2nd Gen Clutch

[rob88]

My clutch is fine 90% of the time.

But sometimes it grinds when I put it in reverse.
It almost seems like the clutch is not fully disengaged - when I move the gear level I can feel the gears clipping each other.
And have to just ram the stick in.

Also, I'm sure the bite on the clutch gets lower and lower as I drive around town.

As far as I know, it's a hydroulic clutch, so maybe there is some air in the line or a dodge seal that allows pressure to escape.

When I leave it for a while the clutch seems to be fine again the next time I get in.

I've done a search on here, and the best suggestions seem to be to bleed the cutch, and then see if that fixes it.

I don't know how to bleed a clutch.
But, I want to learn.
Should I get a haines manual type thing, or can someone here explain it to me.
Cheers.

[drf-bro]

Hi rob88,

My Surf also makes the grinding noise when i engage the reverse gear, but i do not think there is anything to worry about, i've been driving my Surf like this for over 1 year and no problems relating to the gears have occured. Also, the other when i popped out to the shops i noticed another Surf that was reversing in a carpark and it to made the grinding noise.

Hope this is helpful,
Cheers
DRF-BRO

[Guest]

My clutch is fine 90% of the time.

But sometimes it grinds when I put it in reverse.
It almost seems like the clutch is not fully disengaged - when I move the gear level I can feel the gears clipping each other.
And have to just ram the stick in.

Also, I'm sure the bite on the clutch gets lower and lower as I drive around town.

As far as I know, it's a hydroulic clutch, so maybe there is some air in the line or a dodge seal that allows pressure to escape.

When I leave it for a while the clutch seems to be fine again the next time I get in.

I've done a search on here, and the best suggestions seem to be to bleed the cutch, and then see if that fixes it.

I don't know how to bleed a clutch.
But, I want to learn.
Should I get a haines manual type thing, or can someone here explain it to me.
Cheers.

Have a look here Rob

http://www.yotasurf.com/Hiluxsurf/bl...the_clutch.htm

Cheers

[NiftyNev]

A little grinding or difficulty in selecting reverse is quite normal.Reverse gear has not got syncro.It can be worse if selecting reverse quickly after using forward gears.

Neville

[rob88]

I explained the probelm to a bloke in a garege.

He said it might be old clutch/break fluid.

If the fluid gets old, or gets water in it, it loses efficiency as it is used.

So, if you push the clutch down 10 times in succession, each press will disngage the clutch less.
So, if you are driving round town, going in and out of gear, you may eventualy be changing gear without the clutch disengaging properly.

And, if you then put it into reverse to park, it sounds much worse because there's no syncromesh.


So, is this true, or am I being wound up.
Is this a Gangle oin flux capaciter bearing, or is it genuine.

Should I replace all the clutch fluid and see if it fixes the problem ?

[NiftyNev]

I explained the probelm to a bloke in a garege.

He said it might be old clutch/break fluid.

If the fluid gets old, or gets water in it, it loses efficiency as it is used.

So, if you push the clutch down 10 times in succession, each press will disngage the clutch less.
So, if you are driving round town, going in and out of gear, you may eventualy be changing gear without the clutch disengaging properly.

And, if you then put it into reverse to park, it sounds much worse because there's no syncromesh.


So, is this true, or am I being wound up.
Is this a Gangle oin flux capaciter bearing, or is it genuine.

Should I replace all the clutch fluid and see if it fixes the problem ?

Yes.Bleed the clutch.It may help a little if the fluid is old.Clutch and Brakes should be flushed with new fluid about every 2 years anyway.

Neville

[slydog]

yep

yea def change the fluid mate and give it a good bleeding out bet ya feel a difference

[phorbiuz]

Not sure if its relevant to the Surf but.....

On my old manual Sierra and my Vectra, when the clutch was getting a little worn (but still with plenty of life) I would get this. I found it helped a lot to select reverse if, at standstill, you selected 4th then reverse in one movement. I got the impression it was helping to align the cogs better. I rarely got the cunch/grind then.

[rob88]

Warning - Stupid Questions.

I read the article on bleeding the clutch - it was very good.


When I bleed will I change all the fluid anyway, or will I need to make sure I pump all the old fluid out before I add new fluid ?

Will it damage the clutch if I pump all the fluid out.

I don't know what fluid is in there, does it matter if I mix dot4 and dot5 fluid ?

The guide says to undo the bold, then do it back up.
I assume I have to undo it again before I can put the pipe in/on.
If so, why am I tightening it up ?

Are there any obvious mistakes to avoid.
Like forgetting to put the old filter back on when changing oil.

[Guest]

Warning - Stupid Questions.

I read the article on bleeding the clutch - it was very good.


When I bleed will I change all the fluid anyway, or will I need to make sure I pump all the old fluid out before I add new fluid ?

Not neccessarily but you can do it, just keep bleeding through until the fluid comes out looking clean, you will probably need at least 1 large can of fluid.

Will it damage the clutch if I pump all the fluid out.

No but you should always keep topping up while you are bleeding or you will cause yourself more problems in totally removing all the air. You shouldn't empty the master cylinder because of this.
I don't know what fluid is in there, does it matter if I mix dot4 and dot5 fluid ?

I am pretty sure that they are direct replacements however to make sure I wouldn't mix unless you are doing this in the process of a complete fluid replacement.

The guide says to undo the bold, then do it back up.
I assume I have to undo it again before I can put the pipe in/on.
If so, why am I tightening it up ?

Just to stop losing fluid until you are ready.
Are there any obvious mistakes to avoid.
Like forgetting to put the old filter back on when changing oil.

• Don't spill the fluid on the paint or in your eyes - it's as good as paint stripper.
  Don't let the Master cylinder empty, top up regularly during the process.
  Don't let the pipe outlet become exposed to the air - keep the end in the fluid to stop air being sucked back up on the return stroke, if in doubt close the bleed screw for the up stroke and open for the pumping.
  Remember to tighten the bleed screw afterwards.

Cheers
Andy

[NiftyNev]

rob88 Wrote -

"I don't know what fluid is in there, does it matter if I mix dot4 and dot5 fluid ?"

Correct me if I am wrong here.Dot 3 and Dot 4 are the same type of fluid but Dot 5 should not be mixed with these or used in older brake systems due to incompatibility with the type of seals used.

Neville

[andy]

What are the different types of brake fluid?
The U.S. Department of Transportation issues specifications for brake fluid. The three main types of brake fluid now available are DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5. DOT3 and DOT4 are glycol-based fluids, and DOT5 is silicon-based. The main difference is that DOT3 and DOT4 absorb water, while DOT5 doesn't. One of the important characteristics of brake fluid is its boiling point. Hydraulic systems rely on an incompressible fluid to transmit force. Liquids are generally incompressible while gases are compressible. If the brake fluid boils (becomes a gas), it will lose most of its ability to transmit force. This may partially or completely disable the brakes. To make matters worse, the only time you are likely to boil your brake fluid is during a period of prolonged braking, such a drive down a mountain -- certainly not the best time for brake failure! As a DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid absorbs water, its boiling point decreases. It can absorb water from the air, which is why you should avoid opening your car's brake fluid reservoir. For the same reason, you should always keep containers of brake fluid tightly sealed. DOT5 fluid does not absorb water. This means the boiling point will remain relatively stable, but it also means that any water that does get into your brake system will tend to form pure water pockets, which could cause brake corrosion. Two other important things about brake fluid: DOT3 and DOT4 eat paint, so don't spill it on your car. Also, none of the different types of brake fluid should be mixed. They can react badly with each other and corrode your brake system.

[rob88]

My mistake.

The article says dot3 or dot4.
I misrembered it.

I'l get dot3 or dot4, and not the dot5.

[NiftyNev]

Thanks Andy

I knew I had read info like this somewhere.

Neville

[munnaz_2003]

Hey,
I have exactly the same problem with my clutch, but recently it is near impossible to go into first and second gear as well and It never used to be like that.

Can someone send me a link to the 'bleeding the clutch' page because the one given previous doesn't work anymore.

Also did bleeding the clutch work?

Thanks
Munnaz