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A search of the forum for any strange weirdness you are experiencing with one or more door armrest controls may well lead you to suspect that you have broken wires in a door wiring harness within the flexible boot between the chassis and the door. All good enough 'till the stereo fuse starts to blow, then it requires immediate repair. 
To see if you're in the right place, pull the boot back a bit and peek inside. If you see something like this then yes, you are:
Trying to properly fix it in place will be much more aggravating than pulling it apart, need to check all the wires and not harm it more. So.
This covers the driver's door, most used and thus most likely to fail. 1994 Gen II.
First peel the doorcard and some plastic.
Pop this wire holder off while you're there, squeeze the tabs remembering old plastic is old. Disconnect the power mirror connector.
Lower panel and speaker, out:
If you have fat fingers get the black box out of the way too. Edit: Get it outta there, just unscrew and tuck back, no need to unplug. Found it goes back together much easier with it out of the way.
Unplug these three connectors.
All different shapes no worries, they'll go right back when you're done.
Carefully disentangle the thing, you're gonna want to pull it out without catching on other stuff.
Almost done already, that's the bothersome bit. Have a beer, and get ready for a pull.
Work it gently back through the chassis and door.
Connectors are staggered to prevent 'em all piling through at once, just manage that.
Good job.
Now, you could pull it all to bits like this for a field repair, in a hurry, but we're gonna take it to the bench and take our time.
Disconnect the rest of the stuff inside the door. Lock solenoid is the most heavy-duty, hard to push the connector release tab at the angle it's mounted.
Gently pry the tab on the mount back and slide the whole connector free. Flip it around for easy access to the release, small screwdriver works great.
Find all rest of the mounting tabs for the harness, squeeze and drop. Make sure you got em all. Then thread the part that runs up the inside of the door into the armrest back into the door, didn't get a good piccy of that part sorry.
Gonna come out here, through the large rear hole:
Ready for repair.
To see if you're in the right place, pull the boot back a bit and peek inside. If you see something like this then yes, you are:
Trying to properly fix it in place will be much more aggravating than pulling it apart, need to check all the wires and not harm it more. So.
This covers the driver's door, most used and thus most likely to fail. 1994 Gen II.
First peel the doorcard and some plastic.
Pop this wire holder off while you're there, squeeze the tabs remembering old plastic is old. Disconnect the power mirror connector.
Lower panel and speaker, out:
If you have fat fingers get the black box out of the way too. Edit: Get it outta there, just unscrew and tuck back, no need to unplug. Found it goes back together much easier with it out of the way.
Unplug these three connectors.
All different shapes no worries, they'll go right back when you're done.
Carefully disentangle the thing, you're gonna want to pull it out without catching on other stuff.
Almost done already, that's the bothersome bit. Have a beer, and get ready for a pull.
Work it gently back through the chassis and door.
Connectors are staggered to prevent 'em all piling through at once, just manage that.
Good job.
Now, you could pull it all to bits like this for a field repair, in a hurry, but we're gonna take it to the bench and take our time.
Disconnect the rest of the stuff inside the door. Lock solenoid is the most heavy-duty, hard to push the connector release tab at the angle it's mounted.
Gently pry the tab on the mount back and slide the whole connector free. Flip it around for easy access to the release, small screwdriver works great.
Find all rest of the mounting tabs for the harness, squeeze and drop. Make sure you got em all. Then thread the part that runs up the inside of the door into the armrest back into the door, didn't get a good piccy of that part sorry.
Gonna come out here, through the large rear hole:
Ready for repair.
Better to go with it than risk breaking strands by fussing.
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