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an1mal's Hilex Surf..
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about as good as it gets for a SAS without notching the frame & modifying the sump..only 3" of 'up' travel on the shocks..with 11" of droopy love 
still gutted about the wheels
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Got the truck on all 4's supporting its own weight



exciting..but once again my eternal optimism has been crushed as the 15" wheels wont clear the calipers
I've used the IFS hubs on the solid axle so's not to have to run the wheel spacers. But thats pushed the caliper over an inch and thus catches on the inside of the wheel..well doesnt catch, more of a case of wheel wont go on with the caliper in place.
Gutted, i was getting all geared up for MOT early next week..
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That's not an LS1 (GM) is it?
But yes, see your point.
Smoooooth!
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The Lexus V8 is so smooth and balanced because it's a wide 'V' approx 45 degrees.Originally posted by Wolfracer View PostGood job there's not much torque twist on thst engine, revving the nuts off of it on stands...
My old car with a 5.7 chevy V8 would have fell off! the whole car used to rock when you gave it the beans!
Sounding good though.
I so want a V8 again!
The Chevy V8 is a narrower 'V' approx 30 degrees.
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Good job there's not much torque twist on thst engine, revving the nuts off of it on stands...
My old car with a 5.7 chevy V8 would have fell off! the whole car used to rock when you gave it the beans!
Sounding good though.
I so want a V8 again!
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYqeg7iFdjY

Well done mate, that's some serious truck now hehe
Tad LOUD though :P
peace
cal
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Yeah it doesn't matter where it gets air from, but obviously it needs a filter as the intake runners are directly behind it.Originally posted by an1mal_69 View PostCheers for the heads up on the sender! Looked throughout the lexsurf archives, does it not matter wether the ISCV gets it's air from i.e. pre/post AFM? In that case, can I not just fit a small filter (like the piper-x breathers) and leave it open to atmosphere? Obviously pay attention to avoid any water contamination whilst wading.
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Jus snapped the temp sender
just punctuates where I'm at with this at the mo' might step back and have a week off.
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Cheers for the heads up on the sender! Looked throughout the lexsurf archives, does it not matter wether the ISCV gets it's air from i.e. pre/post AFM? In that case, can I not just fit a small filter (like the piper-x breathers) and leave it open to atmosphere? Obviously pay attention to avoid any water contamination whilst wading.Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View PostI always use an auxillary temp gauge with it's own sender in place of the original Lexus sender. You'll need a 1/8th NPT tap to re-cut the thread in the hole though, as the original is not tapered. 99.9% of all after market gauges have 1/8th NPT threads. If you screw the new sender in without running the tap down the hole first, the water bridge will crack. Been there, done that. (on mine)
The green plug next to the temp gauge sender is the EFI coolant sensor. I replace those as well as they will screw up the fuelling if they're faulty.
ISCV controls the idle speed when cold as it by-passes the throttle butterfly. As the engine warms up it shuts off the port and the throtle body takes over.
yea spotted the cores..if I ever get a tig & the skills to use it properly I might have a go at making a rad, but only to say I did it, can't see it ever being as cost effective as buying one. I think the core is slightly smaller than yours, but with the tanks at top & bottom it can sit that little further forward which is handyOriginally posted by gary-r View Postdecent alloy radiator at a good price - mine was half that but i had to re weld the in and out fittings (nissan 300zx turbo)
did you see the new gp 4 cores for £79 - thats a nice way to build a full custom fit with a few hours work
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decent alloy radiator at a good price - mine was half that but i had to re weld the in and out fittings (nissan 300zx turbo)
did you see the new gp 4 cores for £79 - thats a nice way to build a full custom fit with a few hours work
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I always use an auxillary temp gauge with it's own sender in place of the original Lexus sender. You'll need a 1/8th NPT tap to re-cut the thread in the hole though, as the original is not tapered. 99.9% of all after market gauges have 1/8th NPT threads. If you screw the new sender in without running the tap down the hole first, the water bridge will crack. Been there, done that. (on mine)Originally posted by an1mal_69 View PostFinally got round to wiring everything in properly..hooked up the relay as you suggested Vince, however fuel pump fires up as soon as you switch the ignition.
checked the connections and the Oil P' switch is open (ie no continuity to earth) with the engine off. Shouldnt that be closed until pressure is built, then open to kill the lamp (and switch the relay?)
Swap the wires on pins 87 and 87a.
Ive got coolant in now, but not running it for any length of time due to no oil in the g'box or power steering system. Need some connectors to hook up the PS oil cooler, some 1/2 UNF bolts for the shocks (Imperial Americans!!) so i can charge them and get it back on its wheels.
Vince, did you use an external temp sender (for the gauge), or is the coolant temp from the ECU adequate? Also, ISC valve..do they like to run without it hooked up? Mine fires, but wont idle on its own..if i catch it on the throttle it s fine (seems fine) otherwise it just dies out. I haven't investigated too much yet as im not at a stage to run it upto temp proper. Have a good day on it tomoz all being well..
The green plug next to the temp gauge sender is the EFI coolant sensor. I replace those as well as they will screw up the fuelling if they're faulty.
ISCV controls the idle speed when cold as it by-passes the throttle butterfly. As the engine warms up it shuts off the port and the throtle body takes over.
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Am i going mental??
Finally got round to wiring everything in properly..hooked up the relay as you suggested Vince, however fuel pump fires up as soon as you switch the ignition.
checked the connections and the Oil P' switch is open (ie no continuity to earth) with the engine off. Shouldnt that be closed until pressure is built, then open to kill the lamp (and switch the relay?)
Ive got coolant in now, but not running it for any length of time due to no oil in the g'box or power steering system. Need some connectors to hook up the PS oil cooler, some 1/2 UNF bolts for the shocks (Imperial Americans!!) so i can charge them and get it back on its wheels.
Vince, did you use an external temp sender (for the gauge), or is the coolant temp from the ECU adequate? Also, ISC valve..do they like to run without it hooked up? Mine fires, but wont idle on its own..if i catch it on the throttle it s fine (seems fine) otherwise it just dies out. I haven't investigated too much yet as im not at a stage to run it upto temp proper. Have a good day on it tomoz all being well..
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