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  • rear brakes binding

    as title i've adjusted them as per the toyota FSM and they started binding so adjusted as i would normally, basically adjust until drum just goes back on with slight drag on the wheel when it's rotated, this ended up with the brakes binding i have also had the bell cranks apart and checked for free movement these have been cleaned and greased and work as they should, but the damn brakes still bind! i have also adjusted the brakes by the guidelines on here and it still ended up f00king binding i am running out of idea's, the free play in the bell crank is to factory spec's as well, the h/brake cable is free to move throughout the travel so what the hell is going wrong
    I'M ALWAYS IN THE SH'T, IT'S ONLY THE DEPTH THAT VARIES!!!!!!!!

  • #2
    If you adjust brakes correctly and they just drag slightly (ie: you can just feel the shoes skimming the drum), but when you apply either foot or parking brake and it then binds, it's clear that something is siezing. Check the handbrake cable and mechanism, the wheel cylinders and also the compensator valve (if fitted). All of these can create binding. Failing all that, you may just be adjusting them a little too much, so back off a little and see if that helps.

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    • #3
      cheers for the reply but, when i had the brakes apart i checked all the system and all mechanisms just to be sure it was all ok, as if any other part was not working as it should it would hinder correct brake adjustment. anyhow i think it's now sorted. the problem for anyone else, was the auto adjuster spring from the adjusting mechanism to the leading shoe was in the wrong hole this happened because when the hub and shaft assembly was removed the shoes were still attached on dis-assembly the shoes came off and the spring dropped off so i didn't see which hole it was in so i assumed the hole i used was correct
      I'M ALWAYS IN THE SH'T, IT'S ONLY THE DEPTH THAT VARIES!!!!!!!!

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      • #4
        Cheers for letting us know mate.

        Should help someone else who does the same thing.

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        • #5
          I always let the rear shoes self adjust on the ratchet pulling the handbrake, it seems to work far better than doing them the old fashoned manual way IMHO.

          3rd Gens (and Pickups) are very prone to the lever going through the back plate seizing in its pivot. 2nd Gens are different so its not an issue.
          4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TonyN View Post
            I always let the rear shoes self adjust on the ratchet pulling the handbrake, it seems to work far better than doing them the old fashoned manual way IMHO.

            3rd Gens (and Pickups) are very prone to the lever going through the back plate seizing in its pivot. 2nd Gens are different so its not an issue.
            Mine has done just that a couple of times, but only on the offside for some reason, and even after stripping, wire brushing, and lubricating. The nearside has never seized. You get to know by the feel of the handbrake, it just feels different
            Сви можемо

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            • #7
              well i've replaced the rear drums due to a 1mm runout, i re-adjusted the brakes using the method mentioned by tony but it didn't seem to be adjusted just right, so i checked them and had to go up by two more clicks to feel right, the bell cranks are free and have no tight spots and the cables are good and free so time will tell once the shoes and drums are bedded in..
              I'M ALWAYS IN THE SH'T, IT'S ONLY THE DEPTH THAT VARIES!!!!!!!!

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