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I have finally replaced my starter motor contacts. I did the job yesterday and it took a total of five hours to do the job. Most of this time was spent trying to get the starter out, and cleaning it up and re-fitting the contacts. Re-fitting only takes an hour or so, but I am a perfectionist and like to take my time to make sure the job is done right first time. Here is how to do the job on a 3lt engine.
Jack up the truck using an axle stand to support the truck and remove the wheel and the rubber dirt shield from the inner wheel arch to enable easier access.
First, I recommend that you do some extra work to enable the starter to come out easier. Disconnect both live terminals from the batteries. Remove the fuel filter housing via the two bolts and move out of the way. Then using cable ties, tie all the wiring and hoses out of the way to make a hole for the starter to come out. Then un-plug the two electrical connectors that are above the starter. One of these is to the starter itself and needs to be un-plugged to enable starter to come out. Then remove the autobox dipstick, un-bolt the dipstick retaining bolt and pull the top pipe out from lower pipe, first un-clipping the big wiring loom. This makes more room to get your hands in.
Un-clip the starter motor electrical lead protector cap and using a 17mm ring spanner undo the nut and remove the cable.
Remove the two starter motor retaining nuts. The top nut is VERY hard to get at. You can only get two fingers on it, and a socket doesn't fit with the wrench attached. I used an 18" power bar with a 17mm short socket to break the tension. There isn't much room between the chassis and inner wing so this can be a bit of an ar*e to do. Once the nut tension has been broken you can use a 17mm ring spanner. Remove this nut first so that the weight of the starter doesn't hinder removal, as you can only use your two fingers to remove totally. Then remove bottom nut. The top is a threaded stud and nut and the bottom is a nut and bolt.
Slide the starter motor out. I found it easier to slide out from the wheel arch, then slide underneath and position the starter so that it's back end points up towards where the fuel filter is located. I tried removing from underneath, but found it impossible. (The starter is just too big to get out this way, hence why all the preparation in getting hoses etc cable tied out of the way) Then using the wheel to stand on grab the starter from under the bonnet and wriggle it up and out. This is where you will start swearing, as it is a basta*d.
Once out, clean the starter using a tin of electrical parts cleaner.
Undo the three bolts on the top cover where the starter contacts are located using an 8mm ring spanner. Carefully remove the cover (you will feel the plunger push the cover up as it has a spring on it) a remove the plunger. The contacts are now exposed. WARNING-There is a ball bearing located in the bottom of the shaft that the plunger sits in. Remove this by tipping upside down and put in a safe place.
Using the electrical parts cleaner, give the inside a good clean. Tip the starter upside down to remove the excess fluid. You will see the metal shavings from the contacts that are worn out flush away.
Using a 17mm ring spanner, remove the old contacts and place down in the order that they were removed so that you know how they go back. The two contacts are different. Remember to fit the paper sheet with the hole in where the old one has been removed. One contact has two outer nuts and washers, but the starter pack only has one set, so retain the first nut and washer for re-fitment. Once these have been replaced, clean the spring and ball bearing, replace the ball bearing in the bottom of the shaft and lightly grease the spring and slide over plunger rod and place into position. I gave the inside a light spray using Silicone spray to keep corrosion at bay. Carefully replace the cover making sure the gasket is in correct position and tighten the three bolts (do not over tighten)
Replacing the starter is a lot easier than removal. Just refit in the reverse order of removal. I used copper grease on the bolts on refitment to ease removal at a latter date.
I hope this helps anyone that needs to do their starter contacts. Remember, this if for the 3.0lt Engine.
She now starts like a dream, turns over faster and seems to be quieter.
Good Luck.
Andy
** Look in the GENERAL section for photo's of the job under a thread of the same heading **
Jack up the truck using an axle stand to support the truck and remove the wheel and the rubber dirt shield from the inner wheel arch to enable easier access.
First, I recommend that you do some extra work to enable the starter to come out easier. Disconnect both live terminals from the batteries. Remove the fuel filter housing via the two bolts and move out of the way. Then using cable ties, tie all the wiring and hoses out of the way to make a hole for the starter to come out. Then un-plug the two electrical connectors that are above the starter. One of these is to the starter itself and needs to be un-plugged to enable starter to come out. Then remove the autobox dipstick, un-bolt the dipstick retaining bolt and pull the top pipe out from lower pipe, first un-clipping the big wiring loom. This makes more room to get your hands in.
Un-clip the starter motor electrical lead protector cap and using a 17mm ring spanner undo the nut and remove the cable.
Remove the two starter motor retaining nuts. The top nut is VERY hard to get at. You can only get two fingers on it, and a socket doesn't fit with the wrench attached. I used an 18" power bar with a 17mm short socket to break the tension. There isn't much room between the chassis and inner wing so this can be a bit of an ar*e to do. Once the nut tension has been broken you can use a 17mm ring spanner. Remove this nut first so that the weight of the starter doesn't hinder removal, as you can only use your two fingers to remove totally. Then remove bottom nut. The top is a threaded stud and nut and the bottom is a nut and bolt.
Slide the starter motor out. I found it easier to slide out from the wheel arch, then slide underneath and position the starter so that it's back end points up towards where the fuel filter is located. I tried removing from underneath, but found it impossible. (The starter is just too big to get out this way, hence why all the preparation in getting hoses etc cable tied out of the way) Then using the wheel to stand on grab the starter from under the bonnet and wriggle it up and out. This is where you will start swearing, as it is a basta*d.
Once out, clean the starter using a tin of electrical parts cleaner.
Undo the three bolts on the top cover where the starter contacts are located using an 8mm ring spanner. Carefully remove the cover (you will feel the plunger push the cover up as it has a spring on it) a remove the plunger. The contacts are now exposed. WARNING-There is a ball bearing located in the bottom of the shaft that the plunger sits in. Remove this by tipping upside down and put in a safe place.
Using the electrical parts cleaner, give the inside a good clean. Tip the starter upside down to remove the excess fluid. You will see the metal shavings from the contacts that are worn out flush away.
Using a 17mm ring spanner, remove the old contacts and place down in the order that they were removed so that you know how they go back. The two contacts are different. Remember to fit the paper sheet with the hole in where the old one has been removed. One contact has two outer nuts and washers, but the starter pack only has one set, so retain the first nut and washer for re-fitment. Once these have been replaced, clean the spring and ball bearing, replace the ball bearing in the bottom of the shaft and lightly grease the spring and slide over plunger rod and place into position. I gave the inside a light spray using Silicone spray to keep corrosion at bay. Carefully replace the cover making sure the gasket is in correct position and tighten the three bolts (do not over tighten)
Replacing the starter is a lot easier than removal. Just refit in the reverse order of removal. I used copper grease on the bolts on refitment to ease removal at a latter date.
I hope this helps anyone that needs to do their starter contacts. Remember, this if for the 3.0lt Engine.
She now starts like a dream, turns over faster and seems to be quieter.
Good Luck.
Andy
** Look in the GENERAL section for photo's of the job under a thread of the same heading **
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