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  • Removal of Fuel Pump.

    Hi guys

    As title, Ive hit a snag, and cant for the love or money find out any information.

    Got it all stripped down, cam belt off, fuel pump pully off and 19mm nut off, 2x 12mm nuts on the back of the pump off, and the 2 on the support bracket.

    Now the thing moves, about 3 mm, but it wont come out.

    Have I missed something or am I doing something wrong as it just wont budge!

    Vince...I do believe you are the expert on IP removals!
    Keep On Truckin!

  • #2
    Sounds like the bracket at the back is stopping you pulling the pump back?

    Did you remove the bracket from the engine block

    p.s.
    It's a different set-up on the 3rd gen Muddle.
    Last edited by BUSHWHACKER; 15 April 2013, 13:35.

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    • #3
      There's 2 bolts holding the pump to the block near the pulley side, and a bracket at the back, which is held on by 3 bolts, get the bracket completely off and out, and make sure you have clearance with the fuel pipes by either removing them or slightly bending them, but be careful,not to kink them.
      well, that was a bad idea!

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      • #4
        All bracket and bolts are off, did find a piccy on the Aussie site, and I did miss one bolt, but I've removed those now.

        Is there anything I need to do with the flange where the pully bolts on to? as I can see some sort of wood ruff key? As I move the pump the flange moves through the giant oil seal, but then stops.

        I've tried a tap-ometer, but with no luck.
        Keep On Truckin!

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        • #5
          This is what I have on the front....
          Keep On Truckin!

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          • #6
            Right then, if there's nothing stopping the pump from moving back, then you need to fabricate a bracket to push the shaft through.

            I used a short length of 25mm X 25mm square tube, long enough to go across the front of the pump's shaft, with two holes drilled to line up with the threaded holes in your photo. Using two long two M8? bolts, screw them into the threaded holes equally so that the 'bracket' pushes the shaft through.

            The part with the seal and threaded holes in your photo stay in place, you're just pushing the pump shaft through them.

            The shaft is tapered as well as the woodruff key which is why you're having trouble pulling the pump free.

            Comment


            • #7
              Think thats what's known as an interference fit?

              So it's the flange which is geared up to the crank?

              It's a funny set up!!

              Gotchya, just a case of finding some tube, and a couple of bolts.

              It's days like today that I wish I was still a Mechanic and had access to a workshop!

              If I can't makkle something up I'm guessing a puller of some discription might do the trick, like this one...

              http://www.tesco.com/direct/steering...nance_644-1471

              Is there a correct procedure for re-fitting it? A bit of copper slip around the shaft will help, is it just a case of bolting it in place?

              Thanks for your help Vince.

              BTW, the cambelt has got to be the easiest I have ever done! Mine was changed in August complete with tensioner and idler, so it's all going back on, once my pump is out and new one fitted.
              Last edited by ronsarrox; 15 April 2013, 16:58.
              Keep On Truckin!

              Comment


              • #8
                Did find these...

                Removal ...

                http://postimg.org/image/h0isfxb4f/

                Installing...

                http://postimg.org/image/re4zog6m3/full/
                Last edited by ronsarrox; 15 April 2013, 16:39.
                Keep On Truckin!

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