That Sump again - scrap or repair the truck??

[poseidon]

Hi - my previous post is sitting a couple below this. I've now had a confirmation that it's definitely the sump that's corroded. I can get a replacement s/h sump for £45 delivered, but the garage is talking mega-hours of labour to remove and fit the replacement. Does the whole front axle really need to be removed to get the sump off, or can the diff be split out to make enough space to drop the sump? On an old truck like mine, any repairs running over £500 takes it into the 'end of life' territory and I really would like to keep it going.
Any comments on the time/difficulty and methodology on a sump replacement will be welcome before I make the decision on whether to repair of break the truck.
Of course, the epoxy patch repair trick has not been ruled out, but I suspect it's a difficult patch that will need the sump cleaned back and risk increasing the holes, and then it's bound to leak or fall off eventually, with catastrophic oil loss. Any views?

thanks....keith

[Dara]

the whole axle doesnt need to be removed jus the diff does...not a hard job really at all

[TonyN]

I'd struggle to take more than a normal day inc lots of tea breaks.

It's really not that hard, especially with a ramp or pit.

There is no 'front axle' on a IFS truck, the front diff is all that's in the way, you can remove the driveshafts if you want, or cable tie them out the way so you don't have to take the hubs apart.

[poseidon]

Yep, it's definitely rust eating through from the outside of the sump pan. 15 years of Scotch Salt on these icy roads, I suppose. Everything under the truck looks rusty to me, particularly the shocks and all the suspension arms etc, but mainly just surface rust.
Dropping the diff sounds fairly straightforward on a ramp, but not so easy if your lying in a puddle at the side of the road, even with a couple of inches suspension lift. I'll see what the garage quotes for doing the work before bringing it back in house for my normal diy botch-up. 4 hours garage labour should surely cover it, even at £50 an hour??? I'd rather pay that than lying on my back for the next 2 weeks, rounding seized nuts and grinding off....K

[bryanisaoldgit]

diff out

Hi - my previous post is sitting a couple below this. I've now had a confirmation that it's definitely the sump that's corroded. I can get a replacement s/h sump for £45 delivered, but the garage is talking mega-hours of labour to remove and fit the replacement. Does the whole front axle really need to be removed to get the sump off, or can the diff be split out to make enough space to drop the sump? On an old truck like mine, any repairs running over £500 takes it into the 'end of life' territory and I really would like to keep it going.
Any comments on the time/difficulty and methodology on a sump replacement will be welcome before I make the decision on whether to repair of break the truck.
Of course, the epoxy patch repair trick has not been ruled out, but I suspect it's a difficult patch that will need the sump cleaned back and risk increasing the holes, and then it's bound to leak or fall off eventually, with catastrophic oil loss. Any views?

thanks....keith

i just dropped my front diff front wheels off put on axle stands only took me two hours bit of a fiddle but not hard get someone to hold foot brake to undo driveshaft bolts easy from with wheels off and long extention bar hope this helps

[poseidon]

Sorted..... 3.5 hours lying on his back in the road, with rainwater running alongside him in the gutter, a bold freelance mechanic removed the corroded sump, replaced with a s/h sump pan (courtesy of Lord (Terry) Lucan) and he changed the oil and filter too. Cost me £100 cash, which I think was pretty good, considering local garages were threatening at least a full day at nearly £40 an hour.
He didn't even need to drop the diff - just removed steering linkages, gearbox mounts etc and jacked engine up a couple of inches to get clearance. It's possible I could have done it myself, but it would have taken weeks.

With the old sump off, I can now see how badly s*****d it really is - about half the sides of the sump seem just porous with corrosion.

Thanks for all advice - greatly appreciated and scrappage avoided (well delayed at least)...Keith

[MIleshighhopes]

Sorted..... 3.5 hours lying on his back in the road, with rainwater running alongside him in the gutter, a bold freelance mechanic removed the corroded sump, replaced with a s/h sump pan (courtesy of Lord (Terry) Lucan) and he changed the oil and filter too. Cost me £100 cash, which I think was pretty good, considering local garages were threatening at least a full day at nearly £40 an hour.
He didn't even need to drop the diff - just removed steering linkages, gearbox mounts etc and jacked engine up a couple of inches to get clearance. It's possible I could have done it myself, but it would have taken weeks.

With the old sump off, I can now see how badly s*****d it really is - about half the sides of the sump seem just porous with corrosion.

Thanks for all advice - greatly appreciated and scrappage avoided (well delayed at least)...Keith

Nice one , Long live ye Surf

[BUSHWHACKER]

I'd like to see a photo of this corroded sump pan.

[poseidon]

For interest, here's a couple of pics showing the corroded sump pan... Worth keeping an eye on this. I can't actually see any sign of perforation on the inside of the sump, but the corroded steel on the outside is falling off in big chips...K

[BUSHWHACKER]

Was the truck parked up in long wet grass with no bash plate for several months before you bought it?

[gary-r]

or parked with the front end in the sea.

if it leaked like a normal sump it would have lived

[TonyN]

yeah, there is a lot be said for a few minor leaks around the motor for long term anti-corrosion.

(thats what I'll tell Wolfracer... )

[Albannach]

Just stick a spanner on the bolt head. There's no need for screwdriver antics or brake pressing shenanigans.