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the throttle issue that you have i had the same where have you got the idle valve hose going to is it before or after the air flow meter it needs to be after so air is drawn through the meter
unfortunately..there's still a shed load of work to do, starting with rear axle overhaul.. I've got a ring and pinion to fit to the 3rd to match the front diff' ratio (4.56:1), so may as well do seals etc whilst its in bits. Then there's paint, front bumper build, rear bumper build..thats providing nothing goes wrong in the mean time
Still not tested the box, but the light throttle issue is still persistent!
I pulled it out to fit the rear spring spacers and it's ###### annoying. Put it in D and it's fine, let off the brake, all normal..pulls forward on idle until it meets 'X' resistance, in my case the slight ramp up into the garage. It's now when I apply v.light throttle to pull in to the garage it doesn't like it and cuts out.
It can be driven round by gassing it when it starts spluttering, but when your trying a tight manoeuvre it's not ideal. You can also drive on the brake allowing a higher throttle input.
It did seem to run nicer with the fuel pump wired direct, but it's the same feed, just switched by the relay. Might try a better quality relay (got it from halfords I think) as when it stalls you can hear the starter click..so there's some bleedover or feedback occurring inside the relay I think.
Also, I've not touched the ignition system yet, when I get back I'll change the plugs, caps and rotors, as well as the coolant temp sensor which I still havnt done.
Other than that, I had a 'tune' of the shocks adding 50ml more oil and 50psi of nitrogen, but I've gone a bit too far I think. They feel spot on in terms of stiffness, but it's riding another 60-70mm higher with 150mm up travel rather than the 80-90mm I've built it for. Result..it's big, the front wing level must be around 1500mm from the deck..
What I do is jack up the rear end and place axle stands under the axle as close to the rear wheels as possible, chock the front wheels, start it up and go for a virtual drive. This way I can check things like gear shifts and speedo operation and ATF level without leaving the garage..
Rear most sensor (T/case next to the prop flange) is for the speedo.
Next one (the one that you have to drill the 15mm hole for and space it 2mm away from the rotor) oh yea, forgot about that one..will check it later controls the gear shifts.
The front sensor controls direct clutch lock-up.
Just had another thought, is the ATF at the correct level? As you were asking about the amount the other day.
I'll check the oil too..did throw a few more litres in & it looked OK on the cold scale..but will double check. On the oil subject, I've used Dextron Type II as indicated on the dipstick..looking round last night there was mention of using TIII & TIV?
Oh..was literally the dawn of realisation this morning as i lay in bed scratching my nuts..was pondering the CV joint and thought it shouldn't be clicking with the FW hubs open..then twigged it was the locker in the rear diff at least that was an easy fix..
Rear most sensor (T/case next to the prop flange) is for the speedo.
Next one (the one that you have to drill the 15mm hole for and space it 2mm away from the rotor) controls the gear shifts.
The front sensor controls direct clutch lock-up.
Just had another thought, is the ATF at the correct level? As you were asking about the amount the other day.
actually got it out and round the block tonight..course first thing i did was roll 'up something'
Its not all good tho..transmission needs investigating. Wont shift from 1st and if i put it in gear and lightly press the throttle, it doesn't like it & sometimes cuts out. Sounds like a CV joint is goosed too.
This is the danger zone for me..totally unrealistically i expect stuff to be right 1st time, straight out of the box & when they're not i have been known to go 'feck it' and loose interest. I shall persevere tho, just don't think it'll be legal this week
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