I'm leaning toward a dodgy wire somewhere, I'll give it the toothcomb treatment tomorrow, see if I can see anything.
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Won't idle or run properly.
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1st thing I'd do is get a working 3.0 along side it and make sure every single connection matches.
In the 3.0 engine repair manual that MattF hosted there is a diagnostic walkthrough with voltages etc that takes you through all the engine sensors etc. That would be the 2nd thing I'd do.
Hope you get it going soon,
Cheers,
Rob.
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if you have one handy, its easier than the manual way.
There is another level of fault codes, that you have to use TE2 and E1 (rather than TE1) then with the light blicking run the motor then after go back to joining TE1 and E1 and read the flashes again, its supposed to better at detecting intermittant faults, but I've never had cause to try it.
there is also a terminal breakout box that lets you test the ECU terminals using the tester, but I don't know how many people would have one.4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...
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Originally posted by TonyN View Postif you have one handy, its easier than the manual way.
There is another level of fault codes, that you have to use TE2 and E1 (rather than TE1) then with the light blicking run the motor then after go back to joining TE1 and E1 and read the flashes again, its supposed to better at detecting intermittant faults, but I've never had cause to try it.
there is also a terminal breakout box that lets you test the ECU terminals using the tester, but I don't know how many people would have one.
It baffles me how a fault could appear like this with only a cylinder head swap, I'll report whatever I find, hopefully save someone else the hassle in future.Alan
yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."
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My money is on something being connected wrong after the replacement. If everything worked fine before it's got to be something physically wrong and not an untouched ecu or whatever going wrong by some coincidence
As Tony said though do a compression check to make sure the head is on properly.
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Originally posted by KERRSURF View PostIt baffles me how a fault could appear like this with only a cylinder head swap, I'll report whatever I find, hopefully save someone else the hassle in future.
have you checked ASAP its getting fuel at the injectors when it won't start or run? this could rule out worrying about injector issues and point to electrical faults4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...
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Originally posted by TonyN View PostThere is another level of fault codes, that you have to use TE2 and E1 (rather than TE1) then with the light blicking run the motor then after go back to joining TE1 and E1 and read the flashes again, its supposed to better at detecting intermittant faults, but I've never had cause to try it.
Then I'd check for pinched wires.
Then get a man with a machine. Hypertech have one, £30+VAT to plug it in and diagnose, but I don't think it's mobile. Give them a call.Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's
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Originally posted by gwh200 View PostI can't see a post covering it alan...have you absolutely, definitely,100% got the injector pipes in the right way. Can you compare them to another ?Alan
yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."
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