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  • Help with Hub flange removal

    Can anyone tell me how to remove the plate with the 6 (I think) bolts and cone washers so that I can get on and replace my bronze bushes? I have tried putting bolts in the holes and tightening but they just sheared off! I am now down to using a chisel and hammer!

    Helps please.

  • #2
    There are 6 coned collets holding the plate on you need to tap near them so they pop out, Careful because they pop out at quite a speed & you may lose them.
    (\__/)
    (='.'=) SQUIRREL MUNCHER GRRRRRRR
    (")_(")

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    • #3
      So far so good

      Originally posted by marky
      There are 6 coned collets holding the plate on you need to tap near them so they pop out, Careful because they pop out at quite a speed & you may lose them.
      OK thanks. I got the flange off and I have found and removed the first bush. To get to the bush at the back of the hub do I need to undo and remove the bottom swivel joint to allow the drive shaft to be pulled through?

      If so is this under tension from the torsion bar?

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      • #4
        Never done that bit but i suspect you have to as to remove hub assy.
        No tension me thinks!
        (\__/)
        (='.'=) SQUIRREL MUNCHER GRRRRRRR
        (")_(")

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        • #5
          Seems like a bitch of a job

          Originally posted by marky
          Never done that bit but i suspect you have to as to remove hub assy.
          No tension me thinks!
          Havin trouble getting bottom ball joint undone at mo. I'm hoping that if I can get bottom ball joint off I can then swivel hub upwards and away from drive shaft so I can get at the inner bush. Wish Id soaked those ball jionts in WD overnight...

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          • #6
            would it be easier to remove top balljoint first ??
            (\__/)
            (='.'=) SQUIRREL MUNCHER GRRRRRRR
            (")_(")

            Comment


            • #7
              how is truck supported? when i split the ball joints to lift mine i had the tuck supported on the chassis, suspension at full droop, so the tosion bar tension was taken by the upper bump stops then used the toyota jack between the upper and lower A arms to put some load on the joints, after removing castellated nut, then wack (technical term) the side of the joint and it should separate. try to have some way of supporting the lower arm when it drops, especially if you're undoing the upper joint as the hub is a fair weight, i used blocks of wood about an inch below the arm on full droop.don't load up the toyota jack to much to start with but load up a little at a time and wack joint alternately.
              Diesel, like petrol only better

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              • #8
                Makin progress

                Originally posted by openback
                how is truck supported? when i split the ball joints to lift mine i had the tuck supported on the chassis, suspension at full droop, so the tosion bar tension was taken by the upper bump stops then used the toyota jack between the upper and lower A arms to put some load on the joints, after removing castellated nut, then wack (technical term) the side of the joint and it should separate. try to have some way of supporting the lower arm when it drops, especially if you're undoing the upper joint as the hub is a fair weight, i used blocks of wood about an inch below the arm on full droop.don't load up the toyota jack to much to start with but load up a little at a time and wack joint alternately.
                Thanks for that. I did one outside bush then High Command wanted to go shoppin. So I put it back together. I'll try again tomorrow

                Comment


                • #9
                  You don't need to undo the ball joint, unbolt the inner end of the drive shaft, undo the bottem end of the shock and pull it out the way, then put a jack indo the lower wishbone balljoint and take the weight of the car, with a bit of wiggling (the diff flange has 2 cut outs to make life easier) you can now drop the inner end of the driveshaft down throught the wish bone, and then pull the shaft out of the hub.

                  If you wanna undo the lower ball its OK, but this way is normally a lot less hassle, and you don't even have to take the wheel off or jack the truck up.
                  4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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                  • #10
                    ahh..... of course, as if removing axel for cv boots, took mine out today going above diff, 4" lift gives clearance, never thought about going down.


                    not on the truck anyway.
                    Diesel, like petrol only better

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                    • #11
                      Giving up

                      Originally posted by openback
                      ahh..... of course, as if removing axel for cv boots, took mine out today going above diff, 4" lift gives clearance, never thought about going down.


                      not on the truck anyway.
                      I did the two outer bushes and spent 2 hours beating crap out of the ball joint before I gave up.

                      Still.....the noise has gone now.....

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                      • #12
                        Brilliant!

                        Originally posted by TonyN
                        You don't need to undo the ball joint, unbolt the inner end of the drive shaft, undo the bottem end of the shock and pull it out the way, then put a jack indo the lower wishbone balljoint and take the weight of the car, with a bit of wiggling (the diff flange has 2 cut outs to make life easier) you can now drop the inner end of the driveshaft down throught the wish bone, and then pull the shaft out of the hub.

                        If you wanna undo the lower ball its OK, but this way is normally a lot less hassle, and you don't even have to take the wheel off or jack the truck up.
                        Great idea! Wish I hadnt given up so soon! Still, the noise has gone, I have replaced the two outer bushes and I still have the new ones to go on if I need them. Thanks for the advice.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Still tryin

                          Originally posted by TonyN
                          You don't need to undo the ball joint, unbolt the inner end of the drive shaft, undo the bottem end of the shock and pull it out the way, then put a jack indo the lower wishbone balljoint and take the weight of the car, with a bit of wiggling (the diff flange has 2 cut outs to make life easier) you can now drop the inner end of the driveshaft down throught the wish bone, and then pull the shaft out of the hub.

                          If you wanna undo the lower ball its OK, but this way is normally a lot less hassle, and you don't even have to take the wheel off or jack the truck up.
                          Tony,

                          The rattle has come back again (I assume because I did not change the inner bushes and it just wore straight through the new outer bushes) So I went to the Toyota dealer and got all the seals that I will need to do the job properly. £120! I will try your suggestion about taking the drive shaft out. When I do, will oil come out from the diff? Any other tips you can give me for doin the job next weekend?

                          Matt

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                          • #14
                            Cracked it at last

                            Originally posted by MattR
                            Tony,

                            The rattle has come back again (I assume because I did not change the inner bushes and it just wore straight through the new outer bushes) So I went to the Toyota dealer and got all the seals that I will need to do the job properly. £120! I will try your suggestion about taking the drive shaft out. When I do, will oil come out from the diff? Any other tips you can give me for doin the job next weekend?

                            Matt
                            Good news. After a 3 hour session yesterday I managed to get both inner bronze bushes changed and the horrible clattering rattle that plagued me whenever I went over a bump has completely gone.

                            Thanks to superb advice from Tony, I managed to get the driveshafts out without splitting the ball joints and the rest was reletively easy. Job done.

                            Now whats next..... Ah yes, shock absorbers......

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