Another sore head

[Jonthefish]

The sniffer test is totally consistent. I just took the truck for a run to get some load on the engine and get the head hot and ran the test again. Lost much of the coolant on the run. The sniffer test still totally negative from coolant system but goes green if I breath near it - seems quite sensitive. Still absolutely no odour of exhaust-type fumes from coolant.

I'm loathe to tear the head off until I can figure this out.

One thing I noticed is a fair bit of turbo whine/whistle. Probably a stupid question (my mechanic experience is mainly air cooled bikes) but could compressed air from the turbo get into the coolant system causing frothing and pressure?

[MadScott]

Even if that were somehow possible? (never seen it) the turbo wouldn't be spooling enough at idle to make that kind of pressure, plus I think you'd be seeing a leak down there... probably also be an oily mess from that blowing out as well.

The coolant has to be going somewhere, if there's no drips or puddles then the only other route out is through the tailpipe I'm afraid.

[Jonthefish]

The coolant has to be going somewhere, if there's no drips or puddles then the only other route out is through the tailpipe I'm afraid.

Thanks MadScott. Coolant is getting forced into expansion tank as a frothy mess and then exits from there. Mostly ends up on battery tray then onto ground.
No sign of white smoke (or anything else) at tailpipe that would suggest water in combustion chamber.

[MadScott]

Yeah you did say that sorry... dawn post and I hadn't my coffee yet...

Still, I'm with the rest on this, can't imagine what else it could be. I guess the instant pressurization on startup is what has me convinced more than anything else.

[Dobbslc]

I was thinking about the turbo too, I'm not sure where the coolant chambers are on a turbo but it would have to be leaking on the compressed air side for it to get into the cooling system and not show any co2.
I suppose you could take a pipe from the exhaust to the air box intake and feed the engine co2 laced air. If it's sucking in from the turbo this might show up something.

[MadScott]

But, but... how would it 'compress' enough to do that, at idle... looks like someone threw a handful of soap flakes in.... Plus who ever heard of a Surf turbo busting like that...?

Probably more pressure on the exhaust side of the turbo at idle, from the exhaust trying to spin it up, than anywhere else, can't be very much in any case, sure not enough to look like half-done washing up...?

...'Bout ready to come over and get into it meself, if it ain't the head or gasket the trip's on me...

[Jonthefish]

I was thinking about the turbo too, I'm not sure where the coolant chambers are on a turbo but it would have to be leaking on the compressed air side for it to get into the cooling system and not show any co2.
I suppose you could take a pipe from the exhaust to the air box intake and feed the engine co2 laced air. If it's sucking in from the turbo this might show up something.

Well. I tried diverting exhaust gas into the air intake and also simply breathing into it (repeatedly) while sniff testing. Both still negative. Like MadScott says it seems unlikely that anything other than head could create such pressure at idle. But why no CO2 or HC in coolant. Aaargh!!!

Head's probably going to have to come off. But I can't help feeling I'm missing something here. I only bought this thing as a stop-gap for work as my other 4x4 is in the garage with another undiagnosed ailment. Now I have a flippin' project and a mystery to solve. Wasn't quite the plan.....

[BUSHWHACKER]

Before you start stripping it down, jack the front of the truck up off the ground or park it facing uphill, remove the rad cap and fill to the brim with water. Start engine and let idle (leave the cap off) and make sure the water level rises when you rev the engine slightly, this will make sure the waterpump is working.

Leave the cap off and if/when the frothing starts, keep topping up with water until it's all flushed out. It's possible that the rad seal has created an airlock in the radiator causing the pressure build up. I see your rad has a TOCOOL sticker on it, thats not the original radiator but most likely a Roughtrax replacement that some members have reported that theirs leaked, hense the reason for the rad seal being added.

[MadScott]

I did a search on that sticker just to see... nothing came up, good info.

But I've never seen a radiator leak cause the hoses to get hard at dawn, opposite if anything.

F'k, we coulda had it apart and sorted by now...

[BUSHWHACKER]

I did a search on that sticker just to see... nothing came up, good info.

But I've never seen a radiator leak cause the hoses to get hard at dawn, opposite if anything.

F'k, we coulda had it apart and sorted by now...

No it wouldn't leak due to the rad seal added, but there might be some blocked tubes in there?


EDIT: Found this....
http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthread.php?t=60840

[MadScott]

That's the trouble, once some idiot dumps that cr@p in it makes everything worse in the end, not only to figure out but to fix as well...

O.P., what news?

[Jonthefish]

O.P., what news?

No news guys - working all weekend and will be away start of the week so a few days before I can do anything.

Last time I filled the cooling system I did it by taking a hose off at the heater control and filling through that. Seemed like the highest point to fill from. Would that clear air locks?

I'll try the uphill park this time.

Hard to know if water pump is operating due to the amount of bubbling and frothing! Heaters working well though (may suggest pump ok??).

It seems likely that head is gone but I'd like to check everything on coolant side before ripping it down - if only so I don't f£$k up a new head if/when fitted.
cheers

[tashtego]

John,
For the cost of the new head and possibly rad and water pump, you might be better off looking for another,better maintained surf. You could keep the old one and either sell it in bits (always in demand on here) or keep it for spares.
Good luck.

[Jonthefish]

John,
For the cost of the new head and possibly rad and water pump, you might be better off looking for another,better maintained surf. You could keep the old one and either sell it in bits (always in demand on here) or keep it for spares.
Good luck.

Am considering this. As I only paid £850 I'm loathe to throw too much money at it. Could probably get £500 as a non-runner with tax and MOT (it runs great actually - for about 20 miles when it get quite hot!).

On the other hand i could spend £2k on a "better one" and have more/the same/other problems. Bit of a lottery really with old vehicles.

At present I'm thinking I'll try and find out all that might be wrong (head, cooling system etc) and try to make an objective decision from there.
On the whole I'd prefer to fix it. I've traveled a fair bit and I'm always impressed when I go to "undeveloped" countries at how they keep their vehicles going. American 1960s cars running about in Cuba (OK - that's only cos of the crappy USA blockade but shows what can be done) and ancient Peugeots trundling round west Africa. I'd like to fix the damned thing even if it ain't worth it in hard cash terms. But there's gonna be a limit. Need to know the bottom line if possible.
cheers

[shokenore]

You could also have a word with Kwakka and see how much he wants for his 3.0 lump and pay to stick it on a pallet and just bolt the new(er) engine on.Then scrap all the good bits off the old boiler engine and recoup your money.

Just saying.

You did kind of pay bargain basement price for it though, and as much as dirty chiselling scum bag sellers really get my get it was cheap maybe a little too cheap.