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  • rear window woes

    rear window started playing up

    when going up or down, there was a pause accompanied by whirring of motor,
    needed a helping hand to move it.

    pulled the sheilds off the tailgate, and investigated motor.
    seems the circlip had come adrift under the metal cover.
    teeth of motor worm gear fine, as was plastic cog of regulator.

    i glued the plastic cog and rubber/metal widget together.
    put new circlip on, which pinged off as metal clip point so worn...
    so put washer over it, and clipped sheild back on

    works for now..
    might change motor for one of back passenger windows as it is weak

    however, I have done search and people speak of 3 M8 bolts/nuts holding motor unit onto regulator - I cant see any on mine!
    motor has 2 screws clamping it to assembly, but looks like whole regulator has to come out to undo them, as they are aligned parallel to the window...

    anyone got any pics?
    Landcruiser Colorado
    Sub. Forester

  • #2
    Not sure what you mean by regulator. If you mean that the three bolts holding the motor/gearbox assembly onto the frame in the rear passenger door, then yes they do face against towards the door skin and are almost against the glass whilst down.

    I did the very same job at the weekend. the one in the tailgate was very easy to get out, as it had the sort of fixings that have a hex head as well as a slot. they aren't M8 though I seem to remember they were M5 with an 8mm head. anyway they came out and refitted very easily with a 1/4 drive 8mm socket on a very small ratchet (with the glass out and supprted). When you've got the tailgate one in you're hand it's all dead easy because the rear passenger door one is (in my car ) absolutely identical so you swap the whole gearbox/motor together and the screws are in the same place.

    To get the passenger door one out is a little trickier. on mine it did not have hexagon heads like the tailgate, it had those pan heads with a slot through the middle of a torx. once I borrowed a 1/4 drive torx bit to fit it was a 2 minute job however it is very tight - a 3/8th drive wouldnt fit it had to be the tiny 1/4 drive one. Obviously the window has to be up to do this, and once you remove the motor there is nothing keeping it that way. I secured it with a cable tie through one of the holes in the ratchet mechanism.

    Interestingly my tailgate has always been a bit slow and sticky. I greased it and cleaned it and saw little improvement. I checked out my old motor which seemed smooth and sound. So I figured it was just general wear on runners and rubbers and that a motor change would not work. however when the motor finaly failed and I swapped it for the door one I found it moved the window strongly and smoothly so obviously the buggers do wear our - I wish I'd swapped the things years ago now rather than all that waiting for the thing to creep up.

    Hope that helps, contact me if I can tell you anything else.

    Dave

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    • #3
      No picture of a tailgate motor but here's a drivers door one, it's an exact mirror image, so you get the idea
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        thanks for the pics and info Dave

        Thats good your pcitures show what i didnt realize, the whole cog system was same, thats the part falling apart on mine, due to circlips not staying clipped on shaft due to wear. Even new circlips wont stay there.

        However, I still cant figure out how you remove motor system from the tailgate - as there are no visible bolts when looking down on it, and must be fiddly removing from underside

        without removing whole regulator - what I mean by this is the whole mechanical assembly in the tailgate.
        Landcruiser Colorado
        Sub. Forester

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        • #5
          Are these any help?
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            ta bushwhacker

            I found some of those when searching, and have printed them and your pics out.

            i see now - the bolts are on underside. so either whole olot has to come out,
            or with some dexterity you can undo them in-situ?

            I glued the rubber/metal bit and white cogs back like you did
            but think i will swap with passenger door one, as main shaft loose and circlip not staying on.
            and i would rather have no rear passenger window working / or dodgy motor as sacrifice to back window
            Landcruiser Colorado
            Sub. Forester

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            • #7
              To get the motor out drop the tailgate, operate the locks on either side of the tailgate with a screwdriver. While supporting the glass, operate the the key in the lock until the glass is clear of the motor. Support the glass on the back of an old chair or one from the kitchen if the wife is not about! Unplug the power connector. Undo the three bolts from the underside with an 8mm ring spanner. It is a bit fiddly. I managed it with hands like bunches of bananas.
              It's only a hobby!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by kitesurf_phil
                Undo the three bolts from the underside with an 8mm ring spanner. .
                Just as Phil describes but with a 1/4 drive 8mm socket on a small ratchet and it's dead quick and easy.

                It really helps to be set up to do it this way when you want the rear passenger door one out. (but with the torx bit instead)

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Medieval Dave
                  Just as Phil describes but with a 1/4 drive 8mm socket on a small ratchet and it's dead quick and easy.

                  It really helps to be set up to do it this way when you want the rear passenger door one out. (but with the torx bit instead)
                  Once I have my fat mitts round the ratchet handle there is not much room!
                  It's only a hobby!

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                  • #10
                    I found it easiest to park my backside in the back with the
                    door and window up, and remove the bolts that way. Once
                    the panels are off the back door, you can feel the three bolts
                    on the far side, (facing the metal of the door), of the tailgate
                    mechanism. As mentioned, a small ratchet will fit in the space
                    available, or use a ring spanner. Worthwhile just replacing the
                    regulator if the motor is in good nick. (Which genius at Toyota
                    thought of calling a gear mechanism a regulator?).


                    Matt

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      thank you!!!!!!!!1

                      many thanks fellow surfers!!

                      job done this afternoon!

                      window running much better now.

                      lost my little ratchet drive a while ago, so fiddly to undo bolts in tailgate motor.
                      on back passenger door, i unbolted the motor regulator, so i could partially pull whole lot out of door skin, and then undo the torx screws.

                      cheers! help appreciated
                      Landcruiser Colorado
                      Sub. Forester

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        rear window for a change

                        hi all was wondering has anyone thought about replacing glass with a lift out or hinged bit of clear perspex or polycarb sheet, does not even have to be clear as long as it could be made secure.
                        Working at last.......

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                        • #13
                          Hehehe!! you need to talk to dirty dog about plastic rear windows!

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