Finally got round to wiring the roof lights today - thanks for the advice freely given by forum members too numerous to mention!
I made the cable entry over the drivers side of the roof, and if you do this you only need to remove some of the headlining fixings as you can get enough space to work this way.
1) Remove rear view mirror assembly. The trim prises off from the window side of the housing. There are then two bolts and two self tappers. The interior light connector clips out easily.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...irrormount.jpg
2) Remove sun visor. Three self tappers.
3) Remove drivers side window pillar grab handle. Two bolts under plastic press in trim. Lever these out with thin flat bladed screwdriver.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ndsunvisor.jpg
4) Remove trim from window pillar / roof. Use flat bladed implement and release clips by applying pressure as close to the clip as you can.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...rimremoved.jpg
5) Headlining will now pull down enough to be able to pull cables through / tighten up whatever gland / fitting you use for cable entry. Mine is an IP68 fitting - you dont want leaks!
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...headlining.jpg
6) Drill a hole in the position you require your cable entry. This was the scary bit for me! The roof is surprisingly thin and easy to drill though and was a bit of a non-event. Deburr the hole so the gland fixings have a smooth surface to mate to.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...r/12mmhole.jpg
7) Fit your gland / loom etc.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...andloomend.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...landfitted.jpg
8) Run your cables neatly down the window pillar and into the dash. I used plastic cable ties but spirowrap would work well as the interior light cable follows the sam route.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2.../newwiring.jpg
9) The trim can now be replaced to clear a bit of space for the dash trim that needs to come off.
10) I fitted a 40A relay from a Mondeo (cos I got a load cheap) and fed this from the high beam via a switch so I can inhibit the roof lights incase plod take a dim view. There is a handy earth point behind the speaker pod (removed to do this work) where I earthed the return from the lights, and the relay.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...r/40Arelay.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ibitswitch.jpg
11) Main power was fed direct from the drivers side battery, via a 30A fuse, through a firewall grommet to the 40A relay.
12) Electrically, this is a very simple excersise, and any of the generic wiring diagrams for spot / driving lamps will probably suffice but I can post a diagram for anyone who needs it.
Once again, thanks to the folks who explained bits to me!
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...htbarfront.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...connectors.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...r/lightson.jpg
I made the cable entry over the drivers side of the roof, and if you do this you only need to remove some of the headlining fixings as you can get enough space to work this way.
1) Remove rear view mirror assembly. The trim prises off from the window side of the housing. There are then two bolts and two self tappers. The interior light connector clips out easily.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...irrormount.jpg
2) Remove sun visor. Three self tappers.
3) Remove drivers side window pillar grab handle. Two bolts under plastic press in trim. Lever these out with thin flat bladed screwdriver.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ndsunvisor.jpg
4) Remove trim from window pillar / roof. Use flat bladed implement and release clips by applying pressure as close to the clip as you can.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...rimremoved.jpg
5) Headlining will now pull down enough to be able to pull cables through / tighten up whatever gland / fitting you use for cable entry. Mine is an IP68 fitting - you dont want leaks!
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...headlining.jpg
6) Drill a hole in the position you require your cable entry. This was the scary bit for me! The roof is surprisingly thin and easy to drill though and was a bit of a non-event. Deburr the hole so the gland fixings have a smooth surface to mate to.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...r/12mmhole.jpg
7) Fit your gland / loom etc.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...andloomend.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...landfitted.jpg
8) Run your cables neatly down the window pillar and into the dash. I used plastic cable ties but spirowrap would work well as the interior light cable follows the sam route.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2.../newwiring.jpg
9) The trim can now be replaced to clear a bit of space for the dash trim that needs to come off.
10) I fitted a 40A relay from a Mondeo (cos I got a load cheap) and fed this from the high beam via a switch so I can inhibit the roof lights incase plod take a dim view. There is a handy earth point behind the speaker pod (removed to do this work) where I earthed the return from the lights, and the relay.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...r/40Arelay.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ibitswitch.jpg
11) Main power was fed direct from the drivers side battery, via a 30A fuse, through a firewall grommet to the 40A relay.
12) Electrically, this is a very simple excersise, and any of the generic wiring diagrams for spot / driving lamps will probably suffice but I can post a diagram for anyone who needs it.
Once again, thanks to the folks who explained bits to me!
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...htbarfront.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...connectors.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...r/lightson.jpg
Comment