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  • Stuck in Park, Blown Fuse

    Hi everyone

    I have a 3.0 '94 Surf Auto. The 10A fuse in the middle of the driver's footwell fuse block keeps on blowing. It seems to be when I put it into reverse. Can anyone tell me what circuits are serviced by this fuse and the likely causes of the problem. Loads of things stop working like the intruments, electric windows, stuck in park, reversing lights, heater fan, sunroof etc and I just don't know where to start. Any help would be very much appreciated.

    Regards Richard

  • #2
    Originally posted by Richardireland View Post
    Hi everyone

    I have a 3.0 '94 Surf Auto. The 10A fuse in the middle of the driver's footwell fuse block keeps on blowing. It seems to be when I put it into reverse. Can anyone tell me what circuits are serviced by this fuse and the likely causes of the problem. Loads of things stop working like the intruments, electric windows, stuck in park, reversing lights, heater fan, sunroof etc and I just don't know where to start. Any help would be very much appreciated.

    Regards Richard
    If it only happens when you put it in reverse, that's the circuit to begin from? Disconnect the switch at the block and see what happens.

    The circuits that stop working are the ones serviced by that fuse...
    Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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    • #3
      Sorry to sound stupid but which switch from which block?

      Regards

      Richard

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Richardireland View Post
        Sorry to sound stupid but which switch from which block?
        I'd hazard a leap of faith guess that he's referring to the reversing switch and the fuse block.

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        • #5
          The reverse light switch, wherever it is! (Apologies for the use of the word block, it's a colloquialism for the type of connector at the switch)
          Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Albannach View Post
            The reverse light switch, wherever it is! (Apologies for the use of the word block, it's a colloquialism for the type of connector at the switch)
            There's no need to isolate the switch itself. The fused supply, whilst testing, does need disconnecting. With regards to the circuit, however, each part of that should be isolated as one works backwards from, (or forwards to), the supply.

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            • #7
              Hi, it could be the same or similer problem to mine, my fuses kept blowing and i eventually traced it to the rear fog light, some one had connected a wire to the fuse and run the wire under dash and out into the engine bay, they had just poked the large rubber out and it eventually kept shorting on the firewall. so just check behind the brake vacumn and you might just find a wire shorting out, worth a check.
              www.furryfriendsinneed.com

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              • #8
                My heart skipped a beat when I thought it might be that simple but alas no, there are no shorting wires through the bulhead/firewall. Thanks all the same though. So where do I start to look for the reversing switch? I'll start there when I find it. Thanks for any help, regards Richard

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by MattF View Post
                  There's no need to isolate the switch itself. The fused supply, whilst testing, does need disconnecting. With regards to the circuit, however, each part of that should be isolated as one works backwards from, (or forwards to), the supply.
                  It would have been my starting point as a non electrical person, just in case it was the switch shorting. Step 2 would have been to take it to an auto electrician!
                  Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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                  • #10
                    Anyone know where the reversing switch is and how to get to it? Thanks

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Albannach View Post
                      It would have been my starting point as a non electrical person, just in case it was the switch shorting. Step 2 would have been to take it to an auto electrician!
                      It is be hoped that the switch is shorting. It would be a pretty naff switch otherwise. In truth, by the sounds of it, the switch would appear fine, unless it has some weird internal short. I'd hazard corrosion, loose connections or a bodged bit of aftermarket wiring being the cause, personally. Watch it be the switch at fault now.


                      Richard: the switch is on the transfer case/gearbox, if I remember correctly. There was a thread mentioning its location within the last few weeks. A search should dig it out fairly quickly.

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                      • #12
                        Thank you MattF I'll look it up, regards Richard

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                        • #13
                          Maybe as simple as a blown reverse bulb and the filiment has dropped across causing to high a resistance and making fuse blow .
                          Try removing both bulbs and see if it still blows . If it does then there is a short between bulb holder and the supply from the switch.
                          Rick...Member of 1st Gen club. ONE LIFE ... GET ONE !!

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                          • #14
                            Both reversing lights work but if I leave it in reverse for very long it will blow the fuse. I also have noted that the battery volt meter, which must be on the same fuse, dips quite sharply when I put it into reverse. A lot of current is going somewhere.

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                            • #15
                              Do you have a towbar and the related socket(s) installed?

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