saggy ar*e

[colin timney]

after the langdale weekend it was brougt to my attention that the rear suspension was sagging has anybody got any suggestions on what type of spings to go for, i fancy a 2" lift, and how easy is it to do?
colin

[marky]

SAGGY ARSE i thought it was those pants you were wearing
Ive got milners 20% stronger on mine i think roughtrax or LA SUPERTRUX are the ones to ask but there are plenty of members on here who can advise

[Gizmo]

Thought your backside had gone up a little after loosing some weight dipping into that hole at Langdale ....oh sh*t we all heard you say...

Milners have 20% stronger, alongside Roughtrax and LA Supertrax I believe they do springs +2. Might need extra length brake lines and anything above may need altering the geometry of parts on the vehicle.


You've now caught the bug...once off-road and find your backside scraping you want evermore height!!!

[silvtr1000]

It's quite easy. My Milner ones are fine. Lots of guys on here are also happy with them. If I had more money, I might have gone for something else, but for £40 a pair, these can't be beat.

http://www.yotasurf.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=11059

Mark

[kitesurf_phil]

Milners 40% stronger ones will do the trick Colin. It will help when you do that ascent again at Langdale

[colin timney]

Milners 40% stronger ones will do the trick Colin. It will help when you do that ascent again at Langdale

if not i will have to get a roll cage!
colin

[Silversurfer]

after the langdale weekend it was brougt to my attention that the rear suspension was sagging has anybody got any suggestions on what type of spings to go for, i fancy a 2" lift, and how easy is it to do?
colin

Hi colin

Like most others who have posted I changed my rear springs to Milners 20% uprated to cure the 'saggy a**e' and the difference is well noticeable. The Toyota original springs are too soft and sag after a few years - mine were down 2" without any load in the back. As well as being stiffer the Milners springs will lift the back end back to where it should be.
I did the job myself and as long as you have a pair of axle stands, a few spanners and a half decent socket set it is easy to do. A trolley jack is best but the Surf jack will do. I posted how I did it as below.

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You need a pair of good axle stands and preferably a 2ton trolley jack (got mine 18mths ago from Halfords for £27 the lot) but can be done with the standard Surf jack - just takes a bit longer. You might need some sturdy blocks to put under the stands as the Surf needs to be quite high to get the axle low enough to drop the springs out without having to use spring compressors. Put the axle stands just ahead of the brackets on the chassis that take the axle tie rods for safety Once on the axle stands you will need the jack under the diff to support then lower/raise the back axle.
Once on the stands take the rear wheels off as it is much easier to get the springs out from the wheel arch side.
Undo the two roll bar link rods from the chassis - don't need to take the bar out, just undo the two rods and let them hang - best with two open end spanners.
Undo the shock absorber mounts, at the bottom only as you only need to move them clear and to allow the panhard rod fixing bolt to be removed.
Slacken off the panhard rod at the axle mounting (the rod that goes across the back of the axle) to allow a bit of movement and undo the end that bolts to the chassis and take the bolt out. The rod should then pull out of the chassis mount and just hang down.
Undo the bolts/clips that hold the brake pipe that runs along the back of the axle and the one on top of the diff that holds the tee-joint to the flexible brake pipe from the body. Make sure that the pipe is free to move - it just removes the risk of stretching the flexible pipe and allows the axle to be lowered a little more so spring compressors aren't needed.
Use the jack to gently lower the axle checking that the brake pipe is free to move and not snagged.
To get the springs out I found that the easiest way was to use a piece of wood about 4ft long that you can slide between the spring coils and rest on top of the brake drum to push the axle down just enough to allow the springs to drop out. There should be no danger of the springs flying out as they are now not under compression. There are rubber cushions at the top and bottom of each spring that will need to be re-fitted with the new springs. It is obvious how they fit as the springs are different at each end.
It is actually easier to fit the Milners springs in than to take the originals out as they are actually shorter than the original ones. They lift the back end of the truck back up by being much stiffer and not compressing so much under load.
Once the springs are in place use the jack to raise the axle back up and re-fit the panhard rod at the chassis end first then re-tighten the axle end.
Re-attach the bottom of the shock absorbers and re-fit the brake pipe bolts and clips. Finally re-fit the roll bar links, wheels and - job done.
It sounds a lot but it really did only take me an hour on my own and I'm no great expert.
The result with the new springs fitted is well worth the effort - Surf does not now roll on bends, handles much better and tows my wifes double horse box without dragging it's a**e along the floor.

[paulh]

I'd leave it Colin, if your back end had been any higher on that descent at Langdale it would have come right over the front

[colin timney]

I'd leave it Colin, if your back end had been any higher on that descent at Langdale it would have come right over the front

i think you are right paul,maybe a couple of spings on the roof might help
colin

[colin timney]

thanks for the info allan (silversurfer) i think i will take your advice and go for them springs and follow your detailed instructions
colin