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**TonyN** · 7 February 2006, 19:13

Its much simpler to pull the hose off the in side of the heater valve while the car is idling, this will prove water is getting to the matrix not air, then pull the out side of the matrix to prove water is getting out of the matrix.

I'd then run a hose though the heater matrix independantly, going in way them the other to get all the crud out of it. Water can still flow through some of the matrix even if its got a lot of crud in it, so you need to flush it properly, to get all the gunk out that you put in it after flushing the engine......

You'll only get 5 liters or so back in, unless you drain the block as well.

Get it nice and warm, cool down then check the level, then again while its cold for the next few days.

**hellmett** · 7 February 2006, 19:44

Re

The "in" pipe through the bulkhead to the matrix is "hot hot hot" and the "out" pipe is only "warm"!

Is this a sign that the airlock is in the matrix?

Is this an indication that the water is flowing in and out?

(The rear heater has never worked since I had it so I guess it is FULL of "unmovable" ****!)

When flushing the system with a hose etc. does this "whoosh" through the block as well, I'm asking this because I do not want to "mix" coolants but if it is only water left in the block then I will be less worried!

We live on a hill so I have done the refill and tried to remove the airlocks both facing up and down the hill with no help, does this have any relevance?

It's giving all the signs of being "normal" apart from the heater not working, static temperature guage etc. however I did notice that the radiator was only hot where the top pipe joins it and cool on the other side, (it is a recently reconditioned radiator!)

Which way does the water flow???

It's has all the signs and symptoms of an airlock, maybe at the matrix, maybe at the radiator, but I'm lost as to what to do to shift it apart from what I've been doing and what I've seen on the forum!

Do airlocks eventually work their way up to the radiator cap or do they end up elsewhere?

Gary

**Gizmo** · 7 February 2006, 20:53

I may be wrong or sound stupid here..and if so ignore.....but have you made sure that the back heater is open [ie on full hot]

**NiftyNev** · 8 February 2006, 00:24

As stated above make sure the heater controls are on hot. Do as Tony says and flush the heaters individually. If you get little water flow through them then they are possibly blocked rather than having an air lock.

Nev

**NiftyNev** · 8 February 2006, 00:38

Originally posted by hellmett

Do airlocks eventually work their way up to the radiator cap or do they end up elsewhere?

Gary

Sometimes they do. Sometimes they remain there causing problems. The bigger the air lock the more difficult for it to remove itself. I have checked cooling systems on a lot of vehicles and they are all slightly different. Some vehicles have a bleed screw or valve in a position which is the highest point of the cooling system. The heater hoses on the Surf are higher than the rad cap so this is why air gets trapped. A bleed valve positioned here would be a good modification. Someone on this forum has done this.

I checked one on an Aussie Commodore a while back and the guy had radiator work done a few weeks before. His simptoms were pressure and gurgling in the cooling system. I removed the cap and ran engine to get it hot. When the thermostat opened there was a reaction like a volcano going off as the air lock was released. I worked out that when the cooling system was refilled after the radiator work was done the heaters were not on to allow the air to escape.

Ne

**hellmett** · 8 February 2006, 19:11

Re

Update!

Righto, messy time!

Disconnected BOTH heater matrix's (???) and flushed them with a hose held on with hose clips!

YOU WANNA SEEN THE **** THAT CAME OUT!

Rusty, thick muddy water that stank like a pair of the wife's socks!

Both are running free and clean now!

Checked the metal pipes to rear matrix and one of them seems totally blocked solid, why are they metal?

1. How would I unclog this?

Have ordered new Rad Cap and Thermostat from Roughtrax so as soon as they arrive I will do a final coolant flush (chemical)!

2. Which is the best "pour in and run" cooling system cleaner to get?

After the chemical flush I will rinse etc. and refill with the 5 Year Long Life Red Coolant from Halfords! (approx. �16.00 for 5 litres, not bad!)

I also noticed that the Thermostat housing was a bit corroded etc. as well!

3. Is it ok to give this a rub down with some emery paper to clean it up a bit?

4. Do I need some kind of gasket etc. when I replace Thermostat, or is it just tighten up job!

Thanks for the help!

Gary

**Gizmo** · 8 February 2006, 20:39

There is a gasket from the thermostat [in the manuals it says this is no-reusable]

1.Thermostat in the Cylinder Block[install a new gasket to the thermostat] Install thermostat with the 'Jiggle' valve upwards
3. Install Water Inlet to Cylinder Block using three bolts [Torque 13N.m (130kgf-cm, 9ft.lbf] - Torque the Upper Two Bolts first
4. Fill back with coolant and do usual checks [levels, airlocks and so on]

Quoted from 1KZ-TE Manual [3.0]
EPC [KZN-130 Model - 1KZTE] shows gasket as No 16346

Helmett - edit you Signature to include the model of vehicle..it will help others provide correct info for your model

**hellmett** · 8 February 2006, 21:30

Re

Sorted!

Does this mean that Thermostat change is different for the 2.4 SSR-X LN130?

Gary

Vehicle Model Here (see below)

**hellmett** · 9 February 2006, 17:35

Re

Bump

**BUSHWHACKER** · 9 February 2006, 17:53

http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/wor...thermostat.htm

**hellmett** · 9 February 2006, 20:06

Re

Cheers Bushwhacker!

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