Gen 3 Temps & Cooling

[tonupteabag]

well now since we are talking 3rd gen cooling i would like to pick anyones brain (if it's possible on here)
any how my 3rd gen did a 24 mile run and the bottom of the rad was cold, i thought blockage so off came the rad back flushed the whole cooling system three times to make sure, i also put rad cleaner in the rad plus two kettle's of boiling water gave it a good swill around left it an hour to do it's work, anyway after i emptied the rad and flushed it from bottom to top and vice versa the water was clear anyway the main point is the rad was not blocked that i could see it's not any heavier than it should be either, so what are the chances of the stat being stuck shut? the problem being that it doesn't pressurise any more than it should and the rad temp by feel isn't over hot and i have no bubbling in the rad either so any other ideas?????
ps i think the stat change will be done tomorrow just in case

[Bogus]

Is that not how its meant to be ? Hot water goes in top, flows down through rad, getting colder with each pass, and then comes out at bottom ?

That would mean its all working perfectly

[tonupteabag]

Is that not how its meant to be ? Hot water goes in top, flows down through rad, getting colder with each pass, and then comes out at bottom ?

That would mean its all working perfectly

Yes that is the idea but, i would expect around 50/60 degrees on the lower part of the rad as this would be about normal for most cooling systems, mine on the other hand is cold as in no heat in the bottom at all so the thermostat isn't opening because.........wait for it.......yep you guessed it the coolant isn't hot enough to open it, hence my question.

[Bogus]

If your thermostat is not opening, and therefore flow of water through the rad is low, leading to it being cold at the outlet, Im sure youre engine would be cooking, your ATF ( It is an auto ??) would be hot enough to alarm and your stock temp gauge would be off scale, and your head would be gone, so possibly your stat is full open, or not even there and you have full bore overcooling ??

[tonupteabag]

If your thermostat is not opening, and therefore flow of water through the rad is low, leading to it being cold at the outlet, Im sure youre engine would be cooking, your ATF ( It is an auto ??) would be hot enough to alarm and your stock temp gauge would be off scale, and your head would be gone, so possibly your stat is full open, or not even there and you have full bore overcooling ??

Very possible that it isn't there but, i am getting a lot of heat from the front heater so i'm not so sure it isn't there but i will investigate, maybe it hasn't had enough of a run to open the stat but i would think that 24 miles should have got it hot enough to open, the other thing is the stock gauge didn't really reach halfway so as far as the head is concerned i think it should be ok oh and it is auto, since i've owned a 2nd gen for a year i am pretty anal about coolant flow and temps, all the way back from collection i had one eye on the temp and the heaters going so any variation in coolant temps would have been noticeable i would have thought, anyhow i will pull the stat and make sure i have a new one sat in the garage so i will swap it and see what happens
cheers
tony

[BUSHWHACKER]

Don't rely on the stock temp gauge, it only has three positions,
Cold
Hot
New head required.

[tonupteabag]

Don't rely on the stock temp gauge, it only has three positions,
Cold
Hot
New head required.

Your not wrong there mate

[brett_mil]

So just checking, before I go out and buy a new head, I wanted to check if there is anything else it could be?

[BUSHWHACKER]

So just checking, before I go out and buy a new head, I wanted to check if there is anything else it could be?

Indicator bulb?

[brett_mil]

Indicator bulb?

Ok gotcha...

[tonupteabag]

"Update"
blocked stat on mine causing coolant flow problem

[brett_mil]

As much as it pains me, I have decided not to keep the surf

Just wanted some advice on what the best option will be for me to recoup some £...

Should I sell it whole to a breaker, sell it as a breaker on ebay, or break it myself?

[BigYin]

Do you have space to keep it off the road while you pull it apart?

You can list stuff here in the parts for sale section, and try ebaying bits and pieces too.

Have a look through that forum and get an idea of what the various bits and pieces tend to go for, and you'll get a good idea of what it's worth to you.

Scrap value is based on weight, as far as I know, but the scrap value based on weight for say, a brake caliper, is pennies, whereas sold as a working brake caliper, it's worth far more.

If you have space, and time, to break it up, you will certainly get more money.

It's a shame to have to ditch it though. The head on my 3L has gone, and we've decided to repair it

[stormforce]

if you got the room then break it yourself as you will get more back than selling complete as a breaker

[brett_mil]

Ok so it's been a while, but I changed my mind and decided to keep my Surf.

Bought the head kit from Roughtrax and and it replaced last week. Mechanic took it out and it's still overheating on the motorway

I am not a happy bunny as you can imagine after having just spent a wacker to still have the same problem

Not sure what else it could be!

It's had:

new thermostat
rad flushed
new rad cap
new head and gasket
new cam belt


Anyone have any ideas?