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Warning Lights, Alarm & Central Locking

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  • Warning Lights, Alarm & Central Locking

    Hello,

    I'm having a bit of an electrical disaster at the moment - I'm hoping somebody can shed some light on it all for me...

    I fitted a set of Wipac 100W (each) spotlights last weekend. They get their power from a fused relay (30A), which gets its power direct from the O/S battery and is switched on the high-beam wire to the right headlight. Driving in really driving rain the other night, the spots switched off and, when I checked the fuse, it had blown. At 100W each, the spots should be drawing about 17A, so to blow a 30A fuse, something's gone wrong... I assumed the rain had shorted the spots to earth, so I redid all the connections but...

    Then I noticed that none of my warning lights are coming on when I start the truck. Normally, you get a row of them at the bottom of the dash - all I get now is a quick flick on and off from the turbo light and the handbrake warning light (which is behaving normally). No coil light, no oil light, none of the others at all (except the back door light, which has started coming on intermittently). Anyway, I checked the gauges fuse, but it was fine - I think I might have blown a relay, as I can hear one switching on and then straight back off again when I turn the key to On (or whatever the position before start is).

    Anyway, today, the truck wouldn't start as the batteries were dead (I have a twin battery setup). It was probably the cold (one of the batteries is a Toyota original and it was -4 last night - I checked the voltage at the batteries with the engine running and it was reading about 13.5V, so the alternator's trying to charge them...) so I changed them both this lunchtime...but now my remote central locking doesn't work. I have a Toyota factory fitted alarm (I really do - I know some people don't believe there is such a thing) and it has a red light down by the gearstick(s). Normally, it's off, now it's on all the time. My keyfob has two buttons, a red one which normally just makes the indicators flash for no apparent reason and a black one which does the locking and unlocking. The black one wouldn't lock the truck, so I tried the red one and that locked it, but now neither button does anything and, to compound matters, when I use the key in the drivers lock, it doesn't work the central locking, just the drivers door!

    So what's going on? Is it a load of unrelated problems, or am I gradually chasing the same problem through the whole truck?

    If anybody has any ideas, I'd love to hear them...

    Cheers,

    Paul

  • #2
    ...just to add; I phoned Toyota and asked them what they thought about the whole alarm/central locking thing and they told me that the alarm was fitted by Scorpion, that Scorpion have gone out of business and that the alarms were a pile of c**p anyway.

    So now I need a new alarm...

    Anybody know a good mobile alarm fitter in West Cornwall?


    Paul

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    • #3
      Originally posted by N_WOF View Post
      ...just to add; I phoned Toyota and asked them what they thought about the whole alarm/central locking thing and they told me that the alarm was fitted by Scorpion, that Scorpion have gone out of business and that the alarms were a pile of c**p anyway.
      Nice to see a dealer not beating about the bush for once.

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      • #4
        Yeah - I was quoting directly, too

        Comment


        • #5
          Well, as it turned out, it was almost all down to the alarm, which is apparently having some sort of episode.

          However...the mechanic who had a look at it for me decided to disconnect my relay feed from the high-beam circuit. He reckons that it introduces earthing problems doing it like that, which is why the fuse blew, which is probably what tipped the alarm over the edge. He's told me to fit a seperate switch for the spot-lights, which isn't really as convenient as having them switched by the high-beam circuit, to be honest...

          Does anybody else know about this? I suppose I am effectively drawing more current through the high-beam circuit to the r/h light by putting the relay coil in parallel with it - does anybody know how much current a standard relay coil draws?

          Anyway, I think the moral of this story is that things work fine until you b*gger about with them...

          Paul

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          • #6
            A relay switched by the high beam wire shouldn't cause problems.

            Nev

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            • #7
              As Nev says, tapping the relay coil off of the main beam line should cause bugger all problems. It literally is a few mA only which you are drawing. The supply for the spots is on it's own fused feed, (or should be), so just check that you haven't cocked the wiring up.

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              • #8
                That's what I thought, cheers for that

                Paul

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                • #9
                  spotlights with a relay switched by the high beam

                  Hi i am running 2 100watt spots without a switch on my surf with no problem's but i have put a relay for each spotlight and taken a feed from each headlight's highbeam feed I.E. Left headlight - left spot. right headlight-right spot

                  D

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