Rear brake shoe replacement

[Slugger]

I have done a search for a detailed description of how to remove the rear drum so to change my rear brakes on my 1996 surf. I have not been able to find one that shows ( PREFEREBLY ) how to get the drum off , can anybody point me in the right direction or describe how i go about this. I managed the front pads with no issues but am a bit baffled on the rear brakes and how to get to them. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance

Paul

[KERRSURF]

Handbrake off.
Remove wheel.
Use two bolts to go into threaded holes in front of drum, wind them in evenly to pull drum off.

[NiftyNev]

You may need to back off the adjuster if the drum is catching on the shoes.

Nev

[KERRSURF]

Not recommended to belt the drum with a hammer, they do break.

[Albannach]

Not recommended to belt the drum with a hammer, they do break.

Only if you hit it in the wrong place and too heavily. It's a learned thing rather than a taught thing...

WD40 and a couple of bolts is the safe way though. That said, the drum can still break if you're unlucky.

[KERRSURF]

That's the very reason I said don't belt it with a hammer.
I have done, when the holes for drawing it off aren't present, not broke one yet.

[Albannach]

not broke one yet.

Nor have I.

[Slugger]

Handbrake off.
Remove wheel.
Use two bolts to go into threaded holes in front of drum, wind them in evenly to pull drum off.

Thanks to KERRSURF , NiftyNev & Albannach for rapid response. Once again saved me a trip to the garage and ££££'s still in my pocket

Cheers guys

Paul

[Albannach]

If the drum is stuck fast, or the brakes aren't wound back enough, using the 2 bolt method will probably split the drum (assuming decent bolts are used).

Best way (if the drum is stuck) is a combination of WD40, bolts and a few, strategically placed, hard taps with a hammer.

[Slugger]

If the drum is stuck fast, or the brakes aren't wound back enough, using the 2 bolt method will probably split the drum (assuming decent bolts are used).

Best way (if the drum is stuck) is a combination of WD40, bolts and a few, strategically placed, hard taps with a hammer.

I dont envisage any problems with them sticking as i have no rear brakes whatsoever and no handbrake either as i assume the shoes are completely worn. It has been off the road for a while for this reason and i had limited funds to get the pads and shoes , but a little bit of fortune came my way and i have now got the parts so allgoing well should be up and running this weekend thanks to the information you guys supplied. By the way ,does the
3rd gen not have a brake wear warning light ? , just wondered.

Thanks again

Paul

[Albannach]

It may have on the front, but won't on the rear.

[Slugger]

If the drum is stuck fast, or the brakes aren't wound back enough, using the 2 bolt method will probably split the drum (assuming decent bolts are used).

Best way (if the drum is stuck) is a combination of WD40, bolts and a few, strategically placed, hard taps with a hammer.

With regards to the two bolts , do you know what sort , thread size , length they need to be.

Paul

[Albannach]

They need to b e decent quality, not B&Q ones!, I think they will be 8mm and have a standard pitch (1 or 1.25mm?). They don't need to be long, 25mm is enough, as they only have to pull the drum clear of the lip on the driveshaft.

[NiftyNev]

They need to b e decent quality, not B&Q ones!, I think they will be 8mm and have a standard pitch (1 or 1.25mm?). They don't need to be long, 25mm is enough, as they only have to pull the drum clear of the lip on the driveshaft.

ProbablyM8 as you say and most likely 1.5 pitch. Yes, use hi-tensile and try to taper the tip with a grinder on the last couple of threads to avoid damage to the drum threads if the end gets a little damaged.

Nev

[swampy]

Bit of help here, (Pre Neanderthal Surf)

This isn't cock on cock, but it helps get your 'ead round things!

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...tem/11-4wd.pdf