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  • Help! Imobiliser wont disarm

    Hi guys,
    The fixed grin has started to slip, I'm at home, the old girl's at work, it's Easter weekend and my local garage is shut!!
    Went to leave work yesterday and the imobiliser wouldn't disarm so no go. When the key was turned all the normal lights came on but all that happened when you turned it to start all you got was a click.
    The unit, when we eventually found it, had no makers mark or anything to identify it (the previous owner had no idea either).
    Whatever it is the box looks identical to the Toad Powerkey shown on the Car Alarms UK site. The "key" which operates the flashing light unit on the dashboard however, is peardrop shaped so I guess it's an older version.
    The wiring between the light and the box consists of 2 blue wires and 1 red. Unfortunately we couldn't, in the time available, trace where the wires from the box went but from the click when you turn the key it could be to the starter motor.
    My question is, can anyone tell me if there is an easy way to disarm it?

    Ken
    [FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][B][I][SIZE=3]When the going gets tough - Get out !!![/SIZE][/I][/B][/FONT]

  • #2
    Originally posted by The Kid
    Hi guys,
    The fixed grin has started to slip, I'm at home, the old girl's at work, it's Easter weekend and my local garage is shut!!
    Went to leave work yesterday and the imobiliser wouldn't disarm so no go. When the key was turned all the normal lights came on but all that happened when you turned it to start all you got was a click.
    The unit, when we eventually found it, had no makers mark or anything to identify it (the previous owner had no idea either).
    Whatever it is the box looks identical to the Toad Powerkey shown on the Car Alarms UK site. The "key" which operates the flashing light unit on the dashboard however, is peardrop shaped so I guess it's an older version.
    The wiring between the light and the box consists of 2 blue wires and 1 red. Unfortunately we couldn't, in the time available, trace where the wires from the box went but from the click when you turn the key it could be to the starter motor.
    My question is, can anyone tell me if there is an easy way to disarm it?

    Ken
    Just had a suggestion that if I disconnect the 2 blue wires to the light and join them, this might override the circuit.
    Is this feasable?

    Ken
    [FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][B][I][SIZE=3]When the going gets tough - Get out !!![/SIZE][/I][/B][/FONT]

    Comment


    • #3
      i had a similar problem on a rover416 the only way we could reset the alarm/mobiliser was to put the key in the door and turn it several times until it reset. hope this helps
      https://www.facebook.com/groups/henpals/

      Comment


      • #4
        If its a Cobra [the key slots into the receptive light] then you need a key that is recognised, turn the electrics on [without starting vehicle] 3 times and you should get a static red light, put the key recognised against the light and it should then reprogram the immobiliser
        Gaz
        _________________________________

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by The Kid
          Hi guys,
          The fixed grin has started to slip, I'm at home, the old girl's at work, it's Easter weekend and my local garage is shut!!
          Went to leave work yesterday and the imobiliser wouldn't disarm so no go. When the key was turned all the normal lights came on but all that happened when you turned it to start all you got was a click.
          The unit, when we eventually found it, had no makers mark or anything to identify it (the previous owner had no idea either).
          Whatever it is the box looks identical to the Toad Powerkey shown on the Car Alarms UK site. The "key" which operates the flashing light unit on the dashboard however, is peardrop shaped so I guess it's an older version.
          The wiring between the light and the box consists of 2 blue wires and 1 red. Unfortunately we couldn't, in the time available, trace where the wires from the box went but from the click when you turn the key it could be to the starter motor.
          My question is, can anyone tell me if there is an easy way to disarm it?

          Ken
          Are you SURE its the immobiliser. Sure you havnt left it in gear or something like that? I just tried mine (toad) without the teardrop sender on the keyring and I get NO lights at all - nothing. You said you got all the normal lights and then a click. Lights on suggests it might be OK. Might just be worth checking all the obvious normal things (if you havnt already) before the immobiliser.

          Rover method is specific to Rover I think.

          Cheers

          Kev
          Last edited by exmee46; 26 March 2005, 20:53.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the advice guys,
            Unfortunately the main problem is not knowing what type it is. Shortly after I got her one of the "keys" stopped working (the second one still worked though) and when I tried to get a replacement I was told that I needed to know what it was before I could get a new one.
            As what's happened now is much the same as before, I suspect it must be key failure.
            I'll have to wait until Tuesday to get the old system taken out and replaced.
            I'm looking at the Autowatch 171PPI Transponder Imobiliser from Car Alarms UK.
            Does anyone have any experience of this one?

            Ken
            [FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][B][I][SIZE=3]When the going gets tough - Get out !!![/SIZE][/I][/B][/FONT]

            Comment


            • #7
              I don't know about the model 171ppi, but I've got the 160 (I think Cat 1 Alarm immoboliser) which works from a remote fob (you have to start the car within 45 secs of unlocking the doors) or a touch key, with a manual PIN override. I've had no problems so far, and the best bit is it works my central locking as well (except the back window) which means I walk out the house, hit the fob jump in and turn the key, loverly.

              I'd say go for it, mine (although a different model) has given no problems since it was fitted june last year, and with a new system you get back up.

              Duane
              Gone from 4x4 to 1x2

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Maverick
                I don't know about the model 171ppi, but I've got the 160 (I think Cat 1 Alarm immoboliser) which works from a remote fob (you have to start the car within 45 secs of unlocking the doors) or a touch key, with a manual PIN override. I've had no problems so far, and the best bit is it works my central locking as well (except the back window) which means I walk out the house, hit the fob jump in and turn the key, loverly.

                I'd say go for it, mine (although a different model) has given no problems since it was fitted june last year, and with a new system you get back up.

                Duane
                Thanks Maverick,
                I'd almost decided but never having heard of this make I thought I'd ask. Will probably go for the basic imobiliser.

                Ken
                [FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][B][I][SIZE=3]When the going gets tough - Get out !!![/SIZE][/I][/B][/FONT]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Just to update the story, I contacted Car Alarms UK, was told there was a 3 week delay, then got a message later to say they would come and fit it (last) Sunday. I phoned at 17:15, no one there so left a message to say that was ok.

                  Come Sunday nobody turns up!

                  Phoned on Monday to be told they had been waiting for me to confirm. Apparently hadn't listened to their messages. Agreed new booking today for after 14:00. Got a call at 16:45 to say engineer was in Oxford and wouldn't be able to make it. They agreed to refund the £130 (which incidentally had been taken off my card as soon as I put in the order) after I refused another booking for Friday next week.

                  I don't know what anybody else thinks of this firm but in my book they are a complete waste of time.

                  Have now contacted Autowatch to find an installer nearby, hopefully.
                  Ken
                  [FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][B][I][SIZE=3]When the going gets tough - Get out !!![/SIZE][/I][/B][/FONT]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    make sure you get a "Thatcham approved" immobiliser... it will say cat 2... at least then it is insurance recognised, otherwise it's fairly pointless having it in the first place... any monkey can bypass them, but you've got some ammo for the insurance if it's approved.
                    nee nar nee nar, i'm a fire engine!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by da SLUG man
                      make sure you get a "Thatcham approved" immobiliser... it will say cat 2... at least then it is insurance recognised, otherwise it's fairly pointless having it in the first place... any monkey can bypass them, but you've got some ammo for the insurance if it's approved.
                      Thanks Slug man,
                      I've decided on the Autowatch 171PPI which is Thatcham Cat 2.
                      All i've got to do now is get one installed.
                      Still waiting for call from Autowatch about the installer.
                      Ken
                      [FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][B][I][SIZE=3]When the going gets tough - Get out !!![/SIZE][/I][/B][/FONT]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That is not a god example of customer service, either they're going to do the job or not, but you shouldn't be messed about. I just pre-book, then drop it off every year for them to service it, so I can keep my theft cover.

                        Go some where else where they want your business.
                        Gone from 4x4 to 1x2

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