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  • Cold when Stationary-Warm when moving?

    My 95 3.0td Surf is new to me as of last week. It has 134a air con which I've just had re gassed and checked. It chills brilliantly when the car is stationary but once the car is moving the chilly air is soon replaced by tepid/ambient air - any ideas?

    the chap the air con garage suggested it might be the heater valve not shutting, but the lever moves in the car on on the valve itself, and I would have thought it would blow red--hot not just tepid.

    Its the model with air vent thingy inside on the roof, which I understand indicates it has quite a powerful air con unit?

    the guy who re-gassed it says the air con itself is working fine, holding pressure and doing everything it should - unless of course you drive the car along!!!

    Help me please, Yours
    "Cold when stationary, hot when moving"

  • #2
    Got exactly the same problem, have been told its the compressor, its worn and doesn't work at anything above idle.



    Originally posted by aldo
    My 95 3.0td Surf is new to me as of last week. It has 134a air con which I've just had re gassed and checked. It chills brilliantly when the car is stationary but once the car is moving the chilly air is soon replaced by tepid/ambient air - any ideas?

    the chap the air con garage suggested it might be the heater valve not shutting, but the lever moves in the car on on the valve itself, and I would have thought it would blow red--hot not just tepid.

    Its the model with air vent thingy inside on the roof, which I understand indicates it has quite a powerful air con unit?

    the guy who re-gassed it says the air con itself is working fine, holding pressure and doing everything it should - unless of course you drive the car along!!!

    Help me please, Yours
    "Cold when stationary, hot when moving"
    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

    Comment


    • #3
      I had the same... was told it was the expansion valve...(in fact tony N changed mine out!!) and it now works fine..

      The aircon man should be able to tell you - when the gauges atre attached to the aircon - if they go negative when it is running hard then the exp valve is not doing its thing...

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by chunkymonkey
        I had the same... was told it was the expansion valve...(in fact tony N changed mine out!!) and it now works fine..

        The aircon man should be able to tell you - when the gauges atre attached to the aircon - if they go negative when it is running hard then the exp valve is not doing its thing...
        Which is why I havn't changed the compressor on ours yet, cos your guy seemed a little more clued up!
        4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by chunkymonkey
          I had the same... was told it was the expansion valve...(in fact tony N changed mine out!!) and it now works fine..

          The aircon man should be able to tell you - when the gauges atre attached to the aircon - if they go negative when it is running hard then the exp valve is not doing its thing...
          I have checked with him and he says the gauges were all fine and doing what they should do under load and he doesnt think it's the expansion valve or the compressor???? he's convinced it's either the heater valve or the 'hot/cold' flap on the heater box not working. I`m getting out of my depth already!!!!!! Excuse my ignorance but is Tony N an air con guy and if so is he local to me in Surrey? (I see you're in Farnborough)

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TonyN
            Which is why I havn't changed the compressor on ours yet, cos your guy seemed a little more clued up!

            Sorry Tony, I could have asked you directly. Do you deal with air con repairs professionally?? If so, you're not a million miles from me!!

            The air con guy I used last week, is suggesting I by-pass the heater valve to see if that is the problem or check the flaps on the heater box. It just seems to me that if the hot was not being controlled properly then I would be getting hot air all the time. When in fact I can make the air hot or ambient, but only chill it when on tick over!!??

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by aldo
              Sorry Tony, I could have asked you directly. Do you deal with air con repairs professionally?? If so, you're not a million miles from me!!

              The air con guy I used last week, is suggesting I by-pass the heater valve to see if that is the problem or check the flaps on the heater box. It just seems to me that if the hot was not being controlled properly then I would be getting hot air all the time. When in fact I can make the air hot or ambient, but only chill it when on tick over!!??
              Nah, I can change parts of the system, but would rather a Air Con Pro actually troubleshoot your's first, and it needs degassing before removing anything.

              I got our's regassed in Reading, and he seemed an OK guy, but we have the same problem in our own truck as Chunky had, and the place he went to told him a completely different thing, which I changed for him and he had it regassed and its working fine. So I'm thinking his guy is a little more clued up than my aircon guy!

              You bypass the heater valve, or just hook a hose to it and make sure it shuts off OK.

              As for the internal air flaps, it will come out of somewhere, top or bottem even if the cable is broken, but just turning the fan on and trying all the positions will show if working.
              4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by TonyN
                Nah, I can change parts of the system, but would rather a Air Con Pro actually troubleshoot your's first, and it needs degassing before removing anything.

                I got our's regassed in Reading, and he seemed an OK guy, but we have the same problem in our own truck as Chunky had, and the place he went to told him a completely different thing, which I changed for him and he had it regassed and its working fine. So I'm thinking his guy is a little more clued up than my aircon guy!

                You bypass the heater valve, or just hook a hose to it and make sure it shuts off OK.

                As for the internal air flaps, it will come out of somewhere, top or bottem even if the cable is broken, but just turning the fan on and trying all the positions will show if working.
                -------------------------------------------------------------------------
                I've made a couple of calls this afternoon, and another aircon guy is suggesting it may be the compressor clutch?? He says it will mean replacing the compressor and this is likley to cost around £1000!!!! I get the feeling I could ask ten different aircon guys and get ten different answers. All of which sound expensive. I`ll try disconnecting the heater valve to see what that does. But I`m a bit pi--ed off as Aircon is really important to me ;o(

                Comment


                • #9
                  Internal or external air

                  This may seem a daft question especially as mine is a uk spec without air con, but i heard in aussie land that the A/C only works properly chilling when the slider next to the heater is on recurculate air and not external air as when driving on external air the A/C cont cool quick enough but when on internal recirculate it constantly cools the same air thus getting it cooler faster. I appreciate that aussie was between 35 & 40 deg C so i little warmer than here.
                  BEWARE OF THE REAPER

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Grimreeper
                    This may seem a daft question especially as mine is a uk spec without air con, but i heard in aussie land that the A/C only works properly chilling when the slider next to the heater is on recurculate air and not external air as when driving on external air the A/C cont cool quick enough but when on internal recirculate it constantly cools the same air thus getting it cooler faster. I appreciate that aussie was between 35 & 40 deg C so i little warmer than here.
                    Yeah, we only use recirc when the aircon is on.
                    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Phone 07747023202 - he is based in yateley (near farnborough) he is the bloke that sorted mine out. He also sorted truckarms. He is cheap as he does this as a sideline in the evenings/weekends etc. He also got me a discount on the parts too.

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                      • #12
                        Yeah he is a good guy, (if a little odd!!!) and is very clued up on what he is doing, but make sure you tell him what gas you have in your system and get him to bring it with him.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by truckarms
                          Yeah he is a good guy, (if a little odd!!!) and is very clued up on what he is doing, but make sure you tell him what gas you have in your system and get him to bring it with him.
                          Cheers Chaps, I`ll give him a call. I wont tell him about the forum in case he sees your (bracketed) comments!!!!!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            My Surf has the roof mounted airvent/light thingy in the back - does that mean it has air con in the back?? If so would that mean that the system would require a larger amount of gas? the air con guy you referered me to was suggesting that it may under gassed!!! the only data he had was for a Landcruiser (750g for single air con, but 1500g for a vehicle with rear air con!!) I`ve had 750g put into mine, so potentially I`m under gassed.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I don't know if i'm too late with this reply - But my 1994 3lt has the same fault. It doesn't seem to be anything that you guys have mentioned before. mine works fine when stationary - at any revs. as soon as the gear selector is move to anything other than P or N the clutch on the compressor disengages. as soon as you move the gear back to P or N it re-engages. I think this is an electrical fault.

                              It may be linked to the ECT PWR button to ensure you have all the power you need, but in my case it is faulty. Hope this helps. I am going to phone the garage today and hopefully they will have seen the fault before.

                              My email address is Thomas.a.jillard@holset.com if needed.

                              if this sounds familiar to anyone, then let me know how to fix it. It is easy to see if the clutch is on or not. I can explain if needed.

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