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  • Opperating temp

    Hi every1,

    In the process of converting to electric fan setup. I need to get temp/fan switch but wondering what temp to go for.

    Can some 1 tell me the normal opperating temp (coolant temp) of the 3.0lt TD.

    I am getting my rad recored and getting a temp sensor boss added to switch the fan while they r doing it.

    Cheers
    Jon
    BEWARE OF THE REAPER

  • #2
    The standard thermostat opens at 88C, so ifyou want the fan to cut in when it gets hot you probably need to set it a few degrees over this to allow for natural temp fluctuation.
    Mike G

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    • #3
      Mine runs at 82 degrees without the caravan on and anything up to 104 with.
      Laugh!!! I nearly bought my own beer.

      Paul

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      • #4
        Thanks guys,

        Im looking at a twin fan setup and havent decided whether to have both fans on at once or a two stage set up (1 coming on at around 90 degC and 2nd about 95deg C)
        BEWARE OF THE REAPER

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Grimreeper
          ..In the process of converting to electric fan setup...
          What is your motivation for doing this?
          Here's a thread from the aussie site you may find interesting:
          http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=12298
          Personally, I wouldn't do it to mine. I wouldn't trust it in our climate and it offers no redundancy in the event of thermo-switch/electrical failure.
          But that's just my opinion.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by michael sa
            What is your motivation for doing this?
            Here's a thread from the aussie site you may find interesting:
            http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=12298
            Personally, I wouldn't do it to mine. I wouldn't trust it in our climate and it offers no redundancy in the event of thermo-switch/electrical failure.
            But that's just my opinion.
            Ummmm got me thinking now. Definatley not as hot here as in aus. May just keep the viscous fan and add a seperate electric fan. As im getting the rad recored i want to get a boss fitted for the temp switch while they have it stripped.
            Reasons for altering/upgrade to cooling is due 2 1, rad blocked in places so needs doing. 2, large 9" spots on front reduce air flow and 3, hopefully fitting 5.5ton winch which will reduce air flow slightly more.
            As the rad will be out im trying to think ahead to cover all possabilitys.
            BEWARE OF THE REAPER

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Grimreeper
              ...As im getting the rad recored i want to get a boss fitted for the temp switch while they have it stripped....
              Consider the water outlet pipe/flange (where the water exits the head) there is already a spot there that just needs drilling and tapping.
              Rhetorical question... If the temp sensor/switch was in the top radiator tank and your coolant level was low, would it operate correctly?

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              • #8
                Hi guys, long time lurker, first time poster.

                I thought I'd throw in my 2c's worth.

                A while back when I was rich and Gordon hadn't taken all my £££, I had a 30 year old V8 Aston which I rebuilt.

                The car also had a viscous fan, which I decided to keep (backup), then I got the rad recored, and installed a 13" Kenlowe (the one with the nasty looking curvy blades).

                The other thing I did is make sure I wired up a manual override, so that if I could see traffic looming ahead say on the motorway, I'd flick the switch(if night time the car lights would dim momentarily), that way the fan was at full tilt BEFORE I hit any standing traffic, and never had any trouble in 5 years.

                If you go this route, make sure you use the relay!

                If you looked closely, you could actually see the temp gauge go down.

                The only minor drawback was the sensor, which was a copper rod type and which you threaded into the top rad hose, which weeped a tiny bit when hot and under pressure.

                Expensive kit, but cheaper than a new engine, and brought great peace of mind.

                Hope this helps.
                1996 3.0 diesel SSR-G Auto

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