Another sore head

[MadScott]

Hmmm.

What's the mileage on the chassis, and overall condition thereof? If you said so already I missed it.

Shame to waste over what's probably a pretty simple repair, if the rest is in good nick, like I posted elsewhere they're going up in value here in the Motherland, and the recycled catfood can replacements they're churning out these days aren't really replacements at all...

If you're only 850 into it and it's just the head/engine related niggle you could dump a bit in and still be ahead, imo... it's not like they 'keep breaking'; once it was fixed up right you'd be happy for many long moons.

For me I guess it'd come down to what the rest of it is like...

/morningthoughts

[Dobbslc]

Same from me really, if it's good enough then fix it.
My 3rd gen is not the cleanest around but its still well worth the effort of doing it. What else can I get for the money thats not full of other hidden faults?

[Jonthefish]

Hmmm.

What's the mileage on the chassis, and overall condition thereof? If you said so already I missed it.

Shame to waste over what's probably a pretty simple repair, if the rest is in good nick, like I posted elsewhere they're going up in value here in the Motherland, and the recycled catfood can replacements they're churning out these days aren't really replacements at all...

If you're only 850 into it and it's just the head/engine related niggle you could dump a bit in and still be ahead, imo... it's not like they 'keep breaking'; once it was fixed up right you'd be happy for many long moons.

For me I guess it'd come down to what the rest of it is like...

/morningthoughts

Yeh - agree and also with other guys (thanks) that have suggested likewise. I'm going to go canny on this and in particualr try to find out what might need doing on the coolant side. I'm taking head problem as a fact (althouh still hoping not!).

General condition is not pretty. Couple of minor dents and peeling lacquer on bonnet and roof, but as a work vehicle so don't care about that. Done about 127,000 miles (204,000 km). Timing belt needs done (I already bought kit from Roughtrax before problems arose). Oil and filter overdue.

Otherwise minimal corrosion and none structural that i can see. New discs and pads at front. Box and transfer box all work well. All electrics work. Aircon works (my first - cooool). Tyres good (Bridgestones). Only advisories last 2 MOTs were a loose battery (fixed) and slight play in front wheel bearings (will need doing).

Basically sound as far as I can tell which is why I bought it and my inclination is to fix subject to cost.

Thanks again.

[shokenore]

I think someone mentioned Kwakka has a good engine for sale.

[MadScott]

Feck it's barely broke in tho... assuming it hasn't been late on too many other oil changes...

Seems like swapping the engine for a bad gasket or so's kinda like doing a heart transplant on someone that needs a couple of aspirin...?

Maybe pull the head and see, then if it's not that obvious, or obviously more serious, then maybe swap the plant, aye...

Standing by for whatever help can offer.

[shokenore]

Feck it's barely broke in tho... assuming it hasn't been late on too many other oil changes...

Seems like swapping the engine for a bad gasket or so's kinda like doing a heart transplant on someone that needs a couple of aspirin...?

Maybe pull the head and see, then if it's not that obvious, or obviously more serious, then maybe swap the plant, aye...

Standing by for whatever help can offer.

Hardly ever is it the gasket, talking of which, a head swap will require a whole box of gaskets to be changed, bear in mind that if one of those magical leak sealers has been used it won't just be in the rad it will also be in all the other water ways.ie in the block in the water pump, thermostat in the turbo water ways etc etc.
just giving the OP a few options.
It might have been KarmaSupra with the engine come to think of it....

[MadScott]

You spake the truth, aye... dam shame that's all...

[Jonthefish]

Before you start stripping it down, jack the front of the truck up off the ground or park it facing uphill, remove the rad cap and fill to the brim with water. Start engine and let idle (leave the cap off) and make sure the water level rises when you rev the engine slightly, this will make sure the waterpump is working.

Leave the cap off and if/when the frothing starts, keep topping up with water until it's all flushed out. It's possible that the rad seal has created an airlock in the radiator causing the pressure build up. I see your rad has a TOCOOL sticker on it, thats not the original radiator but most likely a Roughtrax replacement that some members have reported that theirs leaked, hense the reason for the rad seal being added.

Thanks Bushwhacker. Gave this a go but no change. Frothing/pressure starts immediately on start up i.e. moment key is turned so hard to tell if water pump is working. There is a surge from radiator filler when I rev the engine but presumably that could be water pump or more frequent compression pulses (i.e. more gas replacing liquid)?

Any other way to know if water pump is working (heaters work good - maybe a clue there?)?

[Jonthefish]

Update.
I've noticed that the bubbling starts on cranking engine with starter motor even before it fires up. That tells me coolant is not boiling locally explaining lack of combustion fumes in cooling system. It is the lack of combustion gas that baffles me and has prevented me dismantling the top end.

However.......as coolant bubbles just from turning over on the starter, could i do a "leakage test" using the starter motor as follows?

I've never seen the inside of a diesel cylinder head, but I assume that if I pop out an injector from any cylinder then there's no compression in that cylinder? If that is right, then if I pull all the injectors then there should be no compression at all. If I do that and the bubbling on cranking then stops that would that prove that compression is causing the gas in coolant. Yes? In which case pull the cylinder head.

If bubbling continues with all injectors out then something else weird is going on - farting gremlins in the water pump or some such.

Might be talking ale fueled ######## and that would not be for the first time. Indeed, talking ale fueled ######## is one of life's great pleasures and not to be casually dismissed or given up.

Worth trying this test before taking it apart or is above theory hopelessly ill informed? If not, would it also work by pulling glow plugs rather than injectors (like i say , never seen inside of one of these).
cheers

[shokenore]

If the head is that badly cracked then the bubbles will be from the compression.
Take all the injectors or glow plugs out and crank it again.
I'm on whisky.

[Jonthefish]

I'm on whisky.

Scotch whisky I hope. And I trust you'll keep buying it regardless of referendum result. It is the water of life and a blessing to all mankind, including our English friends.

[woodwarm]

Scotch whisky I hope. And I trust you'll keep buying it regardless of referendum result. It is the water of life and a blessing to all mankind, including our English friends.

Amen

[MadScott]

Had a few Palma Loucas last night, did finish with a wee nightcap o' Laphroaig.

Not to worry Jon, not that much different than a gasser to open up. Certainly no more difficult.

[shokenore]

Scotch whisky I hope. And I trust you'll keep buying it regardless of referendum result. It is the water of life and a blessing to all mankind, including our English friends.

Talisker.

It's on my preferred list.

[Jonthefish]

So, pulled the glow plugs and cranked it over. Not a bubble in sight. Got to be the head then. Number 3 glow plug looked corroded and had crusty grey deposits.

Has just occurred to me that there was no obvious movement in coolant either. Mind you, was on my own observing from side of car while cranking. Wonder if water pump is working.....

Assuming head needs replaced - has anyone tried Milners' heads recently? Made by Tocema. Local garage swears by them for Mitsubishi's. I know the AMC Roughtrax ones are best - but the extra £350 will be hard to find, especially if i end up replacing cooling parts too.