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  • torsion bars - problem

    i have had 2" heavy duty lift rear springs fitted via la supertrux to the back end and it has bought it up about 2 1/4" which i think is great and a vast improvement, i now have 14" gap from the bottom of the wheel arch to the top of wheel rim,

    i have found that they have pushed the front down just a little, front gap is 13 1/2" off side and 13 3/4" near side, i am able to crank the torsion bars up on the near side right past 14 1/2" but the off side will not ajust any further than 13 1/2",

    with the front end jacked up i can turn the ajuster screw on off side fairly easily but have noticed it seems to have come to the end off its allowance, the torsion bar seems to lift off the ajusting cradle at the rear if i push it any further, does anyone know what is wrong. i would like to get the gaps all to 14"

    while the front end is in the air the front wheels both hang free with a gap of 15 1/2" so i know there is nothing els stoping it from moving upwards, can't get my head round this one, is there some kind of stop tooth preventing the torsion bar being kranked any further? but the other side is fine!
    Last edited by davemaxx; 26 June 2007, 22:44. Reason: update

  • #2
    Probably easiest and cheapest solution mate

    http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml

    Drop the torsion bars down so you have a 12.5" gap and then fit the 1.5" Ball joint spacers an you'll have your 14" all round! Plus the ride should be better, Torsion bar adjustment can make the truck bouncy!

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    • #3
      thanx for your replie, i have saved that link. however i have orderd some new up rated torsion bars on the asumption that the fronts will be just as tired as the back, if my truck gets to bouncy i will have to get some uprated shocks to try and damp it down a bit, (it may even kill the old shocks for me).
      i will find more out about why the offside wouldn't crank up any further when i get it out, allthough i think the spacers are very good, other threads state that coil spacers and the such don't actually fix old springs,
      there also seem to be, acording to threads that cranking the torsion bars only lifts the front and doesn't alter any preload, i would have thought that it did both, so if i wind it down as you suggest, i will have a stiff back end and very spongy front.
      anyway i know the one side of my truck front end suspension is diffrent from the other so will have to eaqual it up.
      the way things are going i would have been better to buy a 2" suspension lift kit. than to buy one in bits and fit in weekly episodes.
      Last edited by davemaxx; 22 June 2007, 18:37.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by davemaxx
        thanx for your replie, i have saved that link. however i have orderd some new up rated torsion bars on the asumption that the fronts will be just as tired as the back, if my truck gets to bouncy i will have to get some uprated shocks to try and damp it down a bit, (it may even kill the old shocks for me).
        i will find more out about why the offside wouldn't crank up any further when i get it out, allthough i think the spacers are very good, other threads state that coil spacers and the such don't actually fix old springs,
        there also seem to be, acording to threads that cranking the torsion bars only lifts the front and doesn't alter any preload, i would have thought that it did both, so if i wind it down as you suggest, i will have a stiff back end and very spongy front.
        anyway i know the one side of my truck front end suspension is diffrent from the other so will have to eaqual it up.
        the way things are going i would have been better to buy a 2" suspension lift kit. than to buy one in bits and fit in weekly episodes.


        I agree with you on the torsion bar bit mate! I didnt think about the fact that if they are shot you might struggle to gain the extra height!!

        Hope it works out!

        Comment


        • #5
          sway-away torsion bars

          i have now replaced the torsion bars with sway-away ones, they are 25mm rod rather than the standard 21mm, i have only actually cranked them up to an equal hight of the back which is 350mm (14") except for that little extra couplle of mill on the rear right above the fuel tank (bigger spring) my initial responce to their performance after 24hours is that coupled with the new rear springs they have made a remarkable diffrence to the trucks apearance stance wise, i can't realy say to much about on or off road performance at the moment because i have only been pottering about the town and won't get to this little place i know till friday.

          if anything i think my front shock absorbers now need upgrading or are just plain goosed out, there is no differance between the hard and soft switching to them and i know the eletrical message is getting there.

          i am thinking of buying some pro comp gas shocks for the front and back, they seem popular with everyone els, but am not sure wether to get the es3000 or 9000, to go with the stiffer front and rear springs. does anyone have any sugestions on these? bearing in mind the rear springs are plus 2" heavy duty and the front bars are plus 1 1/4" 20-30% stiffer, i feel that the pro-comp es3000 (stated as being between the standard hard and soft setting might get bullied) suggestions or alternatives would be apreciated.

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          • #6
            I'd use ES3000 on the front as the 9000's are very hard thats a mistake i made on my 2nd gen.
            ES9000 are good on the back end with uprated springs.
            (\__/)
            (='.'=) SQUIRREL MUNCHER GRRRRRRR
            (")_(")

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            • #7
              does that mean 9000 for the back and 3000 for the front combination then, and do they need to be plus 2". or standard because i think i'm probably very close to stansard factory height now.
              Last edited by davemaxx; 26 June 2007, 22:50.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by davemaxx
                does that mean 9000 for the back and 3000 for the front combination then, and do they need to be plus 2". or standard because i think i'm probably very close to stansard factory height now.
                I have sway away bars and 3000's fitted to front, there is less roll than standard, i do think that 9000's would have been to hard though.
                CHEERS JOHN................

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                • #9
                  are they 2" extended or plain replacement size though. what i'm trying to get at is, if i havent cranked them up any higher than the standard ride height, will the 2" extended shocks bottom out?
                  Last edited by davemaxx; 27 June 2007, 10:40.

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                  • #10
                    I havn't fitted 3000's for ages, I'd recommend 9000's over 3's on anything but a truck that never has anything in the back.

                    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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                    • #11
                      ok, thanks for your help, i'll have to go for the 9000 then because there are four of us and w'er not all that big but our combined weight would be in the region of 50 stone, and when i'm potering about the village it's usually with a couple of slabs and the odd bags of sand and cement in the back, i'm careful that i don't knock it about inside and people might say i would be better off with a pick-up, but only having funds to run one vehicle i find the surf perfect and tidy, for both transporting family and workhorse.

                      "oh yeh" and going across rough country to my favorite fishing spot.

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                      • #12
                        just remembererd, do i go for the 2" extended ones or the standard height, if i am running on upgraded torsion bars and heavy duty rear lifted springs, but only actually lifted to a 14" gap from a 15" wheel rim to the bottom of wheel arch.

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