Help needed anyone done a cam belt?

[martin-spain]

Just about to start the job, looking at it I guess you have to take the radiatior out a few questions
Does the radiator come out without the air con rad?
The thin pipes on the bottom of the rad (auto trans oil cooler?)
If you take the off will all the transmission oil syphon out? and when you reconnect them do you have to bleed them in any way?
Any thing else to be careful off?
Can you by cam belt kits complete with new tensioner?
Any help greatfully received thanks

[BUSHWHACKER]

No need to remove the radiator.
Just remove the viscous fan assembly and the shroud, remove cam belt cover, use a socket or spanner on the crank shaft pulley to line up all the timing marks (use a dab of white paint so you can see them better)

Remove the tensioner and compress in a vice and put something through the tiny hole to hold it compresed,

Remove old belt,

Fit new belt,

Re-fit tensioner and remove pin to tension the belt,

Use the socket or spanner you used previously to turn the engine through at least two complete revolutions to ensure that the timing marks are still aligned.

Re-fit cam belt cover.

Re-fit fan assembly.

Start engine but don't rev straight away untill everything looks/sounds OK.

Job done.

[martin-spain]

No need to remove the radiator.
Just remove the viscous fan assembly and the shroud, remove cam belt cover, use a socket or spanner on the crank shaft pulley to line up all the timing marks (use a dab of white paint so you can see them better)

Remove the tensioner and compress in a vice and put something through the tiny hole to hold it compresed,

Remove old belt,

Fit new belt,

Re-fit tensioner and remove pin to tension the belt,

Use the socket or spanner you used previously to turn the engine through at least two complete revolutions to ensure that the timing marks are still aligned.

Re-fit cam belt cover.

Re-fit fan assembly.

Start engine but don't rev straight away untill everything looks/sounds OK.

Job done.

The reason I am taking it to bits is I thought the cam belt had broken but in removing the cover its not broke just seams very slack the tensioner pully seams OK bearing wise and the tensioner piston is not seized, if you put it in the vice you can compress it and it comes out again, though I don't know if its comming out far enough. So the problem is as I see it either the belt has stetched a lot without breaking or the tensioner pistion is not coming out far enough
Any thoughts anyone? Has anyone got an old tensioner they could give me the overall length

Sorry about all the question but can anyone explane the timing marks to me?
Cheers Martin

[Gamedawn]

According to the engine manual the tensioner protrusion should be 8.1 to 8.9mm. They say if it is not within this range the tensioner should be replaced. Also if you can move the tensioner by holding it horizontally in both hands and pushing against a solid surface then it needs replacing. Excessive oil leaking from the shaft seal is also a no-no.

[BUSHWHACKER]

These are timing marks.......

http://hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/attach...1&d=1138387561



Note: This is on a 2.4 engine!

[martin-spain]

According to the engine manual the tensioner protrusion should be 8.1 to 8.9mm. They say if it is not within this range the tensioner should be replaced. Also if you can move the tensioner by holding it horizontally in both hands and pushing against a solid surface then it needs replacing. Excessive oil leaking from the shaft seal is also a no-no.

The plunger seams to be out the correct amount, though you have to use a vice to push it back. Is there a way of checking the belt tension in the manual, sometimes you have a figure for deflection of the belt in the center of the longest free run for a certain force appield to it by a spring balance or similar

Cherrs Martin

[Gamedawn]

Hopefully the attached might help

[martin-spain]

Hopefully the attached might help

I found this on the internet does this sound about right for the surf

"One more method of setting the timing belt tension is that there should be approx. 5/16" of deflection from center possible midway between the cam sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket, about where the head meets the block. Also, 90 degrees twist should just be possible midway between the cam sprocket and the intermediate sprocket. I pulled this from the Haynes book"

Martin

[The Mechanic]

Academic.

Twisting the belt is a way of checking the tension on SOME cam belts but this is not going to help you as you must use the Toyota tensioner. If the tensioner is up to specification and the cam belt is slack then look to find the reason, has a cam of drive pulley come loose? It is conceivable that the wrong belt was fitted previously (one to two teeth too long) but I doubt this.
Fit a new belt and double check everything as you go. the old tensioner may have frozen/temporary seizure and then freed itself when you took it off. Hope you get to the bottom of this annoying problem.

[NiftyNev]

Twisting the belt is a way of checking the tension on SOME cam belts but this is not going to help you as you must use the Toyota tensioner.

I agree. Deflection measurement and twisting is the old fashioned way to do belts that didn't have tensioners and you had to set the tension manually.

Nev

[martin-spain]

I agree. Deflection measurement and twisting is the old fashioned way to do belts that didn't have tensioners and you had to set the tension manually.

Nev

I put a new belt on that solved the tension problem but see other post "more advice needed"

Martin