Body lift Vs Suspension Lift

[ChasesDragons]

I hear both terms being used here - I guess, the body lift allows us to keep the chassis/driveline geometry as Toyota calculated, but raise the body out of harms way, while doing a suspension lift (2" rear lift/torsion bar front lift) changes the driveshaft angles etc which you guys have mentioned before (about lowering the diffs to make the drive shaft angles come back into their std angles).

Which one is better? Is a body lift purely looks? doing a suspension lift and then dropping the diffs downwards sounds like it doesnt really make a final difference to ground clearance?

Have I got the information mixed up here?

udhi

[Guest]

I hear both terms being used here - I guess, the body lift allows us to keep the chassis/driveline geometry as Toyota calculated, but raise the body out of harms way, while doing a suspension lift (2" rear lift/torsion bar front lift) changes the driveshaft angles etc which you guys have mentioned before (about lowering the diffs to make the drive shaft angles come back into their std angles).

Which one is better? Is a body lift purely looks? doing a suspension lift and then dropping the diffs downwards sounds like it doesnt really make a final difference to ground clearance?

Have I got the information mixed up here?

udhi

It's the bigger tyres that you can fit that give you the extra ground clearance really.

Body lift is cheaper and moves the centre of gravity less however doesn't give you any extra suspension travel. Suspension lift by virtue of having longer springs and cranked torsion bars allows more suspension travel - as long as you shave down the bump stops.

If you don't want to drop the diff (still not the lowest part of the car which is the rear trailing arm mounts, the transfer box and the fuel tank) you could fit manual locking hubs and only run the front hubs locked off road at low speed. That will save your CV jonts and mean that you don't need to drop the front diff.

Cheers

[TonyN]

doing a suspension lift and then dropping the diffs downwards sounds like it doesnt really make a final difference to ground clearance?


udhi

Only between the wheels, approach, breakover and depature angles are all improved with a suspension lift, plus you only need to lower the front diff, and your doing this to fit bigger tyres, so get the clearance back again. The only thing that improves under diff/axle clearance is bigger tyres. (aside from turning the front torsion bar down a little, but you can't go far)

A body lift will improve the depature ange, as the back bumper is fixed to the body on a Surf, front isn't altered much as the chassis rails are the lowest point. (unless you have a spoiler!!!)

[laser_jock99]

You might want to try a combination of both.

A 2" suspension lift and 1" body lift should be feasible without any structural modification (like having to mess with the steering column hole on a 2"+ body lift).

The extra wheel arch clearance of 3" should just about allow you to fit a 33" (over the standard 29.5" tyre). This is what will give you extra ground clearance.

Beyond that the next feasible step is a 4" suspension lift (about £1500 fitted) and 35" tyres (even more ££££).

I'm currently running 31" tyres on a 2" suspension lift with the side steps removed to give the illusion of more height!

Nevillef

[marky]

So does a 2" suspension lift consist of 4 new shocks 2 uprated coil springs and adjust the torsion bars. or is there more to it ?

[Guest]

So does a 2" suspension lift consist of 4 new shocks 2 uprated coil springs and adjust the torsion bars. or is there more to it ?

Yep. Don't think you need anything else. No requirement for extending the steering column. May need to adjust the shape of the rear brake bias adjuster rod though - not sure.

Cheers

[TonyN]

Yep. Don't think you need anything else. No requirement for extending the steering column. May need to adjust the shape of the rear brake bias adjuster rod though - not sure.

Cheers

just move the axle mount up 2" with a small bracket.

[marky]

tony its a 2" suspension lift on mine

[TonyN]

tony its a 2" suspension lift on mine

Good, thats why I posted a pic of a 2" bracket!!

[marky]

Good, thats why I posted a pic of a 2" bracket!!

so is that to adjust the brake bias then

[sammy]

Good, thats why I posted a pic of a 2" bracket!!

he he LOL

[TonyN]

so is that to adjust the brake bias then

If you fit 2" + springs, you lift the chassis (where the valve is bolted) 2" higher then the axle (where the other end of the lever is bolted). so to get the valve back in its original place you either bend the rod into pretty shapes and hope for the best, or just lift the rod mounting point up by the same amount that you've lifted the chassis.



In theory, if the rod is lower than it should be, the valve is supplying less braking power to the rear wheels. If you start bending it, and have the valve to high up, it will lock the rear brakes, as it thinks you have a heavy load in the back and apply more brake power.

[marky]

If you fit 2" + springs, you lift the chassis (where the valve is bolted) 2" higher then the axle (where the other end of the lever is bolted). so to get the valve back in its original place you either bend the rod into pretty shapes and hope for the best, or just lift the rod mounting point up by the same amount that you've lifted the chassis.



In theory, if the rod is lower than it should be, the valve is supplying less braking power to the rear wheels. If you start bending it, and have the valve to high up, it will lock the rear brakes, as it thinks you have a heavy load in the back and apply more brake power.

so i will need 4 procomp es9000 shocks & 2" extra length springs then move the brake bias thing up by 2" to do a 2" lift

[TonyN]

Thats the 'correct' way, in real life people don't bother unless braking starts playing up. But its so little trouble to make, might as well do it properly.

Can make one and post it for you if you want, seeing as you lugged that tyre around for us.

[Danno]

Just thinking though Tony, when you saw my truck you reckoned that my torsion bars are also soggy, wont cranking them up to give a two inch lift also stiffen the front suspension?

If so surely I could just go with +2" springs and shox on rear