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I like your optimism..I'll be surprised if it runs, having said that, my relay block is clicking away in the right places..apart from the fuel pump.
I've made a few schoolboy errors to be fair..
not realising there's an ECU (which I didn't salvage) to control the fuel pump from 93- so I'll have to trigger the relay with an ignition feed..
chopped the transmission loom off the surf engine loom when I gave it to Matt, so I need to wire the 4WD switch back into the 4x4 ECU & speedo back to dash..not using the lex clocks initially
You don't need the fuel pump ECU, it's just something else to go wrong at an inconvenient time.
Just use a five pin relay connected as follows: Pin. 30 > Fuel pump. Pin. 86 > oil pressure switch on oil filter housing, just splice into the oil pressure gauge feed. Pin. 87 > Crank signal wire @ ignition. (thin black with silver dots) Pins. 85 & 87a > Ignition feeds.
The fuel pump will work only when you crank the engine over and the relay will switch it over to continuous running when oil pressure is sensed (oil light goes out) and will shut off if the engine stalls.
Pin. 86 can also be connected to the charge signal wire from the alternator. (charge light wire) if that makes it easier for you.
That'll be £15 please.
Any other info you need, just PM me.
You don't need the fuel pump ECU, it's just something else to go wrong at an inconvenient time.
Just use a five pin relay connected as follows: Pin. 30 > Fuel pump. Pin. 86 > oil pressure switch on oil filter housing, just splice into the oil pressure gauge feed. Pin. 87 > Crank signal wire @ ignition. (thin black with silver dots) Pins. 85 & 87a > Ignition feeds.
The fuel pump will work only when you crank the engine over and the relay will switch it over to continuous running when oil pressure is sensed (oil light goes out) and will shut off if the engine stalls.
Pin. 86 can also be connected to the charge signal wire from the alternator. (charge light wire) if that makes it easier for you.
That'll be £15 please.
Any other info you need, just PM me.
Is that Inc VAT? I'll buy you a pint when me an Danny gatecrash your lexurf meet
I used a feed off the ignition to run the pump and check the system..seemed to build a lot of pressure, enough for the pump to bog down a little..I guess the fuel return isn't designed to cope with 55l/min when the engine isn't running, which makes the 5-pin a good call.
Open pipes?? 26" of cherry-bomb goodness there..gonna be a stealth warrior
schoolboy error#3..didnt take the diagnostics connector from the Lex' (the round one 'D3'). Should still run without it though shouldnt it? Im going to source one from a breaker to wire back in..sigh
schoolboy error#3..didnt take the diagnostics connector from the Lex' (the round one 'D3'). Should still run without it though shouldnt it? Im going to source one from a breaker to wire back in..sigh
Not needed, it's just an extension from the one on the engine.
Having whittled down & connected most of the 'loose ends' (still a couple left..any idea on the colour of the reverse light wires?) it wouldn't go pulled a plug..sparking but dry. Only had the fuel lines back to front at least the system is well pressure tested now..lol
Je-zus tho, what a lovely noise..made my ear drums tickle. Definitely won't be doing any track days ..or maybe getting an MOT
Having whittled down & connected most of the 'loose ends' (still a couple left..any idea on the colour of the reverse light wires?) it wouldn't go pulled a plug..sparking but dry. Only had the fuel lines back to front at least the system is well pressure tested now..lol
Je-zus tho, what a lovely noise..made my ear drums tickle. Definitely won't be doing any track days ..or maybe getting an MOT
Time for the inorgaral vid ? can nip over tomorrow with the HD cam and get in 'tinterweb by lunch ?
peace
cal
Bala Mud, best underseal there is, only £30 per application.
Finally got round to wiring everything in properly..hooked up the relay as you suggested Vince, however fuel pump fires up as soon as you switch the ignition.
checked the connections and the Oil P' switch is open (ie no continuity to earth) with the engine off. Shouldnt that be closed until pressure is built, then open to kill the lamp (and switch the relay?)
Ive got coolant in now, but not running it for any length of time due to no oil in the g'box or power steering system. Need some connectors to hook up the PS oil cooler, some 1/2 UNF bolts for the shocks (Imperial Americans!!) so i can charge them and get it back on its wheels.
Vince, did you use an external temp sender (for the gauge), or is the coolant temp from the ECU adequate? Also, ISC valve..do they like to run without it hooked up? Mine fires, but wont idle on its own..if i catch it on the throttle it s fine (seems fine) otherwise it just dies out. I haven't investigated too much yet as im not at a stage to run it upto temp proper. Have a good day on it tomoz all being well..
Finally got round to wiring everything in properly..hooked up the relay as you suggested Vince, however fuel pump fires up as soon as you switch the ignition.
checked the connections and the Oil P' switch is open (ie no continuity to earth) with the engine off. Shouldnt that be closed until pressure is built, then open to kill the lamp (and switch the relay?)
Swap the wires on pins 87 and 87a.
Ive got coolant in now, but not running it for any length of time due to no oil in the g'box or power steering system. Need some connectors to hook up the PS oil cooler, some 1/2 UNF bolts for the shocks (Imperial Americans!!) so i can charge them and get it back on its wheels.
Vince, did you use an external temp sender (for the gauge), or is the coolant temp from the ECU adequate? Also, ISC valve..do they like to run without it hooked up? Mine fires, but wont idle on its own..if i catch it on the throttle it s fine (seems fine) otherwise it just dies out. I haven't investigated too much yet as im not at a stage to run it upto temp proper. Have a good day on it tomoz all being well..
I always use an auxillary temp gauge with it's own sender in place of the original Lexus sender. You'll need a 1/8th NPT tap to re-cut the thread in the hole though, as the original is not tapered. 99.9% of all after market gauges have 1/8th NPT threads. If you screw the new sender in without running the tap down the hole first, the water bridge will crack. Been there, done that. (on mine) The green plug next to the temp gauge sender is the EFI coolant sensor. I replace those as well as they will screw up the fuelling if they're faulty. ISCV controls the idle speed when cold as it by-passes the throttle butterfly. As the engine warms up it shuts off the port and the throtle body takes over.
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