  still can't move the nut without the thread spinning too, but rung the garage and they said it wasn't that that it failed on it was one of the mounting nuts, for the ball joint, they had tried to tighten it but couldn't. I went and had a look and sure enough one of the mounting bolts was about 4mm short of being tight, so i just tried to tighten it down again and sheared it off, funny thing is it seemed to be moving ok then just suddenly sheared, ah well booked in for next thursday, they gonna drill it out and replace the ball joint at the same time. Then do a free retest.
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                  • #10
                    I'd be getting them to double check all the other ball joints at the same time. Nasty things can happen when mounting bolts for things like this are loose.

                    Nev

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                    • #11
                      I will check the others. as soon as roughtrax opens i'll get this one ordered and it'll be on my todo list for when i get back from holiday to do all the front CV and balljoints.
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                      • #12
                        Does anyone know if it's the balljoint that contains the threads or the ?lower suspension arm? that it mounts to? obviously as it's got to be drilled out it would be easier if it was the balljoint which is being replaced anyway.
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                        • #13
                          Thread is on balljoint. Don't drill, no need to. Just split the nut. You could use a cold chisel, hacksaw or a nut splitter.

                          Nev

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by NiftyNev
                            Thread is on balljoint. Don't drill, no need to. Just split the nut. You could use a cold chisel, hacksaw or a nut splitter.

                            Nev
                            In that case, once the other nuts are off, the balljoint will lift out and i can just replace it and get new nuts, am i right in thinking it's the same as a mk4 pickup, the balljoint's the same part no. on roughtrax site and i've got the toyota part numbers for the bolts for a UK mk4 pickup off the EPC (90119-10832 for 1 & 90119-T0179 for a set of 4)

                            bugger, if that's the case i could do it myself but it's booked in now
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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by nero279
                              In that case, once the other nuts are off, the balljoint will lift out and i can just replace it and get new nuts
                              Yeah, sorry mate thought you were still talking about the ball joint stud. Just undo the remaining nuts.

                              Not sure about your part numbers though. Post Model and Frame numbers and I'll double check for you.

                              Nev

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