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Anyone know what the torque value is for the 12mm nut on the end of the front axles, under the domed hub cap thing? Am I right in thinking that it determines the tension on the wheel bearings?
Anyone know what the torque value is for the 12mm nut on the end of the front axles, under the domed hub cap thing? Am I right in thinking that it determines the tension on the wheel bearings?
Thanks,
Mark
The two big 54mm nuts determine how free the bearings run. Too tight or too loose and you could screw things up. According to Haynes you need a spring balance on the wheel nut studs too set them up. But you can do it by 'feel'.
The 54mm nuts determine the wheel bearing tension.
I think this washer/nut is just there to stop the drive spindle falling out of the hub (in the direction of the diff) if it all goes very wrong.
If you look at the thread on replacing the wheel bearings and manual hubs... you'll see a standard hub image and the manual hub image. Washer and bolt. I recall it was a firm TonyN medium ratchet tight.
As you can see in that image, the washer touches nothing else but the spindle to which it is attached. Image below for completeness.
That probably doesn't help at all.
I usually do wheel bearings by feel.If using a torque wrench follow Andys advice and use the Toyota specs for new bearings or the Ellerys for used bearings.The reason for this is new bearings require just that little extra to make sure they are seated.Rotate the hub at the same time while torqueing as well.
My washer is thinner than yours, Andylala. Seems to be similar diameter - about the same as the outer diameter as the splines, maybe a fraction bigger. I stopped turning the bolt just as the washer started to compress.
I think I may have overtightened my 54mm nuts , even though I had to use a chisel & hammer to turn it. Does anyone know if it's possible to reach 30lb/ft using a chisel & hammer?
Guess I should really get hold of a 54mm socket, eh? Bearings are kinda important...
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