Ive read alot of posts regarding the rear tailgate window and problems relating to it failing to go up...down...or packed up completely. Mine worked perfect until yesterday. I checked the relays were working..the rear window wiper was in its docking position...wires from the car to the tailgate were not broken, and the window motor was good. All were working fine. I decided it could be the key operating switch. Opened the tailgate removed the tailgate card.....they just pop off the connectors and the coverplate underneath (5 screws) only to find the rear window, which was down, prevented me from accessing the 2 x 10mm nuts securing the switch to the tailgate. I then pushed the two tailgate locking catches on left and right of the tailgate into the closed position. Got me mate to operate the up and down switch in the cab which then raised the window out of the way whilst I supported it. Bingo there were the nuts . Undid them and took the switch off. Removed the black plastic shroud off the switch which then showed the yellow wiring connector attached to the bottom of the switch. I unclipped this and inside was a white disc with a raised slot in it (Pic A) and a raised white nipple on the edge of this disc. DO NOT TURN THIS WHITE DISC UNTIL YOU HAVE DISSCONNECTED THE WINDOW POWER MOTOR!!! JUST UNCLIP ITS POWER CABLE CONNECTOR. Dont do what I did.... I turned it just to see how it worked and the window started to go down into the tailgate. It dragged the B####Y connector back under the window as it went to the down position AND NEARLY TOOK MY FINGERS WITH IT. I then had to reverse the polarity on the window motor to raise the window again as for some reason it would not operate from the switch inside the cab. Now back to where I was.... I removed the white disc marking its position relative to the yellow housing before unclipping it.
On the back of the white disc is a contact (pic B @ 3 0'clock position) which connects on the corroded contacts when turned left or right by the key. Once inside I could see the problem. The contact terminals in the base were corroded on the ends as the large photo shows at the 7 and 9 o'clock position. A bit fiddley but my mate soldered small extentions on the ends of the corroded terminals making sure the original distance between the two terminals was the same. This gap is important as it allows leeway for the key in the switch to return to the neutral position without the pick up terminal contacting the up or down position in the switch. I reassembled the unit and hey presto! it works fine. Obviously this is only a temporary solution but I think we can sometimes overlook the key switch assembly thinking it could be a more expensive problem.
A. White Disc with screw driver/key location slot.
B. White disc once unclipped and turned over showing "Pick Up Terminal"
After the white disc/terminal contact had been unclipped and removed this is what I found. Ends of contacts worn.
On the back of the white disc is a contact (pic B @ 3 0'clock position) which connects on the corroded contacts when turned left or right by the key. Once inside I could see the problem. The contact terminals in the base were corroded on the ends as the large photo shows at the 7 and 9 o'clock position. A bit fiddley but my mate soldered small extentions on the ends of the corroded terminals making sure the original distance between the two terminals was the same. This gap is important as it allows leeway for the key in the switch to return to the neutral position without the pick up terminal contacting the up or down position in the switch. I reassembled the unit and hey presto! it works fine. Obviously this is only a temporary solution but I think we can sometimes overlook the key switch assembly thinking it could be a more expensive problem.
A. White Disc with screw driver/key location slot.
B. White disc once unclipped and turned over showing "Pick Up Terminal"
After the white disc/terminal contact had been unclipped and removed this is what I found. Ends of contacts worn.
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