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**Vagrant No2** · 1 September 2004, 08:09

Paul
I would suggest the fitting of a manual radiator in place of the auto rad as you have already fitted an external autobox cooler . The rad capacity will be larger in the manual rad as no built in cooler or restriction in the outlet pipe . This obviously depends how big an external rad you fitted for the auto box . Some peeps on here have suggested fitting an autobox temp gauge as a bit of reasurance that the box is still cool .

I have had large capacity rads built for cars before . The cost is not much more then a standard recore . They may be able to remove the autobox cooler from inside your rad at present to prevent you buying another rad .
Ensure the external auto cooler is fitted in front of the rad.
My opinion and I hope of help to you

Rick

**UKWolf** · 1 September 2004, 10:24

Originally posted by Vagrant No2

Paul
I would suggest the fitting of a manual radiator in place of the auto rad as you have already fitted an external autobox cooler . The rad capacity will be larger in the manual rad as no built in cooler or restriction in the outlet pipe . This obviously depends how big an external rad you fitted for the auto box . Some peeps on here have suggested fitting an autobox temp gauge as a bit of reasurance that the box is still cool .

I have had large capacity rads built for cars before . The cost is not much more then a standard recore . They may be able to remove the autobox cooler from inside your rad at present to prevent you buying another rad .
Ensure the external auto cooler is fitted in front of the rad.
My opinion and I hope of help to you

Rick

If you recored the existing rad, you would have it done without the auto box bit anyway and therefore increasing the radiator capacity.

There are a number of companies outthere that do more specalist radiators for 4x4's but I've no idea of the pricing of these.

**mart 870** · 1 September 2004, 22:38

Have at look at this, http://www.yotasurf.co.uk/forums/sho...t=feeling+heat It wasnt too expensive and is certainly cheaper than another rad. The only thing i would add to what ive already done is fit two oil coolers - just to be on the safe side so you could just buy one like mine and link it to the extra one you have already got.

DONT fit the oil cooler in front of the rad, Surfs need all the air flow they can get and blocking it with an oil cooler which is only going to pass on warm air the rad isnt going to help.

**Tallyman** · 2 September 2004, 21:56

It's worthwhile checking to see if your viscous fan is working properly. Mine overheated when towing up hill. I've since fitted an oil cooler and refilled the viscous fan with oil. The fan now works properly and I've not had any overheating since, towing or otherwise.

**stormrider** · 15 September 2004, 00:06

Cooling mods

Thanks for the suggestions regarding the overheating problems i`ve been having.I suspect the viscous fan aint working properly,so I`m going to have a look at that before butchering the rad.I`ve ordered some silicone fluid from the dealer,but I don`t know how much it should have in it.For some reason I can`t get to the link that covers the repair, so any help would be much appreciated.

**michael sa** · 5 December 2004, 14:01

Originally posted by stormrider

Thanks for the suggestions regarding the overheating problems i`ve been having.I suspect the viscous fan aint working properly,so I`m going to have a look at that before butchering the rad.I`ve ordered some silicone fluid from the dealer,but I don`t know how much it should have in it.For some reason I can`t get to the link that covers the repair, so any help would be much appreciated.

Hi, I know this is an old thread but I've only just come across it.
I've just been through the process of a 3 litre cracking it's head.
I had a local radiator service shop here service the viscous fan coupling and the guy made the comment that he put one and a half tubes of fluid in it. Ive read in other forums - I think the aussie surf site - that 1 or 2 tubes of fluid seems to be the norm. Not knowing what size the tubes are I guess it's useless information. One thing's for certain, it's definately made a big difference to the amout of air the fan is moving as the noise from the fan is now very noticable (mind you the last few days have been in the high 30'sC here)
On another subject - during the head repair, I had the trans cooler removed from the bottom radiator tank (they just replaced the tank rather than messing with removing the old cooler) and I fitted an external cooler.
I took some pics of the old tank and trans cooler showing how restrictive it must have been to the flow of coolant. It also seems silly to be dissipating more heat (and they get HOT) from the trans cooler into the lower (cooler) radiator tank.
Go figure...
Here are the links to my pics:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/mbudd/atc1.jpg
http://www.users.bigpond.com/mbudd/atc2.jpg
http://www.users.bigpond.com/mbudd/atc3.jpg
http://www.users.bigpond.com/mbudd/atc4.jpg
http://www.users.bigpond.com/mbudd/atc5.jpg
Regards,
Michael
(in South Australia)

**stormrider** · 5 December 2004, 22:50

3.0 overheating mods.

Thanks for the info Michael.Out of interest,does the original trans-cooler have a pipe linking the cooler elements together in the middle as well as at each end?Thats presuming you hav`nt flung as far as poss.Cheers m8.

**michael sa** · 6 December 2004, 14:25

Originally posted by stormrider

Thanks for the info Michael.Out of interest,does the original trans-cooler have a pipe linking the cooler elements together in the middle as well as at each end?Thats presuming you hav`nt flung as far as poss.Cheers m8.

Yes it does:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/mbudd/atc6.jpg
http://www.users.bigpond.com/mbudd/atc7.jpg
Nah, haven't thrown it out... (yet) I'd like to keep it around a bit longer cos I'm still staggered that some clown designed it the way they did.
Regards,
Michael

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